This will drive you maintenance guys nuts
- Thread starter Pitbull
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Raise the car level...either a lift or jackstands under both ends. Find the transmission drain plug (do not remove) then find the transmission standpipe plug. Remove the standpipe plug and the ATF should be at the top of the standpipe. I've been told by Red Line that their D4 ATF is good for VW/Audi and Volvo transmissions that do not take Dexron-III.quote:
Originally posted by RH+G:
VW and Audis dont have dipsticks either. Lifetime fluidChecking them without the proper tool mskes it impossible to get a right reading
http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/auto_transmission/autotranservicing.html
VW claims that this is lifetime fluid. I'd like to take a sample at, say, 40,000 miles, 80,000 miles, etc. If the lab says that the stuff is kaput, get the fluid changed at the dealership then sue in small claims court on the basis that their "lifetime" fluid didn't last me a lifetime. Or was it good for the lifetime of the fluid?
Ken
[ April 08, 2004, 01:18 AM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
Both my Jeeps have drain plugs on everything..T cases,tranny,axles..and the manual TELLS you to drain & fill the stuff under severe usage ie. snow-ploughing,off-roading,delivery etc.Changing fluids on my Jeeps is actually enjoyment to me...people think I'm sick but you guys understand...If I owned a Toyota I would change out the fluids anyway...would'nt be as fun though
Someone above mentioned that the theory is ATF should last 100k or 200k if it doesn't get overheated. This new concept to me implies if you find yourself with one of these dipless cars or trucks, you should invest in a transmission temperature gauge. Otherwise, how will you know when the trans has overheated and cooked the ATF? Towing isn't the only driving that may overheat the trans. For example, vacation driving when fully loaded with people and luggage in the mountains. Now that poses another problem- where are you going to install the sender? I guess the best answer is the oil cooler lines.
GM's new 2004 ATF spec, Dexron-III(H) is claimed by GM to be good for 100,000 miles in normal driving and 50,000 in severe driving, although they may raise that to 100k when they get more experience with it. This new Dexron will be on the retail shelves soon...it's factory fill in GM cars. The main advantage of Dexron-III(H) over the current -III(G) is the longer service life.
Ken
Ken
Both the Mazda 6i and Mazda 6s have 100k mile service intervals for their Automatics.
The 6i and 6s both require Mercon V fluid, with the 6i's tranny coming from the 4 Speed Auto Protege, and the 6s 5 Speed Auto coming from the Jatco line (which also sits in the maxima).
Yesterday we were finally able to hook a WDS (fancy dealer machine) and get atf temp readings from the stock sensors embedded in the tranny.
At idle...in park...the transmission was at 193F.
Now you tell me how thats supposed to last 100k miles, when the **** thing is already at 193F at idle. (Btw there has already been 1 6i ATX failure (fluid was black and burnt when removed), and multiple 6s ATX failures (no info on fluid)
As you can imagine, every 6s ATX owner just ordered B&M coolers.
[ April 09, 2004, 07:33 AM: Message edited by: crossbow ]
The 6i and 6s both require Mercon V fluid, with the 6i's tranny coming from the 4 Speed Auto Protege, and the 6s 5 Speed Auto coming from the Jatco line (which also sits in the maxima).
Yesterday we were finally able to hook a WDS (fancy dealer machine) and get atf temp readings from the stock sensors embedded in the tranny.
At idle...in park...the transmission was at 193F.
Now you tell me how thats supposed to last 100k miles, when the **** thing is already at 193F at idle. (Btw there has already been 1 6i ATX failure (fluid was black and burnt when removed), and multiple 6s ATX failures (no info on fluid)
As you can imagine, every 6s ATX owner just ordered B&M coolers.
[ April 09, 2004, 07:33 AM: Message edited by: crossbow ]
"Someone above mentioned that the theory is ATF should last 100k or 200k if it doesn't get overheated. This new concept to me implies if you find yourself with one of these dipless cars or trucks, you should invest in a transmission temperature gauge. Otherwise, how will you know when the trans has overheated and cooked the ATF? Towing isn't the only driving that may overheat the trans. For example, vacation driving when fully loaded with people and luggage in the mountains. Now that poses another problem- where are you going to install the sender? I guess the best answer is the oil cooler lines."
