Thinking of switching from M1 oil...

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Originally Posted By: jimmy87
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: Vortec376

My driving style is somewhat agressive. I pass a good bit of people at pretty hard throttle, and run WOT maybe twice a week or so from a start. I always let it idle for maybe 3 minutes tops in the summer, and maybe 5 minutes or so in the winter before leaving to go to or from work. My drive to work is 9 miles one way. I use premium 93 octane fuel at all times, and I haven't been hauling much in the last year, but I will be hauling alot of wood soon if I buy a house I'm looking at.


Unless the engine requires 93, you're wasting your money...


It does! Gm 6.2 requires 93 octane fuel…



^This^ The Compression Ratio is 10.4:1, and the owners manual states that Premium fuel is recommend. 91 is ok to use too, but the station I buy gas at only has 93 so that's what I use.
 
While I was at my local Wal-Mart today I checked on prices. They didn't have any Ultra just Platinum, and no Edge with Titanium just with Syntec.

Pennzoil Platinum - $22.47 for a 5 quart jug and $6.97 per quart

Quaker State Ultimate Durability - $20.97 for a jug and $6.52 per quart

Castrol Edge Syntec - $24.97 for a jug and $6.97 per quart

Mobil 1 Extended Performance - %26.97 for a jug and $7.82 per quart


Looks like price wise it wouldn't hurt to test any of these if I decide to...
 
I like qsud and pp, your truck doesn't have afm so no matter what you should be good to go.
 
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
Anything that's dexos will work for the entire interval suggested by the OLM, including Edge.


This.

With good quality synth in the sump there is no reason to ignore the OLM in any GM V8. It has a proven history here of providing nearly unlimited engine life with any decent synthetic and a good filter.

We have one 6.0 here with nearly a half a million miles on the original 6.0 (virtually an exact match to your 6.2) that does not smoke or use oil and works daily! Always changed from new exactly per the OLM.
 
How is Quaker State now? I was always told that it was trash before, but I've heard some good things about it lately...
 
Originally Posted By: jimmy87
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: Vortec376

My driving style is somewhat agressive. I pass a good bit of people at pretty hard throttle, and run WOT maybe twice a week or so from a start. I always let it idle for maybe 3 minutes tops in the summer, and maybe 5 minutes or so in the winter before leaving to go to or from work. My drive to work is 9 miles one way. I use premium 93 octane fuel at all times, and I haven't been hauling much in the last year, but I will be hauling alot of wood soon if I buy a house I'm looking at.


Unless the engine requires 93, you're wasting your money...


It does! Gm 6.2 requires 93 octane fuel…



Actually 91 but Premium is recommended not required. I also have "the big 8" in my Sierra Denali and what a motor!
 
Originally Posted By: Vortec376
Originally Posted By: RiceCake
The difference in wear between M1 and almost any other oil out there is so negligible that you may as well say there isn't one.

Wear depends on weather, condition of the engine, driving style, fuel quality, how much load you're towing, the type of engine, etc...




I think M1 is a good oil choice for your app. I don't think it's quality has gone down, but other brands have just caught up. Thus, you can also go with other good quality brands (i.e.PP, PY, etc.).

I don't think you need to idle your truck from a cold start for 3-5 min. Just drive off under low rpm's until the engine gets warm enough like 5 min.


My driving style is somewhat agressive. I pass a good bit of people at pretty hard throttle, and run WOT maybe twice a week or so from a start. I always let it idle for maybe 3 minutes tops in the summer, and maybe 5 minutes or so in the winter before leaving to go to or from work. My drive to work is 9 miles one way. I use premium 93 octane fuel at all times, and I haven't been hauling much in the last year, but I will be hauling alot of wood soon if I buy a house I'm looking at.[/quote]

Put quotes wrong. Here's my reply:

I think M1 is a good oil choice for your app. I don't think it's quality has gone down, but other brands have just caught up. Thus, you can also go with other good quality brands (i.e.PP, PY, etc.).

I don't think you need to idle your truck from a cold start for 3-5 min. Just drive off under low rpm. You're just getting blowby from cold idling.
 
Last edited:
Really? Would that cause blow by? I've idled my past two trucks the same way, and neither of them have used any oil. I picked up some Mobil 1 EP oil and Filter today at Advance Auto on sale. It's 15,000 mile oil, but at what mileage would you guys recommend changing it out to send in for an oil analysis?
 
When engine is cold some oil will get past the rings until the rings expand from the heat. This happens mostly on older cars and those that did not get broken in properly - meaning those that consume some oil. The faster your engine heats up, the less oil passes through.

Now, it may be better to let your engine idle a bit after an aggressive drive.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: gregoron
When engine is cold some oil will get past the rings until the rings expand from the heat. This happens mostly on older cars and those that did not get broken in properly - meaning those that consume some oil. The faster your engine heats up, the less oil passes through.

Now, it may be better to let your engine idle a bit after an aggressive drive.



