Thoughts on my Delphi Compressor???

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JHZR2

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Vehicle is a 98 S-10 4x4 ZR2. Pretty simple by modern standards. Has really great and cold AC. It doesn't get used a ton, and it sits outside for maybe half the year. So the aluminum parts seem to have some basic corrosion. I think this may be different or may be related. Note the oily residue around both ends of the cylindrical part of the compressor. Im not sure which model compressor this is, and how those spots relate to working parts, but it must. The connections where the lines mount to the compressor are completely clean and dry. The odd thing is that in the trough beneath the compressor, there is a lot of fine sand - or perhaps it is not sand but rather the corroded aluminum flaking off... But it is oily too. Any thoughts on this? A year ago the refrigerant got dangerously low because the pressure switch on the accumulator lost its seal. I replaced it and added some to get an acceptable, if low, pressure, and the air blows cold and the compressor cycles nicely. The system has never had any issues. It only has 66k miles. Any idea if I should be worried about this? Thanks!
 
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The oil is a sign of refrigerant seepage-eventually you'll need a new compressor. Weird to see it leak in the middle like that, must be a seam or o-ring there.
 
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Good crimany sakes things get corroded bad back there. I couldn't stand it - I'd be taking the car apart every weekend to clean it. Out here in California, the parts still like look new when that quit working.
 
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Your compressor is a Harrison/Delphi HT6, Known "belly leakers" The O-ring between the case halves leak. Special mounting procedures are required when replacing an HT6, The compressor needs to sit perfectly flat on the mounting surface. Sanden has a replacement that is far superior to the HT6.
 

JHZR2

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Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Your compressor is a Harrison/Delphi HT6, Known "belly leakers" The O-ring between the case halves leak. Special mounting procedures are required when replacing an HT6, The compressor needs to sit perfectly flat on the mounting surface. Sanden has a replacement that is far superior to the HT6.
Could you expand on this a bit more? Both the sanden and the mounting surface for the HT6? Why does the sitting flat aspect matter? Does the mounting approach somehow affect the seal? Perhaps ill have the system evacuated and either DIY re-seal (can it be done? The compressor works perfect), or replace with another HT6 or the sanden. I have R134a and a good vacuum pump. The thing I don't have is time... Thanks!
 
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Is the sanden compressor what they call the hybrid compressor ? I was told there is one that's a ford style that doesn't leak like that
 
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: clinebarger
Your compressor is a Harrison/Delphi HT6, Known "belly leakers" The O-ring between the case halves leak. Special mounting procedures are required when replacing an HT6, The compressor needs to sit perfectly flat on the mounting surface. Sanden has a replacement that is far superior to the HT6.
Could you expand on this a bit more? Both the sanden and the mounting surface for the HT6? Why does the sitting flat aspect matter? Does the mounting approach somehow affect the seal? Thanks!
The compressor body has 4 pieces. If its not sitting perfect on the bracket it will twist the O-rings and cause a leak. Rebuilding or resealing them is useless as they get corrosion where the seals are. Once corroded they never seal again. Just plan on a new 1 piece one sometime.
 

JHZR2

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So then do I order an HT6 or some other designation? Is it sanden or some other version?
 
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[quote=JD4440]Is the sanden compressor what they call the hybrid compressor ? I was told there is one that's a ford style that doesn't leak like that [/quote Your user name includes the Sanden part# of the compressor we are discussing..LOL. Ford compressors have a center seal like the HT6 leaker, But are not known to leak in that area.
 
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I have been successfully resealing a/c compressors for many years. A/C repairs are my speciality in hot humid Florida. I have resealed many GM HT6 and GM V5 compressors over the years. GM compressor case housing O-rings have always been leak prone just like Mopar evaporators are leak prone. I have also been selling HT6 gaskets kits among others on Ebay. Resealing compressors is not that hard and many DIYers have successfully done it too.
 
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The bearing in the front of mine is noisy. For what Sanden wants for a compressor I'm not sure its sorth rebuilding one that's prone to leaking again. Question is, is any one orifice tube , ect better than the other?
 
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JHZR2

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I need to follow up on this. I don't use my truck a whole lot and The air conditioning was running until it got really cold. This may be a dumb question but do shops typically work on air conditioning in the extreme cold? What I mean is am I better off waiting until the weather is warmer so that the actual air conditioner system functionality can be tested? It seems to me that if it's 10° out the best they can do is install refrigerant by mass and hope that I don't come back in the summer. I'm going to plan to get the Sanden compressor, A new receiver dryer, New O-rings, and I suppose I should get a new bottle of the specific GM or Sanden oil. Who drives the specification at this point if I'm replacing parts sending or the original GM spec that came with my truck, in terms of the oil that I should use for replacement? Thanks!
 
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