Tie Rod and Ball Jt. Recommendations/Advice

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Scituate MA
02 Explorer Sport Trac - New to me. 200k.

Needs tie rod and ball joints. I have a mechanic that said he would do it but he installs Moog but if I wanted
to buy my own he would still install but just doesn't guarantee anything which is fair to me.
I would like to get 2-3 years out of it. So do I get the basics or what he recommends?

I found some on 1aauto....

2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac with 2 Piece Passenger Side Upper Control Arm Steering & Suspension Kit 10 Piece Set
Part Number #: 1ASFK02616
$100.95

Product
2002 Ford Explorer Sport Trac 4 Door Front Lower Control Arm with Ball Joint Pair
Part Number #: 1ASFK00081
$139.95

Just chattin here, not sure what to do.
 
12 k ish easy miles per year. I taker pretty slow, 12 miles to work, 12 home then some in town trips and little on weekends.
 
An entire kit for $100? Run away.

Is it 4x4? I would do a rebuild with these parts:

Lower's: Moog K8695T - $22.79 x2

Uppers: Mevotech Terrain Tough CTXK8708T/CTXK80068 Upper control arms - $66.79/$73.79

Outer tie rods:Mevotech Terrain Tough TXES3667 - $20.79 X2

$185 + shipping and tax, if applicable, from RockAuto. These trucks are hard on their front end's, don't go cheap.
 
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My favorite tire shop uses only Moog. My trusted independent mechanic uses OEM or Moog.

I just put an upper ball joint and an outer tie rod end on my Dakota this week. I used Moog. Only one thing bothered me. One used a 7mm zerk and the other an 8mm. I survived.
 
Since Moog's middle of the road and your mechanic already uses them, don't rock the boat.

Those cheap "kits" are good only if you're flipping a car and want to get the rattles out of the front end.
 
I have used some proforged components. They seem very stout!

They make them for your sport trac in tie rods and ball joints.
 
I've given up on Mevotech. Fifty thousand miles later Goodyear would not do an alignment due to a bad inner tie rod and a lower ball joint, (opposite sides). Both were Mevotechs. I took the truck home, put the front on stands and yes, there was obvious movement.
 
Originally Posted by Warstud
Originally Posted by 14Accent
An entire kit for $100? Run away.


1aauto parts are junk

Great videos. Then buy OEM, Moog, or other quality parts.
 
If I recall, Proforge used a sealed design instead of the Moog's greasable. Contrary to most beliefs, a sealed design (which is what all OEMs use now) with a polished ball + teflon retainer is usually better for normal driving than the old school greasable metal ball + metal socket design. In theory, for heavy duty applications and if you regularly greased the joint, then the grease-able design is better, but the average consumer does not regularly service these like that.
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
I have used some proforged components. They seem very stout!

They make them for your sport trac in tie rods and ball joints.


The more I use them the more I like them. They have a much better finish and better boots than Moog and so far every one of the parts is holding up with no issues.
For complete LCA assemblies OE only.
 
Originally Posted by nobb
If I recall, Proforge used a sealed design instead of the Moog's greasable. Contrary to most beliefs, a sealed design (which is what all OEMs use now) with a polished ball + teflon retainer is usually better for normal driving than the old school greasable metal ball + metal socket design. In theory, for heavy duty applications and if you regularly greased the joint, then the grease-able design is better, but the average consumer does not regularly service these like that.


You still have some people that believe these joints are better and will live longer because of the grease fitting. They seem to forget that years ago when Moog was still Moog and LOF (Lube, Oil, Filter) was the norm every 3K we still replaced lots and lots of worn out joints.
 
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