of course the first # is COLD flow @ 40C the second @100C, + agreeing with you a thicker oil film from a higher viscosity will protect better IMO. most 5W's-XX are similar at startup although different-better base oils aka real synthetic PAO + Esters thicken LESS as temps drop under the spec @ 40C, on that same note real synthetics thin less after 100C spec as noted on machinery lubrications curve cited in a past article. only those in EXTREME temps really benefit or need the costlier TRUE synthetic lubes. wishing everyone a HEALTHY + happy holiday!!! DONT eat + or drink TOO much!!!!!
Thicker is better in my opinion.
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In NYC your care will die of rust before any engine issue assuming normal engine maint.
Using the spec'ed oil weight will get one the best mileage while minimizing engine wear.
Using the spec'ed oil weight will get one the best mileage while minimizing engine wear.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Originally Posted by Navi
So a cheaply made Group III 5W40 is just as good as any 5W30 produced by Amsoil or Redline.
Amsoil and Redline produce their own oils now? I thought one was Mobil-1 and the other Valvoline. Can anyone offer the truth here?
Who makes Redline and Amsoil?
Navi
If your Duratec 3.7 is not GDI / TGDI, then keep rocking-on with 5W40. When judging oils solely based on engine sound (or lack of sound), then always buy what you feel is quietest and still lubricates & performs darn good.
BTW.... I really like the Euro 0W40 in my Colorado 3.5, which calls for 5W30 in my owners manual. You should try a 0W40 in that Duratec someday.
So a cheaply made Group III 5W40 is just as good as any 5W30 produced by Amsoil or Redline.
Amsoil and Redline produce their own oils now? I thought one was Mobil-1 and the other Valvoline. Can anyone offer the truth here?
Who makes Redline and Amsoil?
Navi
If your Duratec 3.7 is not GDI / TGDI, then keep rocking-on with 5W40. When judging oils solely based on engine sound (or lack of sound), then always buy what you feel is quietest and still lubricates & performs darn good.
BTW.... I really like the Euro 0W40 in my Colorado 3.5, which calls for 5W30 in my owners manual. You should try a 0W40 in that Duratec someday.
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Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Yuck Farnsy.
I recently done a trial run of Liqui-Moly treatment (see my signature).
I won't be reordering or substituting. Buy a good oil folks in the proper viscosity and enjoy that engine for many years, provided you have timely OCIs.
I recently done a trial run of Liqui-Moly treatment (see my signature).
I won't be reordering or substituting. Buy a good oil folks in the proper viscosity and enjoy that engine for many years, provided you have timely OCIs.
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Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Thank you PimTac. Next-up is who makes Amsoil?
Originally Posted by Farnsworth
Add one or two cans of STP, or "Motor Honey" to support the knowledge learned.
Nope. To keep it real real simple: If your engine is making metal to metal noise with a 20 grade move up to a 30 grade, if if makes noise with a 30 grade move up to a 40 grade, that's what I get from this.
Sometimes something as simple as bumping up a grade can resolve consumption and engine noise with no further action.
Add one or two cans of STP, or "Motor Honey" to support the knowledge learned.
Nope. To keep it real real simple: If your engine is making metal to metal noise with a 20 grade move up to a 30 grade, if if makes noise with a 30 grade move up to a 40 grade, that's what I get from this.
Originally Posted by Rolla07
It gets old, but sometimes it's fun.
Originally Posted by Rolla07
I feel bad for the horse. He's just trying to take a nap when someone mentions thick oil oil or MMO. Then wham, hit with a board.
I feel bad for the horse. He's just trying to take a nap when someone mentions thick oil oil or MMO. Then wham, hit with a board.
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
My 2017 Hyundai 2.4L GDI non - turbo engine calls for 5W20 on the oil fill cap - I have always run 5W30 synthetic in it . Just for grins , I decided to run QSUD 5W20 as my winter fill and what I have found 2,200 miles into the fill is : 1) A noisier engine 2) More oil consumption 3) No detectable increase in gas mileage 4) No detectable difference in how fast the engine warms up or accelerates ... On a warm enough day that makes me want to do an oil change - this QSUD 5W20 will be dumped between 3K to 4K miles and back in goes a 5W30 synthetic oil .
It is the lower number that matters when cold for flowing by being pumped around the oiling galleries. So using 5W-xx or 0W-xx is better than 10W-xx or 15W-xx oil.
And sure a 30 higher warm number is better generally.
I am thinking of using a 5w-40 oil instead of a 15w-40 oil in my boat engines, boat generator and even my Ram diesel cummins truck.
Better flow when cold means less chance of oil starving the bearings when cold.
