Thoughts on this exhaust repair?
- Thread starter JHZR2
- Start date
Although it looks like OPs mechanic did the job with universal flanges and some exhaust stubs, it turns out you can get a complete kit with everything you need... except the RTV. 
Of note, if you pick a size that will slip fit over what you've got, you could assemble this with just a sawzall and muffler clamps, though I always find clamps leak a little.
And the welds look better, too.
Of note, if you pick a size that will slip fit over what you've got, you could assemble this with just a sawzall and muffler clamps, though I always find clamps leak a little.And the welds look better, too.
I did almost the same repair when the flanges rotted away yet the OE pipe was still in decent shape for a 20 year old Corolla. I elected to cut off the flanges and to weld the slip joints with a section of exhaust repair piping purchased at Autozone. Luckily there was a perfect diameter tubing where I didn’t need an expander. It was a repair and had no long term expectations and lasted 2 years before the “new” repair tubing was rusting more so than the original exhaust pipe. Your repair is good enough to get you likely just 2-3 more years too.
Looks good to me. If it doesn't leak and is quiet. Hardware is fine. The neck down isn't going to make a difference. It's a 2009 ml. Drive it and forget about it.
Guys are nitpicking. It's an exhaust "patch" on a 17 year old vehicle. Looks fine. I'd love to see some of the people here who are so good and pointing out things that they think should be better actually go out and do it themselves. If it doesn't leak, it's good. If the OP isn't happy, go spend the $ on OE exhaust and replace everything that is needed.
JHZR2
Staff member
It occurred to me to try something like this. The potential for leaks bothered me because I didn’t want diesel exhaust recirculating into the passenger compartment. Even though it’s beneath the car, it’s not coming out the back…Although it looks like OPs mechanic did the job with universal flanges and some exhaust stubs, it turns out you can get a complete kit with everything you need... except the RTV.
And the welds look better, too.
The photo area I circled looks like a hole, and the bead heading the other direction, but like I said it could have been the photo angle. There is also evidence of undercut.
JHZR2
Staff member
Here it is from the other side. Lighting wasn’t great for a quality photo.
I think it’s just a bit of excess from whatever feeder they used in the welding. Otherwise fine.
No black streaks yet at least.
Will look and get better shots when I have time and it’s not raining.
I think they did well on a reasonable price and followed your instructions to weld a flange.
Looks good to me. There is plenty of heat penetration in the steel so its structurally sound, and if it doesn't leak then it was done right. Welding thin walled pipe is not as easy as it looks, its real easy to burn holes through it.
Looks fine. Welding could have been better. That's plain exhaust pipe. It will rust. Get a can of 2000 degree exhaust/header spray paint and spray it black. Keep it from rusting out. Read the directions on the can. There's a procedure to follow to properly cure the paint.
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- Jul 10, 2022
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Imho as long as it’s not leaking, $200 is a great price and if it needed to be done again 2 years from now, $400 is still ahead of the game. We paid $270 in 2025 to have a rusted leaking flange repaired on a 2011 Buick Enclave. I learned from that vehicle the days of replacing a muffler or a resonator are long gone. OE is one piece from the cat back ie $2000+ (fake dual exhaust one day bites the owner lol). The muffler also had a hole and I bought a $47 Walker knowing direct fit meant fabrication. Quality also bugged me (weep hole on the wrong side). Never got around to getting it installed. OE was simply cost prohibitive.
Again it’s a great price to be back on the road. When and if it had to be done again, no biggie.
Again it’s a great price to be back on the road. When and if it had to be done again, no biggie.
JHZR2
Staff member
I was looking at those paints. They need 2000 degree primer too.
I wonder if just applying the primer would be enough?
I’ve seen better welding - but since it fits, doesn’t leak, and works, the weld quality really doesn’t matter.
JHZR2
Staff member
Yeah, the weld quality doesn’t really matter - nobody is going to see it besides me.
It was really the necking down that concerned me.
