The switching over process...???

[Toy4x4]

Hey all,
I'm a newbie to this forum, but have been doing a lot of reading and research on the subjects here and other sites. Topic and history: I have a '93 Toyota Xcab V6 4x4 with 114K miles (12K per year). Oil changes have occured religiously every 3K. A Toyota mechanic said its one of the best kept trucks he's seen. I live in AZ so its dang hot here (hottest I've seen was 122F). I am not planning on getting another vehicle unless this one's wrecked or a bunch of money falls out of the sky and hits me in the head. So... this is the line of thinking I'm doing:
1. Completing an Auto-Rx cleansing.
2. Start using an excellent synthetic oil.
3. Attach a quality remote bypass filter system in order to just replace filters and only add oil (the "superfilter" every year, stock every 6 months).
Questions about #1--When adding a can of Auto-Rx, do you add it on top of new oil fill (for Toyotas remember) of 5 qrts. or is it part of total fill?
Questions about #2--In consideration of #3 (and plain ol' "whats the best oil?"), which oil would be best for extended drain/filter-change-only. Amsoil touts theirs as best, but I'm leery of the company's hype and marketing. I don't think Mobil1 says anything about extended drains of which I'm thinking. I hadn't heard of Schaffer's until coming to this forum. Do they make a full syn.? Couldn't find price list either for Schaffer's. Any others?
Questions about #3--What is a quality remote bypass filter system. The Oilguard (made by Racor, a subdivision of Parker/Hannifin) seem to be a good system. Anybody here use one? I still have to read up on the TP (toilet paper)systems but they seem messy and filter disposal a problem. TP filters, I think, have to be switched every 3K, which would use more oil. Where would I install one on my truck? The engine bay is too crowded.
Well, I feel like this

right now since starting to research these topics a couple months ago. I've probably missed a few questions to ask. Sorry for the long post and numerous questions. All info. is greatly appreciated.

Btw...I'm doing all this to save money in the long run, to protect my truck from wear and tear due to run of the mill lower quality oil changes (compared to syn), high heat, and to help out the environment a little (don't laugh

, trying to do my part

).
Thank you.
Hugh

 

[deepsquat]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Hugh:
Hey all,
I'm a newbie to this forum, but have been doing a lot of reading and research on the subjects here and other sites. Topic and history: I have a '93 Toyota Xcab V6 4x4 with 114K miles (12K per year). Oil changes have occured religiously every 3K. A Toyota mechanic said its one of the best kept trucks he's seen. I live in AZ so its dang hot here (hottest I've seen was 122F). I am not planning on getting another vehicle unless this one's wrecked or a bunch of money falls out of the sky and hits me in the head. So... this is the line of thinking I'm doing:
1. Completing an Auto-Rx cleansing.
2. Start using an excellent synthetic oil.
3. Attach a quality remote bypass filter system in order to just replace filters and only add oil (the "superfilter" every year, stock every 6 months).
Questions about #1--When adding a can of Auto-Rx, do you add it on top of new oil fill (for Toyotas remember) of 5 qrts. or is it part of total fill?
Questions about #2--In consideration of #3 (and plain ol' "whats the best oil?"), which oil would be best for extended drain/filter-change-only. Amsoil touts theirs as best, but I'm leery of the company's hype and marketing. I don't think Mobil1 says anything about extended drains of which I'm thinking. I hadn't heard of Schaffer's until coming to this forum. Do they make a full syn.? Couldn't find price list either for Schaffer's. Any others?
Questions about #3--What is a quality remote bypass filter system. The Oilguard (made by Racor, a subdivision of Parker/Hannifin) seem to be a good system. Anybody here use one? I still have to read up on the TP (toilet paper)systems but they seem messy and filter disposal a problem. TP filters, I think, have to be switched every 3K, which would use more oil. Where would I install one on my truck? The engine bay is too crowded.
Well, I feel like this

right now since starting to research these topics a couple months ago. I've probably missed a few questions to ask. Sorry for the long post and numerous questions. All info. is greatly appreciated.

