Thinking of trying Havoline Sythnetic 5w40

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The 5w-40 is the only Havoline that meets the A3 spec. What are they charging for it? It's a group III and other then Schaffer's, I'd stay away from Group III's and go all out with M1, Amsoil or Redline.

[ September 30, 2003, 07:37 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
I've used the Havoline 5-40 with excellent results. In fact, the inquiry re: this oil was my first post on the "old" message board (the one with the beige background and Arial font).

Guess they changed the formula since last year to SL. But, I still think it's an excellent product...especially the 5-40. Forget M-1.

Stopped using it when they discontinued the line. Now, I just don't see it on the shelves anywhere...nor any synth. 5-40's for that matter. In any case...go for it...
 
The specs are impressive...I'd say go for it. The price is outstanding. FWIW, I think Havoline has been a "sleeper" for a long time. I can remember when Havoline Synthetic 5W40 (pre-Chevron) was the only 40W to get the Starburst. I'm guessing the association with Chevron will only improve the product even more.


Dr T, why are you so anti-Mobil 1?

[ September 30, 2003, 10:16 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
 
Is Havoline anything other than just another brand name? We don't know who determined the formula of the oil when it was made by the Equillon Shell/Texaco joint venture, and now things are completely different under the ownership of ChevronTexaco...not to mention the fact that all oils have been totally changed about every 3 years with each new ILSAC and API spec.


Ken
 
In that viscosity range, maybe Rotella would be a newer formulation and easier to aquire in the future. I like it.
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The product data sheets for both Chevron Supreme and Havoline synthetic 5W-40 read absolutely identically, number for number. The only "exception" is that ChevronTexaco bothered to list the NOACK Volatility for Havoline Synthetic 5W-40, but inexplicably did not for Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5W-40. (oversight?) Of at least equal interest to oil heads are the respective Material Safety Data Sheets. The sheets read identically except for identifying names and catalog numbers. Both oils list the same CAS numbers for the base stocks. These oils may be PAOs (listed first - any significance?) or IsoSyn Group IIIs. Probably depending on availabilty but, the "or" confirms it won't be a blend. I find no reason to believe these two brands in the 5W-40 viscosity are anything but one and the same product under different labeling. If you find 'em both, go for price.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:

Stopped using it when they discontinued the line. Now, I just don't see it on the shelves anywhere...nor any synth. 5-40's for that matter. In any case...go for it...


I used to see this oil at Walmart a lot in the past, but it disappeared a year or so, such a shame, I might have considered giving it a try too.
 
quote:

I used to see this oil at Walmart a lot in the past, but it disappeared a year or so, such a shame, I might have considered giving it a try too.

At that price, I might too in the Volvo. I'll see if my local Advanced autoparts has it.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:

quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:

Stopped using it when they discontinued the line. Now, I just don't see it on the shelves anywhere...nor any synth. 5-40's for that matter. In any case...go for it...


I used to see this oil at Walmart a lot in the past, but it disappeared a year or so, such a shame, I might have considered giving it a try too.


I never really considered this oil, but early this summer my local wally-world discounted what they had - 3lt 5W40 + 1lt of 5W30 - for 1 dollar each-. I cleaned them out. Got the oil lined up for my new lawn mower and pressure washer.
Jean

[ October 01, 2003, 09:46 AM: Message edited by: 2K2AcuraTL ]
 
Thanks guys for the comments about the oil.

Any comments about using it in the engine I'd like to try it in. I'm a little leery about useing a 40wt in it since it is such a new engine with relatively few miles on it and GM recommending no heavier than a 10w30 for it.

Particularly this is what concerns me (namely the oil being too heavy):
Havoline dino 10w30 = 73.5cSt@40deg, 10.8cSt@100deg
Havoline 5w40 synth = 87.7cSt@40deg, 13.7cSt@100deg
Mobil 1 5w30 (which is in the engine right now) = 56cSt@40deg, 10cSt@100deg

I also live where we typically see anywhere from below 10 to above 20deg F range for an average temp on a "cold" winter day. Perhaps the 5w40 is something I should only run during spring to early fall.
 
GM's recommendations are B.S. in N.A. because they are based on CAFE regulations.

Rest assured, you can use a 5-40 in your GM 3.1L whatever the age. In fact, you will keep it running better. I wouldn't wait until you start consuming oil...I think this is a wrong concept. And you can run it all year...as it will flow in the same range as a 5-30...ie. they're both 5 weights.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Dr. T:
GM's recommendations are B.S. in N.A. because they are based on CAFE regulations.

Rest assured, you can use a 5-40 in your GM 3.1L whatever the age. In fact, you will keep it running better. I wouldn't wait until you start consuming oil...I think this is a wrong concept. And you can run it all year...as it will flow in the same range as a 5-30...ie. they're both 5 weights.


Even though they are both 5w oils, I wouldn't be surprised if in most cases a 5w40 oil will not have as good of a cold cranking number as a 5w30 oil. I bet a lot of the 5w40 oils just barely meet the requirements to pass as a 5w, so it could be right on the line of being a 10w, and after being in the engine for a short while it would turn into a 10w40, then eventually a 10w30 too.

This is one thing many people tend to forget when picking a winter oil, is that not all 5w oils are created equal, and in many cases they will thicken up on the cold side of things (in addition to thinning out on the hot end). I especially believe this to be true with 5w30 dino oils for instance, they might be 5w30 when new, but if they were retested 1500-2000 miles later it wouldn't surprise me if most of them became 10w20 oils.
 
Although I agree that a 5-30 may have better starting characteristics than say a 5-50, they are both required to pump (within a certain range) down to -30C. So the 5-30 wins by a couple hundred ccs digits...

Don't know what happens with aging...if that's true about a 5-30 turning into a 10-20, would the 5-50 turn into a 10-40? or even a 15-30?

I'm still waiting to see how the 10-60 does...it was 5C the other night...will keep ya posted.
 
I'm not completely anti-M1 as much as I would like it to be known that there are other synthetic alternatives that are probably just as good...they just come in different flavors.

I say this because IMO M-1 is not all it's coughed-up to be....except we're all looking for a magic bullet here...and there isn't one.
 
Went to my local Advance Auto and they only carry the 10w-30 or 5w-30. They can't order the 5w-40 either. Oh well. Still, at $3.48, it's gotta be one of the cheapest OTC "full synthetics". It's about a buck cheaper than any other group III. Might give the 10w-30 a shot and do an analysis on it. I'd use the 5w-30 but the 10w-30 specs look more impressive. Anybody think 10w-30 is too heavy for Columbus, Ohio (gets down to a minimum of about 0 F, but hovers between 15 to 30 F most of the winter)?
 
Word is.....this winter will be harsh.
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I have always used 5w30 in the winter, but 10w30 would probably work fine. I used to use havoline synthetic 5w30, and it seemed to work OK (didn't do any UOA's though). The supertech GIII synthetic, at walmart, is 2.99 a quart. Or you could use the 5w30 Bobzoil, which is supposedly a GIII/PAO blend, for a good price.

[ October 03, 2003, 03:47 PM: Message edited by: sbc350gearhead ]
 
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