Thoughts On PP High Mileage Synthetic ?

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The wife's 2007 Kia Sedona (3.8L V6) just turned 210K miles and is starting a small drip underneath the engine on the garage floor , so time to explore a high mileage synthetic (currently rotate between 5W30 M1 , PP , Valvoline) . The vehicle has had synthetic 5W20 / 5W30 after about the 25K mile mark with 6K mile / 6 month OCI's . Here are my thoughts : The M1 5W30 is a "heavy" 5W30 (12.1) but with good cleaning and decent protection . The Valvoline with Max Life is a good high mileage oil but I'm not fond of the high NOACK of 13% . So that leaves me with PP 5W30 High Mileage oil : I'm not sure about the cleaning ability (as compared to M1 and Valvoline) but the sealant should be good as well as the protection and with a low NOACK ... Your thoughts and experiences with PP 5W30 High Mileage synthetic oil ?
 
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Fix the leak? If your lucky, and probably the case, it's valve cover gaskets and cam seals. Seems like most Asian engines I come across leak at the mentioned sources at around 200k. My 4Runner included...
 
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Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Fix the leak? If your lucky, and probably the case, it's valve cover gaskets and cam seals. Seems like most Asian engines I come across leak at the mentioned sources at around 200k. My 4Runner included...
That's awesome service for a VC gasket, I'm sure at least half the cars on the road have a leaky VC.
 
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pbm

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I just picked up PP 10w30 HM synthetic for 95 cents a quart at AA.....Check your local AA...
 
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On that particular engine, the leak is likely either the front valve cover at the T-joint right above the alternator, which is a very easy fix... you will know because the alternator will be soaked in oil. Or... the back side of the timing cover, nearest the firewall. Not so easy of a fix. To fix the timing cover, intake manifold, valve covers, and oil pan must come off. I got paid 15 hours to do this repair at Kia. Lots of labor cost. I'd also like to add, seal conditioners will not slow or stop leaks at static RTV seals. They only work on neoprene or silicone lip seals. These are dynamic seals that seal against round, spinning machines parts, such as camshafts and crank shafts. Maybe you can take a look around the alternator area (front passenger side, near the core support/radiator) and post back? And if you have the means to jack the van up and take a look at the timing cover through the rear of the passenger side wheel opening, that would be good too. That's where you would see the timing cover leaking. Good luck.
 
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ChrisD46

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Originally Posted by dave1251
Unless it's consuming oil there is no reason to go thicker. If that helps.
*No oil consumption what so ever on the engine !
 

ChrisD46

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Originally Posted by JohnnyJohnson
Pennzoil 5w-30 HM is currently on sale at Walmart for $22.68 and Pennzoil currently has a $10 rebate.
*I picked it up at WM for that same price but did not know about the rebate - thanks !
 

ChrisD46

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Originally Posted by dubber09
You can go with 10w-30 HM oil in GA, why 5w-20/30?
*I could use 110W30 but where I live does get down into the mid to high teens (F) and the cross over point where 5W starts to provide faster start up circulation than 10W happens I believe around 23 degrees (F) . Yes , I'm splitting hairs here but have used 10W in the Summer and it's just fine .
 

ChrisD46

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Originally Posted by 69Torino
On that particular engine, the leak is likely either the front valve cover at the T-joint right above the alternator, which is a very easy fix... you will know because the alternator will be soaked in oil. Or... the back side of the timing cover, nearest the firewall. Not so easy of a fix. To fix the timing cover, intake manifold, valve covers, and oil pan must come off. I got paid 15 hours to do this repair at Kia. Lots of labor cost. I'd also like to add, seal conditioners will not slow or stop leaks at static RTV seals. They only work on neoprene or silicone lip seals. These are dynamic seals that seal against round, spinning machines parts, such as camshafts and crank shafts. Maybe you can take a look around the alternator area (front passenger side, near the core support/radiator) and post back? And if you have the means to jack the van up and take a look at the timing cover through the rear of the passenger side wheel opening, that would be good too. That's where you would see the timing cover leaking. Good luck.
*69Torino - thanks for the detailed comments - I'll be under this Sedona soon so I'll specifically check what you said . Also , any truth that this engine has "small oil passages" thus 5W30 doesn't flow as well as 5W20 in this engine ? 5W30 seems quieter in this engine (far less metallic sounding than when running 5W20) .
 
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Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*69Torino - thanks for the detailed comments - I'll be under this Sedona soon so I'll specifically check what you said . Also , any truth that this engine has "small oil passages" thus 5W30 doesn't flow as well as 5W20 in this engine ? 5W30 seems quieter in this engine (far less metallic sounding than when running 5W20) .
No. KIA is quick to recommend heavier grades for certain service types (like towing or hot weather) and IIRC even lists 40 grades in the manual as suitable. Ours has had everything from 5w20 to 0w40 without the slightest perceptible difference, and has been run predominately on 30's since we got it at 15k. Quietest start ups were on Magnatec 5w30. If full syn Magnatec 10w30 were available I would have used that instead. Have the PPHM 10w30 in now and very quiet running as you'd expect.
 

ChrisD46

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*Good Information KCJeep !
Originally Posted by KCJeep
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*69Torino - thanks for the detailed comments - I'll be under this Sedona soon so I'll specifically check what you said . Also , any truth that this engine has "small oil passages" thus 5W30 doesn't flow as well as 5W20 in this engine ? 5W30 seems quieter in this engine (far less metallic sounding than when running 5W20) .
No. KIA is quick to recommend heavier grades for certain service types (like towing or hot weather) and IIRC even lists 40 grades in the manual as suitable. Ours has had everything from 5w20 to 0w40 without the slightest perceptible difference, and has been run predominately on 30's since we got it at 15k. Quietest start ups were on Magnatec 5w30. If full syn Magnatec 10w30 were available I would have used that instead. Have the PPHM 10w30 in now and very quiet running as you'd expect.
 
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Originally Posted by KCJeep
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*69Torino - thanks for the detailed comments - I'll be under this Sedona soon so I'll specifically check what you said . Also , any truth that this engine has "small oil passages" thus 5W30 doesn't flow as well as 5W20 in this engine ? 5W30 seems quieter in this engine (far less metallic sounding than when running 5W20) .
No. KIA is quick to recommend heavier grades for certain service types (like towing or hot weather) and IIRC even lists 40 grades in the manual as suitable. Ours has had everything from 5w20 to 0w40 without the slightest perceptible difference, and has been run predominately on 30's since we got it at 15k. Quietest start ups were on Magnatec 5w30. If full syn Magnatec 10w30 were available I would have used that instead. Have the PPHM 10w30 in now and very quiet running as you'd expect.
Is full syn magnatec 10w30 new? My WM has it but you have to order it via website.

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