The best penetrating oil?

[Audios]

I think Project Farm did a pretty comprehensive test and Seafoam Deep Creep came out on top. I use it at the shop amongst others like Kroil, Kimball Midwest and Rogo and never really saw any difference. His test has pretty obvious visual results though

 

[BrocLuno]

Kroil ...

 

[Warstud]

I never figured WD-40 would make a good pen. oil

 

[StevieC]

We have Rust Check penetrating fluid (Red Can), that stuff is excellent. Not sure if it's available south of the border though.

 

[Balrog006]

Kano Kroil, never failed me.

 

[AZjeff]

We all have our favorites based on some experience. Seeing testing that involves actual numbers, even if not perfectly executed, is worth considering IMO. Kroil or PBB might work OK but that doesn't mean something might be better and worth a try. I'll probably get a can of that Seafoam but since I moved from Pa to Az working on rusty fasteners doesn't happen often.

 

[cronk]

I've had good results from PB Blaster. I'm sure Kroil and the SeaFoam stuff may be good, but Blaster is readily available at Walmart and most auto parts stores, so that is what I use.

 

[clinebarger]

PB Blaster is satisfactory for what I do.

I've done my fair share of restoration work & rusted/seized/broken fasteners are part of the game. One of the most unusual techniques I learned was to heat a broken stud with a torch/induction heat gun 'til it's glowing & pour cold water on the stud.......Shocks the [censored] out of it! And they come right out.

I won't suffer through another one of his video's......He's a special kind of stupid!!!! If your scared of "Petrochemicals".....Stay away from automobiles.

 

[SZR48207]

Ditto on clinebarger's note. I've pretty much had 100% luck using heat to unstuck fasteners, whereas most sprays or fluids are maybe 50% effective at most.

There was one particular case where I needed to disassemble a motorcycle mirror assembly because the "stem" had rusted itself shut and I couldn't spin it any more. The "big freaking wrench" approach didn't work, nor did PB blaster, so I put it in a vise and hit it with a propane torch for a few minutes. The minute I took a wrench to it, years of rust just let go and it started spinning, but all the heat actually stirred up the crud inside the assembly and it went "pop" and a bunch of dust and debris went airborne as soon as I unthreaded the stem.

Heat all the way.

 

[StevieC]

Heat and Beat (or shock) works the best for sure if possible. Otherwise penetrating fluids.

 

[hank2]

I had not heard of the veg oil and acetone recipe. I've been using the old 95% ATF and 5% Acetone mix with great results for many years.

 

[R18Civic]

Liquid Wrench or Mineral Spirits/ATF mix

 

[Ducked]

Seems to me if ATF with acetone is good, motor oil with maybe a bit more acetone should be good too.

I don't have a use for ATF and I doubt its worth buying it specially.

 

[rubberchicken]

Originally Posted by clinebarger
PB Blaster is satisfactory for what I do.

I've done my fair share of restoration work & rusted/seized/broken fasteners are part of the game. One of the most unusual techniques I learned was to heat a broken stud with a torch/induction heat gun 'til it's glowing & pour cold water on the stud.......Shocks the [censored] out of it! And they come right out.

I won't suffer through another one of his video's......He's a special kind of stupid!!!! If your scared of "Petrochemicals".....Stay away from automobiles.


Loctite Freeze and Release : a special penetrating oil combined with liquid nitrogen or something that causes a shock effect in the fastener. I got a can of it and tried it a few times, but it seemed no more effective than other products. Also, this product is NOT for "heat it with a torch" then shock it cold- the residual heat will ignite the product. Ask me how I know !! Yes, it has warnings on it.

 

[irv]

 

[Ducked]

I worry about this guys Internyet future.

This doesn't match the established Stupid-and-Pointless-R-Us house style that was such a hit with the LOL Crowd either.

Anyway, brake fluid is pretty close to the leaders.

That's good because I can get brake fluid here, though it would have made sense to include the other common "generic", ATF/acetone, which I believe he said came second in a previous test series.

However, the VERY slight differences from the control (WD-40 actually slightly worse) do raise doubts as to the tests relevance, suggesting these fittings weren't really rusted up enough to need a penetrating oil at all.

 

[Ducked]

I can remember a couple of occaisions where the corrosion on a small bushing or sleeve has easily supported the whole weight of the front of the car, plus whacking with a BFH.

I have to doubt that ANY lubricant alone is going to make much difference in such a situation.

Perhaps, if you can't get heat to it, an acid (vinegar, phosphoric, even hydrochloric?) might help?

I used to have a single carbon welding torch. These were apparently sold in the 60's/70's with the story that you could weld using the car battery.

I couldn't get mine to weld, but someone recently suggested to me that I was doing it wrong, which seems quite likely.

https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=126066

Even if it won't weld, such a thing (original or homemade) might be a convenient way of applying local heat to a fitting.