Btw...I'm doing all this to save money in the long run, to protect my truck from wear and tear due to run of the mill lower quality oil changes (compared to syn), high heat, and to help out the environment a little (don't laugh

, trying to do my part

).
Thank you.
Hugh

---

I have a remote bypass system in my 95 Nissan Altima...I run mobile 1 (do a search in the oil analysis section to see my analysis of Mobile 1 with 30000 miles on it.)
Though I do use the TP versison , Gulf Coast, I have mine sitting in the engine compartment on the fan shroud ..held in place by some zip ties that I formed a chain with..then anchored in place to some solid supports...I know this does not dound good, but it was the only place in my cramped compartnent to put it, and I have zero fear of it breaking loose, as there is no motion associated with its' location.
As to the motorguard application I believe that it has one drawback compared to a Gulf Coast or Frantz.. The GC is called a radial axis flow filter ...the oil goes in at the center of the filter goes up the tube and flows down through the fiber before exiting, ont the Motor guard this does not happen, it filters fron top to bottom or bottom to top, perhaps not going through as much fiber..go here to read about or purchase (he is a sight sponser)http://www.bypassfilter.com/
As for the mess...a little , I usually use it as an excuse to degrease my engine compartment..takes an extra 2-3 minutes ...no big deal.
Oil: I have just switched to Mobile Delvac 1 a a synthetic made for diesel engines , but can be used on gas powered vehicles, it has one of the strongest additive packages avalible...it is better then Mobile 1.
An alternitive remote bypass system would be to use the Amsoil system ...if you use thier oils use the series 2000, or the series 3000 (best) .

 

[widman]

Personally I think extended drains are for people who drive more than you do. I see too much bearing corrosion in oil that sits that long, although there are other considerations that might compensate.

 

[TooSlick]

Hugh
I've been an Amsoil dealer for a number of years, but I would not bother with a by-pass filter in this case, since you drive so few miles per year. You could just use Amsoil with their standard full flow filter; change filters every six months and change the oil once a year. The rest of your truck will be a pile of rust before the engine wears out at the rate you are driving. My other choices in an extended drain oil would be Mobil Delvac 1 or Redline.

TooSlick

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

Hugh,

In the 30000 mile tp oil filter situation using M1, his 3k drain intervals included many top off's during the TP change outs, which is not a good representation of extended drains. IMO, an extended drain is where you can extend without having to get dirty by changing filters mid way or having to top off with fresh oil so to subsidize the old additives with new.

That being said, You can run extended drains without going overboard trying to extend past 12-15,000 miles in a small sump capacity is not much value in respect to one vehicle. In a fleet of vehicles or in high sump capacity such as 10 or 15 gals,this would start to make sense for that company where the savings would really add up but for one, it has limited value vers the expense of any bypass system and such. Again, my opinion, if I have to replace a filter, it's not that much more time or money to drop the old oil and add 4-5qts of fresh oil.

As for quality oils, In addition to what TooSlick stated, Schaeffers should be included in this list. Yes they make a full synth but only in a 5w30 and it is not api certified like amsoils 2 and 3000 series. Contrary to popular belief, the blend is as good for wear protection and extended drains as any of the mentioned full synth as supported by our used oil analysis section and is api certified.

Schaeffers IS the OLDEST oil company in the U.S. doing business since the 1830's and has technology in lubrication that many are just now figuring out and trying to implement with the use of moly. This includes M1's new SS. Schaeffers oils have been doing for many years before others thought about it using these proven out oils.

Now does that mean Schaeffers is the best? Sure it's a great oil but I won't say it's the best just because we have been around longer than any other oil company and it would be a bold and untrue statement. There is many oils that will do the job you're looking for but don't allow yourself to get bogged down too much with little details, but look at the over all total package.

This is one of the biggest problems that many have, looking at the base oil and see it has a higher flash point or better noack than another, and to judge an oil on just base oil alone is incorrect. If you are designing an oil, looking at individual aspects through the use of a tech data sheet will provide valuable information and only as a chemist would this provide proper usable information but even after you assemble your oil, you must run it, use oil analysis and determine if what you have taken off technical data is in fact doing what you want. I encourage you and whomever else looking at oils, to use oil analysis to determine how one oil is going to hold up for your applications. You may very well find that the cost isn't always a good judge of a good oil but blending techniques, base oils and types and quality of additives, in combination to many other little factors not taken into consideration when looking at one or two aspect of any oil, all of which can show up in a simple oil analysis report.

