The Price of Engine Protection

Messages
1,241
Location
Glenshaw, PA
Given the fact that I've been an advocate of the botique oils, I'd figure I'd start this topic to ask the question: How much is one willing to pay for the standard quart/liter/gallon of oil for one's pride and joy? I'll start by stating that I have, in fact, spent $11 per liter on my current lubricant: Maxima Maxum 4 Ultra 0w30. This is in my Honda CR-V, which sees 85% of all the miles between our two vehicles. I also drive like the dickens, so I wanted what I thought to be the best. I know that there are other oils, but that it the one I chose. Now your turn...
 
Messages
5,747
Location
North Texas
Ive gone by the reviews and my choice would be amsoil just because thats what ive been using for a few oil changes now. The best isnt always the greatest. People run cheap oil and still reach 300K and there are some that use what they think is the best and barely get 100K. Engines either last a long time or thye crap out like theres no tomorrow.
 
Messages
1,381
Location
Southeast Kentucky
I use Havoline or Motorcraft because I don't think I'd gain much more engine protection using a $5/qt oil, at least not that I'd notice in the 5-6 years I keep a vehicle.
 
Messages
36,417
Location
ME
Having blown a starter at -8'F (not that cold) using dino 10w30 in 1997, a good winter-weight synthetic is worth it to me for protecting just the starting system. Incidentally, I then roll started the car (89 mazda 323) and the motor caught fine, but boy did it sound mad. [Big Grin] The rest of the year I run the cheap stuff and probably change it too soon.
 
Messages
4,485
Location
Massachusetts
The price of engine protection.... hmmm, what ever SM/SL oil is cheap and I have done at least some research on. I think $1.60/qt is a good round number. My 150+ qt stash is mostly made up of SuperTech (XOM up here). It gives decent UOA's for a 4K OCI and the price is right. I try and look for closeouts and "cheapie sections". I think that Amsoil, Redline, RP are great oils, I just don't see the cost justification of $5-$6/qt over the usable life of the car if I keep up with regular dino maintenance. My $.02
 
Messages
956
Location
Eastern burbs, MN
Incidentally, I then roll started the car (89 mazda 323) and the motor caught fine, but boy did it sound mad. You didn't happen to yell out "Hey fellas, watch this!" just when you started to push the car did ya? [LOL!]
 
Messages
2,438
Location
Frankfort, Kentucky
Price of engine protection Current car will get whatever is on sale, and imported $1.24 AA filters. If I can find a cheap BP setup, I will run it for the fun of it. Otherwise I will stick to 4-6 month OCI's
 

Dad2leia

Thread starter
Messages
1,241
Location
Glenshaw, PA
I have to jump in again and say that most of you can be a textbook picture for the term "cheapskate". Let's see $20,000+ for the vehicle, but keep it under $15 for an oil change....I guess that I really have gone over the deep end... [Cool]
 
Messages
2,703
Location
Lincoln, NE
If I had a $20k vehicle, my choices might be different. My $2,000 (if that) Saturn oil-burner gets $1.16/quart SuperTech. I may try something different to see if it affects consumption. Otherwise, cheap SM rated gets my vote.
 
Messages
2,364
Location
sebring, florida
a $20K vehicle doesnt have a $20K engine. it has a $2K engine. some of you guys burn through more than $2K in synthetic and expensive oil filters throughout the life of youre engine.
 
Messages
11,633
Location
Illinois
quote:
Touche javacontour. Glad to see that I'm not the only smart--- in the group here...
I bought a 1979 Ford Fairmont in 1995 for $100 from the father-in-law of a good friend of mine. I went over to look at the car and it started, so I pulled out 5 $20's and gave them to him. He said, don't you want to drive it. I told him anything that started was worth the $100 he was asking. I drove it for three years, spent a total of $1700 in gas and maintenance and sold it to an NCO at the local AFB for $500 after putting about 60K miles on that beast. It was rusty and broke a few things, but for a work beater that spent a lot of time (and more than $100) parked at the airport, it was a great car. I should have kept the car and got rid of my now ex-wife back then when she was complaining about that eye sore, LOL. T
 

Dad2leia

Thread starter
Messages
1,241
Location
Glenshaw, PA
eidamiam, I'm not stating a hard fact, but I find it hard to beleive that the corner parts store petroleum based oil could beat a high quality synthetic in all aspects. Note I said ALL, not that it couldn't beat it in a couple areas. If, however, it could be proven to be superior in ALL aspects, then I would have to concede and go with that $1.50 quart oil and admit that I've flushed green for a while. Virtuoso, I had a '91 SL2, so I fully appreciate using the regular API approved case of oil you could pick up for $10 a case on sale. I started using synthetic in mine right after the break in period. After it got to the point of buying 2 cases for the time period of one OCI, a gave up the synthetic and went the way of the petroleum. Mine had darn near 300K miles on her when the front end suspension and steering parts said enough of being nice and saying, "We need replaced, or we won't pass annual inspection (which PA has)", that's when I had to retire her from use. She sat for over 1 1/2 years before my dad's cousin got his brother to take it, and that engine fired right up after all that time. Too bad that it was and oil-consuming beast, but one heck of an engine. Master ACiD, most import engines are more than $2K, but I see your point. I know that my driving habits aren't the best in the world, nor the easiet on the engine. When I'm ticked, the engine gets revved up higher and longer than it should. Extra protection for an extra hot head! Javacontour, the car was probably more reliable than the wife as well, right?!? [Smile] [Big Grin] [Wink]
 
Messages
2,438
Location
Frankfort, Kentucky
YOu miss the point I live in Japan. The $1.24 oil filter is probably the same quality as the $9 filter I would be buying here, plus I know what the $1.24 filter is made of Cheap oil here starts at $2.50 a qt, so going mid-grade would be like buying a boutique oil. Boutique oils run $70 for a gallon here. Lastly, I paid $2000 for the car, and CANNOT get any money out of the car when I leave, therefore, less is better, because I am honestly keeping the motor alive better than most Japanese people would do. I want to run a BP filter on it. It can't get treated better than that.
 

Dad2leia

Thread starter
Messages
1,241
Location
Glenshaw, PA
My apologies Shaman, I didn't realize the price premiums over there. I guess I should've know, given that I was in France seven years ago and was agast at the pricing of petroleum and their relative products then...
 
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