My Isuzu has "AT Temp Light" on dashbord kind of similar to CEL and I think there is a temp sensor somethere around trans. How good it work I don't know.
My Isuzu has "AT Temp Light" on dashbord kind of similar to CEL and I think there is a temp sensor somethere around trans. How good it work I don't know.
The ATF high temp sensor on our Volvos is located immediately in the output line from the tranny.
DEWFPO
DEWFPO
The factory service/repair manual for our Volvos also say to replace the ATF if the temp reaches 284F. Well how the heck would you know without a gauge?
Also, the ATF level at 212F should be smack in the middle of the HOT zone on the little 10 inch dip stick (the one your not supposed to need).
DEWFPO
Also, the ATF level at 212F should be smack in the middle of the HOT zone on the little 10 inch dip stick (the one your not supposed to need).
DEWFPO
My wife's 528i has the GM A4S 270R transmission, which was also used in the Catera, Trooper, and numerous Opels and Vauxhalls. BMW originally said that the OEM Dexron III was a lifetime fill but has recently began calling for 100000 mi. change intervals. At 99500 mi. I had the local dealer change both the transmission and final drive fluid. The total cost was $109 and that included using BMW's Castrol synthetic in the diff. 3000 miles later the transmission is still operating perfectly, though I will probably start having it changed at 50000 mi. intervals since the dealer's cost is so reasonable.
I just changed the trans fluid in a 2003 Camry SE, with the 5spd manual, that had been driven 20000 hard miles ( in less than a year) by a serious lead-footed female. The OEM stuff was trashed, and no way would it have made it to the 60000 mile pm that Toyota recommends.
Did you check your owners manual for type of fluid Toyota says to use? My 2004 4runner V8 with the new 5speed auto uses WS ATF fluid (World Standard) it is not compatible with Type-IV ATF fluid. The new WS was introduced last August in the 4runners/Landcruisers/Lexus LX470 and GX470 and is a lifetime fluid for normal use and requires service if you tow at a 60K mile interval.
Absolutely yes, 150% certain it's a Type-IV car. It's in about six places in the manual. I used to fly jets in the Marines. I don't operate machines, including my cars, without reading, and knowing, the published manuals. . .
My question still stands. Anyone know about Type-IV? The bottle says "contains petroleum" but dealer tech says syn. What is this stuff???
I was talking to the parts guy at the local Toyota dealership yesterday. He stated that both the Type IV and the WS ATF fluids were synthetic. Like you said I would just follow the owners manual on change interval. By the way since you were a Jet pilot, how are though hemorrhoids
Semper Fi from a Grunt.
Question for you Toyota/Lexus guys: How much are the dealers charging you for the Type T-IV ATF?
My S40 uses the same stuff, JWS-3309 spec, and I'm wanting to change my fluid soon. Volvo dealers want 15-20 bucks for a quart of this stuff.
My S40 uses the same stuff, JWS-3309 spec, and I'm wanting to change my fluid soon. Volvo dealers want 15-20 bucks for a quart of this stuff.
The Amsoil won't work with the 2004 5speed automatics that use the WS ATF. I would also be real careful about using what Amsoil recommends without checking with the manufacture. I know when I had a Dodge 1ton with the 6speed manual transmission that Amsoil recommended using their 5-30 synthetic engine oil in the transmission and the manufacture said your warranty would be void if you did. I think Amsoil makes some good products but I think they get carried away with what they think some of it is capable of doing. Since their sales force is a multi-level marketing set-up they get a lot of cheerleaders pushing the product. I would use their synthetic motor oil in my engine. JMHO
The infamous g-induced 'roids were less of an issue in the Prowler community than they are for the Hornet and Harrier guys. For us, no more of a problem than trench foot for a modern grunt. . .quote:
Originally posted by Pitbull:
I was talking to the parts guy at the local Toyota dealership yesterday. He stated that both the Type IV and the WS ATF fluids were synthetic. Like you said I would just follow the owners manual on change interval. By the way since you were a Jet pilot, how are though hemorrhoidsSemper Fi from a Grunt.
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