As for Schaeffers pricing, depending on if you buy wholesale as many do or retail. Retail from Tim is around 3.00 a qt. Just call for pricing because by the rules imposed by schaeffers, pricing isn't allowed by use to be posted unless you use suggested retail which you don't want and I have yet to ever sell it that high.

Which ever you decide to try,goto the site supporters page and select what product you want and it will give you the corresponding reps contact information. This includes Mobil, Amsoil, Schaeffers, Autorx, Oil analysis and hopefully more as time goes on.
Site Supporters Main Order Page

bob

 

[TooSlick]

Bob,

I'm curious as to why Schaeffers doesn't license their full synthetic, "moly pure" product? I noticed on the API website it is one of two products that aren't licensed. The other was the Supreme 7000, 5w-30 synthetic blend, if I recall.

I agree about the Gulf Coast filter system, BTW ...you are adding so much fresh oil with that design that you can use almost any oil and run very long drains.

TooSlick

 

[BOBISTHEOILGUY]

The only motor oil not api certified by schaeffers is the full synth. One reason is because they just don't sell enough of it to be justified and usually is used in special situations not normally where api certifications are an issue from my understanding. It is not that it won't pass, just economics.

Api site has been known in several instances not have all api cert's posted curently on their site as I have seen this before a while back, but I can assure the supreme 7000's are certified. They sent us the letters showing where they had been accepted and approved for the certifications. If you know which one it doesnt' show, I'll bring it to larry's attention so he can get them to update their site.

 

[UncleS2]

The 12 oz of Auto-Rx is part of your total oil fill. Just put in 12 oz less oil.

 

[deepsquat]

[quote} Topic and history: I have a '93 Toyota Xcab V6 4x4 with 114K miles (12K per year). Oil changes have occured religiously every 3K[/quote]

Bob I think my 3000 mile TP changeout with the top off is a completely accurate reprsentation for Hughs situation ..as he state he does a 3000mile total changeout now...why not just make it the filter ?
BTW The theory behind changing the filter every 3000 miles (as opposed to Amsoils 20000 bypass filter change ) is that the TP does such a great job of filtering ...that it would be clogged if you didnt change it..meaning that this filter (at least on paper ) is far better then the pleated cardboard that Fram and others offer.

 

[jjbula]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Stuart Hughes:
The 12 oz of Auto-Rx is part of your total oil fill. Just put in 12 oz less oil.

---

Or you could add less oil equal to the amount of Auto-Rx you will add.

 

[Toy4x4]

Deepsquat,
I'd like to start a regiment of changing the regular filter every six months and the remote bypass filter every year. The TP filter process uses more oil which means a higher annual cost and more waste. No offense, but I don't want to go the TP route.
Everyone:
Are there any other suggestions on a remote system? I know its overkill. Pretend that I only have 5K on the truck, what systems (besides Amsoil) are good?

 

[Toy4x4]

TooSlick and Bob,
Thanks for the info.
As far as the bypass system, I don't mind it being overkill. If I start recouping my cost 3 years down the road, so be it. Even if it means saving $20-$30 per year. Rust?? What's that? lol This is AZ.

An easy way to tell a vehicle isn't from AZ is that it has rust on it. lol Dust...YES!!! Another concern for higher filtration. Do you have opinions on the Oilguard/Racor system?
Oil---I like to stick with 10W-30. For a while I used 10W-40 and the truck didn't run as well. I've no experience with a 5W-30. Seems like it would be too thin. I'd like to use a full synth. for the simple fact it uses less dino oil. The Delvac 1 is available only in 5W-40.
Any answers on the Auto-Rx top off question?
Thanks.
Hugh

 

[jjbula]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Hugh:
Questions about #1--When adding a can of Auto-Rx, do you add it on top of new oil fill (for Toyotas remember) of 5 qrts. or is it part of total fill?
Thank you.
Hugh

---

Hugh,

You would add less oil equal to the Auto-Rx. Of course, check the level soon after to make sure the dipstick indicates the correct range.

