"Think Thin: GF-6 Is The Latest Spec In The World of Engine Oil"

[Ed_Flecko]

I found this: https://bit.ly/2NmOGOT to be an interesting article, but I do have a question. The writer makes, what *I* think is, a blanket statement, "Enthusiasts already know (or should know) that older performance engines require oils with elevated zinc and phosphate (ZDDP) levels. The reduced levels of ZDDP in current API SN engine oils demand that those with older performance engines use a different, more targeted, hot rod-style engine oil." We, here at BITOG know, that some oils are very high in ZDDP (for example, Toyota Genuine Motor Oil - 0W-20, correct?), so I think it's "old-school" to poo-poo more modern oils just because you have an "older performance engines" and/or because you think the oil is too thin (which is, I think, what the writer is implying)? Ed

 

[ChrisD46]

*My primariy area of interest would be between SN+ 5W20 and 5W30 synthetic oils in a modern GDI engine where the OM states both viscosity oils are allowed.

 

[dave1251]

I'm not going to venture into that link but from your quotation it reads like an advertisement.

 

[Garak]

Car magazines (and people like me) have been crying about phosphorus reduction for years. Unfortunately, that ship has sailed. That happened with GF-4. I suppose it's good to remind their core readership. However, GF-6 isn't doing anything to "harm" flat tappet muscle cars beyond how GF-4 (or whatever other spec one wishes to pick) "harmed" them. As always, one has to choose an appropriate viscosity and specification. API and ILSAC specs are backwards compatible. However, most really built up engines, even back then when they were current and being modified, let alone now, were never meant to be run on the cheapest 10w-30 PCMO from the gas station then, nor now. People screwed up engines back then and they do so now. Parts manufacturers screwed up metallurgy then, and that can happen now.

 

[1978elcamino]

As an owner of a sbc with a big nasty cam and 5k stall converter, I would never put in a thin oil like TGMO 0w20, no matter what add pack it has. I use to run Mobil 1 15w50 red lid, now driven a few times a year it gets Rotella, which Im sure many people use with their older "hot rods".

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by 1978elcamino

As an owner of a sbc with a big nasty cam and 5k stall converter, I would never put in a thin oil like TGMO 0w20, no matter what add pack it has. I use to run Mobil 1 15w50 red lid, now driven a few times a year it gets Rotella, which Im sure many people use with their older "hot rods".

Post us some pictures of this beast.

 

[1978elcamino]

Originally Posted by kschachn

Originally Posted by 1978elcamino

As an owner of a sbc with a big nasty cam and 5k stall converter, I would never put in a thin oil like TGMO 0w20, no matter what add pack it has. I use to run Mobil 1 15w50 red lid, now driven a few times a year it gets Rotella, which Im sure many people use with their older "hot rods".

Post us some pictures of this beast.

I would love to but I would be embarrassed to show what it looks like now. Sitting in the garage with boxes stacked up on the hood and in the bed collecting dust. Life has taken priority lately to where time slips are becoming less important each year.

 

[Ignatius]

Originally Posted by ChrisD46

*My primariy area of interest would be between SN+ 5W20 and 5W30 synthetic oils in a modern GDI engine where the OM states both viscosity oils are allowed.

+1

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted by 1978elcamino

As an owner of a sbc with a big nasty cam and 5k stall converter, I would never put in a thin oil like TGMO 0w20, no matter what add pack it has.

If it were an ordinary small block, I'd consider a Red Line 20 grade, but they are a lot closer to an ILSAC 30 in the first place by HTHS. For yours, nope, I wouldn't try it, either.