Thinking about buying this 2004 Ohio Suburban, opinions?

[pacem]

The good, the bad, the ugly:

148K miles on 5.3L, 6390 engine hours, which seems like it was idled a lot (or is that number normal for an 18-year old vehicle?)
I test drove, nothing obvious was wrong other than the fact it is a it's a rust bucket. The pass side window is off the rails, the driver's side door is mismatched.

Z41 package seems to work well, 4WD high and low. Engine is smooth, AC works, new fuel pump. I get it's a disposable parts car.

The asking price is $2500, is that a viable deal or run away? I see 2004-2005 Suburbans in great condition sell for over $5K. Even a lot higher than 5K.

 

[JohnnyG]

Not for me, too much rust.

 

[meep]

In this day, provided the driveline is happy, that’s a full-size running 4wd for next to nothing, the price of two bathroom sinks. It really depends on structural rust. I’ve seen two of these make it to the 225s before they start really nickel and diming. BUT, it’s hard to know if there are bandaids like transmission fix fluids and extra heavy engine oils covering things up. How is the underside? If it’s ok, I’d be inclined to say to go for it, not a lot to lose for the price. OTOH, if the frame looks like the sheet metal, run away.

 

[FowVay]

If you're in a position to do such a maneuver then buy it and part it out. There are some good items on there that will give you a decent return on your investment. The vehicle is junk as a whole but the value of the parts would be useful. The only drawback is that you need a place to keep a huge piece of junk while the pieces are being sold off. Once you get your investment plus your desired rate of return you haul it to do the dump and sell it by the pound.

 

[pacem]

I actually could use a vehicle of that size. Parting out seems like a pain. I doubt that I can get the parts to add up to $2500. I mean, how much does the 5.3L engine run for? $500? Aside from transmission, and 4WD parts, there isn't that much in it. Every single body panel is rusty.
I don't have the skills set to quickly part it out, I have taken engine out before but it can take me up to a week or more.
The frame looks solid at a quick glance but I assume a pro should also check that.

I know it's a total rust bucket but the mechanics seem solid, I test drove it at highway speeds and nothing obvious jumped at me during the 10 minutes of highway speeds.

If $2500 is too much, what is the viable price for it?

 

[pacem]

In this day, provided the driveline is happy, that’s a full-size running 4wd for next to nothing, the price of two bathroom sinks. It really depends on structural rust. I’ve seen two of these make it to the 225s before they start really nickel and diming. BUT, it’s hard to know if there are bandaids like transmission fix fluids and extra heavy engine oils covering things up. How is the underside? If it’s ok, I’d be inclined to say to go for it, not a lot to lose for the price. OTOH, if the frame looks like the sheet metal, run away.

I have a 2008 Tahoe with the same 5.3L/4L60 tranny with 254K and it's in worse shape than this, with almost no rust. Just worn out.
Thinking if I should upgrade from the 2008 Tahoe LS (very base model) to the Z71 Suburban. If I get 2 years out of this, I am in good shape.

 

[meep]

I guess the question is do you have a want for it, or is the money just burning a hole in your pocket? If I were looking at this, there would be a definite need and path forward, and exit plan. If the underside is like this, it’s not like you’ll get much for resale.

 

[skyactiv]

Being an Ohioan, vehicles in the NE part of the state like Cleveland, Akron.. tend to rust out much faster than vehicles that always lived in Columbus, Cincinnati or Portsmouth.

 

[pacem]

Seems like rust is just cosmetic, the frame is solid. But it might not be solid in a year or two. I need a full size Burb. More room than my Tahoe.
maybe what makes more sense is waiting for one in a more solid shape but be prepared to spend $5-6K.
This $2500 buy might be penny wise, pound foolish. Or not.

 

[pacem]

Being an Ohioan, vehicles in the NE part of the state like Cleveland, Akron.. tend to rust out much faster than vehicles that always lived in Columbus, Cincinnati or Portsmouth.

I dont know which part of Ohio it came from.

 

[PF52]

Would you consider a 5000,000 mile Toyota Sequoia?

 

[Barkleymut]

The frame looks solid at a quick glance but I assume a pro should also check that.

Get up under there with a screwdriver, if it goes thru any spot on the frame then you walk away. If it runs half decent and the frame is solid and you don't mind paying $5 a gallon to feed her, then take her home.

 

[Hyundai Respecter]

I personally would pass on this unless it was going to be some type of farm truck. But yeah, make sure a screwdriver doesn’t go through the frame and offer $2000

 

[Chris142]

Why would you even consider one in that kind of shape when there are 1000's available with no rust?

 

[01rangerxl]

Around here, that would sell for $2500 even with the rust (no inspections), but I would not want to mess with it personally. There are so many that aren't rusty.

 

[dishdude]

Way too rusty.

 

[pacem]

Why would you even consider one in that kind of shape when there are 1000's available with no rust?

Because the ones without rust and 150K miles sell for $6-8000

 

[Trav]

As others have said go over that frame carefully especially the rear wheel arches. I use a pointed hammer, it it goes through run don't walk.
This is a cheap piece of crap, not good enough to do real work but good enough for knocking holes.

Advance Auto Parts - Down for Maintenance

 

[Gladtojoin88]

The brake lines are the issues on this body style if they have already been replaced with stainless steel and the fuel pump has been replaced because the two straps maybe seized into the nuts on the frame rail I'd pull the trigger at $1500

 

[JavierH19]

With that much rust and problems I'd pay no more than 1500. How does it drive.