If still in doubt, call Auto-Rx. Frank, the inventor and owner, is available to give advice to the individual user. He may even tailor the application to your individual needs/circumstances.

JJ

 

[TooSlick]

Hugh,

The larger Oilguard system is nice, as is the harvard system. Those are the other two that are designed for small gas engines. If you had a large diesel engine, there are about a dozen different systems out there.

I'd run the single Amsoil bypass setup (BMK-11), with their BE90 or BE100 filter element. There is a very tight squeeze on the V-6 Toyota engine and you won't have room for the dual remote.

Mobil 1 will work fine with this setup ...I'd start out testing the oil after 5000 miles and then every 10,000 miles after that, until you establish some baseline data. If you'd like technical assistance, drop me a line.

TooSlick

 

[Toy4x4]

TooSlick,
Where can I find the Harvard online? Tried search engines with no luck. Know of any sites? I looked at their site and it does look decent but it didn't have too much info (ie.--specs and price).
Thanks.

 

[ssmokn]

Hugh,

If you got 114K on your truck now what makes you think you can't get another 114K doing the same thing with the same oil?

Don't get me wrong... I understand the benefits of synthetic oil (and I use it in some of my vehicles) but looking at various friends and the oils they use I can't think of anyone that has gotten longer service out of their vehicle with synthetic oil.

I know some folks that have gone anywhere from 200K to 400K (seriously) on dino oil. They all were people that take car of their cars. The vehicles were all retired for reasons other than engine problems (crashed, rusted out, other major mechanical problems).

Just keep doing what you have been doing and you will probably get another 114K out of it. Take the additional $$ you would have spent on the increased cost of the synthetic and the bypass filter and put it in the bank to start saving for the next vehicle.

Just some "alternative" thinking here.

 

[Toy4x4]

All the benefits of having syn or even semi-syn are the reasons why I'd like to switch. The initial cost is the only big downside in this kind of process. Over the long run, it should start saving me money and I get immediate benefits by switching.
Call it a personal flaw, but it bugs me knowing there is something out there better and I'm not using it and I'm able to have it. I don't mind outlaying some extra money up front knowing quality will get down the road more efficiently.
As for the remote, I still can't find a decent spot, engine bay is too crowded. Thought about attaching it to the vented steel plate under front bumper, haven't really analysed it well, though. So I might have to nix this idea all together. Time and all the facts and info. will tell.
Thanks.
Hugh

 

[deepsquat]

I can think of a few more spots you can mount it...depends on how serious you are....

1 you have a king cab design...how about inside the cab on the back wall??/ under the extra seats...depends on the space under it
2 How about mounting it in the bed of the truck/off to oneside of a wheel well..could protect it with a small custom built box of some sort.
3 how about under the truck bed? you mayeven be able to run the lines through the frame rails.
4 Relocate the battery to the truck bed and place the bypass in its spot.

 

[dragboat]

ssmokn just wrote my thoughts near word for word.

I would though Either run the Shaeffers Supreme 10/30 or the Mobile 0/40 Supersyn if you must have a synthetic and change a 4k w/o worry. Or stay with what you have been doing,taking into account what your mechanic has told you.

And put the money in the bank for the next Truck,never know what will come along in the next few years you just can't live without

But it is your money,you have just asked for some feed back,that you have recieved

 

[Toy4x4]

Dragboat,
You have just taken the thoughts right out of MY head. I can't find a space to put remote filter w/o it being a PITA. Seem like Schaffers 10W-30 blend is a good choice with a better regular filter.
I know I have come off as overly enthusiastic about this. Upon starting to research all this in early June, I thought "Why hadn't I seen any info on this before?" and, 'being the way I am', wanted the best for my truck.
All the info provided has been greatly appreciated and it will be applied.
The remote setup will have to wait until next time. Now I have to look at a filter that would be better than stock, if possible.
Thanks all again.
Hugh