Ok that makes sense. The past few nights at wok I've been letting it run just long enough to idle down, and then I take off. I'll just keep doing this from now on especially since it's pretty warm out now anyhow.
 
Originally Posted By: Vortec376

Really? Would that cause blow by? I've idled my past two trucks the same way, and neither of them have used any oil. I picked up some Mobil 1 EP oil and Filter today at Advance Auto on sale. It's 15,000 mile oil, but at what mileage would you guys recommend changing it out to send in for an oil analysis?


Blow-by can be combustion gasses that get by the rings at start up while the piston is a bit looser in the cylinder,oil can also get by the rings at this time.
As far as analysis I'd check it at 10000. Then once you get the results you can fine tune the interval based on blackstone's comments.
Not much point in checking any sooner simply because the oil life projection will be a little more accurate if tested later in the interval.
Just my opinion.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Vortec376

Really? Would that cause blow by? I've idled my past two trucks the same way, and neither of them have used any oil. I picked up some Mobil 1 EP oil and Filter today at Advance Auto on sale. It's 15,000 mile oil, but at what mileage would you guys recommend changing it out to send in for an oil analysis?


Blow-by can be combustion gasses that get by the rings at start up while the piston is a bit looser in the cylinder,oil can also get by the rings at this time.
As far as analysis I'd check it at 10000. Then once you get the results you can fine tune the interval based on blackstone's comments.
Not much point in checking any sooner simply because the oil life projection will be a little more accurate if tested later in the interval.
Just my opinion.



Exactly what I was thinking. That will give me a good safe 5,000 miles from the max mileage the oil is rated for just in case, but I think I'll be able to run it longer after I get an analysis done.
 
Originally Posted By: Vortec376
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Vortec376

Really? Would that cause blow by? I've idled my past two trucks the same way, and neither of them have used any oil. I picked up some Mobil 1 EP oil and Filter today at Advance Auto on sale. It's 15,000 mile oil, but at what mileage would you guys recommend changing it out to send in for an oil analysis?


Blow-by can be combustion gasses that get by the rings at start up while the piston is a bit looser in the cylinder,oil can also get by the rings at this time.
As far as analysis I'd check it at 10000. Then once you get the results you can fine tune the interval based on blackstone's comments.
Not much point in checking any sooner simply because the oil life projection will be a little more accurate if tested later in the interval.
Just my opinion.



Exactly what I was thinking. That will give me a good safe 5,000 miles from the max mileage the oil is rated for just in case, but I think I'll be able to run it longer after I get an analysis done.


M1 EP has always shown well here from the uoa I've seen here. I'm not sure if I've seen it stretched out to the entire 15000 miles but that's not due to the oil being depleted.
I'm interested in seeing how far it can go in your truck.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Vortec376
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Vortec376

Really? Would that cause blow by? I've idled my past two trucks the same way, and neither of them have used any oil. I picked up some Mobil 1 EP oil and Filter today at Advance Auto on sale. It's 15,000 mile oil, but at what mileage would you guys recommend changing it out to send in for an oil analysis?


Blow-by can be combustion gasses that get by the rings at start up while the piston is a bit looser in the cylinder,oil can also get by the rings at this time.
As far as analysis I'd check it at 10000. Then once you get the results you can fine tune the interval based on blackstone's comments.
Not much point in checking any sooner simply because the oil life projection will be a little more accurate if tested later in the interval.
Just my opinion.



Exactly what I was thinking. That will give me a good safe 5,000 miles from the max mileage the oil is rated for just in case, but I think I'll be able to run it longer after I get an analysis done.


M1 EP has always shown well here from the uoa I've seen here. I'm not sure if I've seen it stretched out to the entire 15000 miles but that's not due to the oil being depleted.
I'm interested in seeing how far it can go in your truck.



I am too. I really like Mobil's oil. I've never had any trouble with it using any in 3 different trucks, and their engines ran quiet too.
 
I'm not a Mobil fan at all. In fact I'd rather buy anything other than Mobil however if the price is right I won't shun it completely.
I like the M1 0w-40. That stuff has shown worldwide that its great in just about every possible application,and is probably the go to oil in almost any application.
But I don't think they make a sub par product. It's as good as anything else in its price range. I'd just rather spend my money elsewhere.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
I'm not a Mobil fan at all. In fact I'd rather buy anything other than Mobil however if the price is right I won't shun it completely.
I like the M1 0w-40. That stuff has shown worldwide that its great in just about every possible application,and is probably the go to oil in almost any application.
But I don't think they make a sub par product. It's as good as anything else in its price range. I'd just rather spend my money elsewhere.



Nothing wrong with that. I've also used Valvoline, and Castrol, and I liked them just as much. Castrol seems to have great cleaning ability, and Valvoline seems to be pretty good also. I've also used Royal Purple in my Yamaha Raptor I used to have, and it seemed to quiet the engine down a good bit, and the gears shifted a lot smoother. I started using Mobil 1 once I bought my first new truck because I felt it was the best, but I guess now it's just as good as most others.
 
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