M1 and Amsoil both make a 0w-30 toocrazy...
This site is vast! Need some peace of mind, please
- Thread starter Wired 24/7
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ooop...dually
Gotcha..tx!
Mike, your habits include hard driving. You asked if Pennzoil is a good high performance oil.
There are NO "high-performance" dino oils. Seriously...think about it. None, zero. For hard driving, I would never recommend dino for anyone. True, your manual says "only use non-synth oils". But the manual doesn't expect you to run to redline several times per day, does it??
Plus does the Nissan disclaimer refer to group III "synths" or group IV PAO's? One is made from dino, one is not. At the VERY least, I would use some Group III oil rather than dino seeing as redline is the goal. Since you mention Pennzoil....Pennzoil's synth is a group III+.
Sorry, I can't recommend dino oil where the engine goes to redline frequently, no matter what brand is on the bottle.
Group III "synths" that would still be "dino" oils:
Castrol Syntec (not 0w-30)
Quaker State
Pennzoil regular synth (if available)
WalMart Supertech "full" synth
I know I'm all late with this, but, there's something you need to know about good ol' Clyde there. He's THE biggest Valvoline Maxlife fanatic on this board, and he will recommend that for ANY person seeking oil advice...
If you want to stick with the Nissan suggested mineral based oil I would also stay with their recommendation of 3750 OCIs.
If you want to continue to run 5000 mile plus OCIs consider a synthetic blend or full synthetic.
Have you considered a UOA on the oil you are running now?
If you want to continue to run 5000 mile plus OCIs consider a synthetic blend or full synthetic.
Have you considered a UOA on the oil you are running now?
It is somewhere there, about how the XL series was converted to a Group III from a Group IV/V oil. You have probably encountered some of those Group names in your browsing. Group III as you may know by now is (I'll keep it simple) treated petroleum oil, this treatment makes an oil that some purists don't call "synthetic", so natch this sets off some arguments. Castrol Syntec is an example.
Bottom line with Amsoil - they wanted an oil that ws slightly lower cost than a Grp IV syn. and with full API for marketing purposes. This oil has consistently produced excellent UOA's and is rated for 7500 miles.
Originally posted by Wired 24/7:
Maxlife 10W-40 is the thinnest 10W-40 on the market and just so happens to be an excellent oil to boot.
The reason I mentioned MaxLife is because it is a thin 10W-40 being 13.9 cSt @ 100C. Most of your 10W-40's are in the 15 to 16 range. Also, some engines just prefer a heavier oil apart from from whatever the ambient temperature is because of their internal clearances.
Maxlife 10W-40 is the thinnest 10W-40 on the market and just so happens to be an excellent oil to boot.
\
Not to bust chops, but the old Pennzoil is GroupIII, the new pennzoil syn is, I believe, Ester, which puts it in Group V, or "other".
Nope, not an ester. It's ethylene-alphaolefin polymer, EOP. Some say group V because thats where everything else which doesn't fit in groups I-IV goes. Others say it's a group III+.
Additional links on pz platinum, in an attempt to keep this thread on topic.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=013814
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=012645
Additional links on pz platinum, in an attempt to keep this thread on topic.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=013814
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=012645
W-24/7
Dino ----
I recommend Motorcraft oil! 5W30
Dino ----
I recommend Motorcraft oil! 5W30
I would run whatever the manual recommends by weight and only conventional if that is what is recommended. There is nothing wrong with pennzoil or any of the other big name brands that have been mentioned. There is also plenty of very good oils such as exxon superflo, havoline and others that perform just as good for much less money. Make sure you use a quality filter also. I would guess the oem filter is probably a good one. Others would be wix, napa, mobil 1, and many others. Do a search for some of these oils and you will find all the info you can stand about different oils available.
Since it has been confirmed that these motors like a bit thicker oil, and you track it and run it hard, I'd run a 10w-40 of your choice (especially since 10w-40 is approved in the owner's manual). If it gets super cold, drop that down to 5w-30. I'd also stay at the severe limit on oil change interval of 3750........ahhhhh bump it up to 4,000 and call it good.
For the record, I believe one of the, if not the best UOA posted here from this engine was on 15w-40 Chevron Delo, which would be another good choice.
You may want to mozy over the the Used Oil Analysis section and look at 350Z/G35/Altima/Maxima reports and see which oils and viscosities showed best.
For the record, I believe one of the, if not the best UOA posted here from this engine was on 15w-40 Chevron Delo, which would be another good choice.
You may want to mozy over the the Used Oil Analysis section and look at 350Z/G35/Altima/Maxima reports and see which oils and viscosities showed best.
I have yet to see this confirmed with even rudimentary statistical analysis. If this analysis exist, please point me to it.
Kinda' reminds me of the misguided attempts by DarkDan to have us believe Ford Modulars prefer something other than 5w20. The littlest bit of mathematical analysis blew that house of cards down in an instant.
Do some searching under UOA section under your car or motor such a VQ. If you want to use dino oil change it reasonably often... somewhere around 4K OCI if your running it hard. Latest formulas from Chevron, Mobil, and Castrol seem to do fine for reasonable OCI.
That was big of you Drew. I'd rather have bigamy, but that's another thread.
No problem, Drew99GT. As an engineer, I challenge many assumptions here, especially when I see some data that's contrary to what's accepted as fact.
Sometimes things are as simple as they seem, other times there's a lot more going on under the surface then we're aware of.
Sometimes things are as simple as they seem, other times there's a lot more going on under the surface then we're aware of.
Mike,
If you really think you can't run a synthetic lube in this engine you need to stay in school a bit longer - maybe a lot longer...
Seriously though, I think it would be more accurate to say that the engine doesn't absolutely require a synthetic lube.
I believe it's a good idea to allow the engine to break in for 5k-6k miles before going to synthetic. Do that and you'll rarely if even have oil consumption issues, at least that's been my experience over the past 28 years.
TS
If you really think you can't run a synthetic lube in this engine you need to stay in school a bit longer - maybe a lot longer...
I believe it's a good idea to allow the engine to break in for 5k-6k miles before going to synthetic. Do that and you'll rarely if even have oil consumption issues, at least that's been my experience over the past 28 years.
TS
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