My 2017 Hyundai 2.4L GDI non - turbo engine calls for 5W20 on the oil fill cap - I have always run 5W30 synthetic in it . Just for grins , I decided to run QSUD 5W20 as my winter fill and what I have found 2,200 miles into the fill is : 1) A noisier engine 2) More oil consumption 3) No detectable increase in gas mileage 4) No detectable difference in how fast the engine warms up or accelerates ... On a warm enough day that makes me want to do an oil change - this QSUD 5W20 will be dumped between 3K to 4K miles and back in goes a 5W30 synthetic oil .
It is the lower number that matters when cold for flowing by being pumped around the oiling galleries. So using 5W-xx or 0W-xx is better than 10W-xx or 15W-xx oil.
And sure a 30 higher warm number is better generally.
I am thinking of using a 5w-40 oil instead of a 15w-40 oil in my boat engines, boat generator and even my Ram diesel cummins truck.
Better flow when cold means less chance of oil starving the bearings when cold.
Originally Posted by TheLawnRanger
Originally Posted by Rolla07
I feel bad for the horse. He's just trying to take a nap when someone mentions thick oil oil or MMO. Then wham, hit with a board.
LOL Hit with a board, a bat, or a pipe, take your pick.
Originally Posted by Rolla07
I feel bad for the horse. He's just trying to take a nap when someone mentions thick oil oil or MMO. Then wham, hit with a board.
LOL Hit with a board, a bat, or a pipe, take your pick.
This forum needs a dead horse every once in a while.
I go thicker if the manufacturer calls for a thicker grade in the global market.
The Subaru crosstrek calls for 0w20 in the states and 5w30 in Europe - same engine. I'll be running 5w30 as soon as the warranty is up.
My old mustang gt (2v 4.6) was originally spec'd with 5w30 and then back spec'd to 5w20 - no thanks, it's been filled with 5w30 since day one.
My toyota's 1gr-fe specs 5w30 here in the states (and 0w20 in a different vehicle). In Australia it specs 5w30,10w30, or 15w40. I live in warm central California. My vehicles have never seen below zero. Why can't I use a 10w30 Or 15w40?
I go thicker if the manufacturer calls for a thicker grade in the global market.
The Subaru crosstrek calls for 0w20 in the states and 5w30 in Europe - same engine. I'll be running 5w30 as soon as the warranty is up.
My old mustang gt (2v 4.6) was originally spec'd with 5w30 and then back spec'd to 5w20 - no thanks, it's been filled with 5w30 since day one.
My toyota's 1gr-fe specs 5w30 here in the states (and 0w20 in a different vehicle). In Australia it specs 5w30,10w30, or 15w40. I live in warm central California. My vehicles have never seen below zero. Why can't I use a 10w30 Or 15w40?
Originally Posted by sdowney717
It is the lower number that matters when cold for flowing by being pumped around the oiling galleries. So using 5W-xx or 0W-xx is better than 10W-xx or 15W-xx oil.
It is both temperature and grade dependent. There is no guarantee that at any arbitrary temperature an oil with a lower winter rating is less viscous than another oil with a higher rating unless you know what grade and at what temperature. It is not a blanket property.
It is the lower number that matters when cold for flowing by being pumped around the oiling galleries. So using 5W-xx or 0W-xx is better than 10W-xx or 15W-xx oil.
It is both temperature and grade dependent. There is no guarantee that at any arbitrary temperature an oil with a lower winter rating is less viscous than another oil with a higher rating unless you know what grade and at what temperature. It is not a blanket property.
You cant make blanket statements like this, some of today's newest engines use advanced oil pumps and different surface finishing on internal parts to operate properly and best on the oils specified.
15w-40 all year in my AMC tractor engine with 269K on it. Actually, 15w-40 in everything because that's what I have jugs of.
Originally Posted by Trav
You cant make blanket statements like this, some of today's newest engines use advanced oil pumps and different surface finishing on internal parts to operate properly and best on the oils specified.
Correct.
Viscosity is like a hand in glove.
You cant make blanket statements like this, some of today's newest engines use advanced oil pumps and different surface finishing on internal parts to operate properly and best on the oils specified.
Correct.
Viscosity is like a hand in glove.
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by Farnsworth
Add one or two cans of STP, or "Motor Honey" to support the knowledge learned.
Nope. To keep it real real simple: If your engine is making metal to metal noise with a 20 grade move up to a 30 grade, if if makes noise with a 30 grade move up to a 40 grade, that's what I get from this.
Sometimes something as simple as bumping up a grade can resolve consumption and engine noise with no further action.
If your engine is making metal to metal noise regardless of what oil is in it, you need a better engine.
Originally Posted by Farnsworth
Add one or two cans of STP, or "Motor Honey" to support the knowledge learned.
Nope. To keep it real real simple: If your engine is making metal to metal noise with a 20 grade move up to a 30 grade, if if makes noise with a 30 grade move up to a 40 grade, that's what I get from this.
If your engine is making metal to metal noise regardless of what oil is in it, you need a better engine.
I use what the owner's manual says to use. I'll take my chances that the engineers who designed the vehicle and did countless hours of research and testing might know what's best.
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