Does anyone have any tests they can tell us about? It is said that synthetic gets better mileage but I wanted to know for sure.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Tests of Dino oil vs Synthetic and fuel mileage?
- Thread starter callbay
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In my quest to find "The best oil" for my application I have tried just about every brand of Dino & Syn.
I can tell you without a doubt that switching between all these brands, weights and types of oils, that none have had any significant change on fuel economy.
I drive a lot of miles for my job and drive mostly the same routes. I also have a Scan-Gauge hooked up to my cars computer to track mileage and it was confirmed by it.
I might have seen 0.5% increase at the most (being generous), but nothing that you would notice in your pocket book or that you could attribute to the oil for sure. This is probably because I keep my engine well maintained and well tuned so things like oil make little difference IMO.
If you want to save money, get a scan-gauge and drive a bit slower and maximize your economy using the gauge to monitor your real-time fuel economy, and look up Hyper Miling on Youtube! Switching to another oil, especially at a higher cost will negate any possible savings you were to gain in fuel economy because you are trading one for the other.
Now if your engine has seen less than stellar maintenance in the past, a good clean up by a good synthetic could result in better mileage but this isn't the oil that is giving you the mileage it's the cleaning process.
I can tell you without a doubt that switching between all these brands, weights and types of oils, that none have had any significant change on fuel economy.
I drive a lot of miles for my job and drive mostly the same routes. I also have a Scan-Gauge hooked up to my cars computer to track mileage and it was confirmed by it.
I might have seen 0.5% increase at the most (being generous), but nothing that you would notice in your pocket book or that you could attribute to the oil for sure. This is probably because I keep my engine well maintained and well tuned so things like oil make little difference IMO.
If you want to save money, get a scan-gauge and drive a bit slower and maximize your economy using the gauge to monitor your real-time fuel economy, and look up Hyper Miling on Youtube! Switching to another oil, especially at a higher cost will negate any possible savings you were to gain in fuel economy because you are trading one for the other.
Now if your engine has seen less than stellar maintenance in the past, a good clean up by a good synthetic could result in better mileage but this isn't the oil that is giving you the mileage it's the cleaning process.
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
In my quest to find "The best oil" for my application I have tried just about every brand of Dino & Syn.
I can tell you without a doubt that switching between all these brands, weights and types of oils, that none have had any significant change on fuel economy.
I drive a lot of miles for my job and drive mostly the same routes. I also have a Scan-Gauge hooked up to my cars computer to track mileage and it was confirmed by it.
I might have seen 0.5% increase at the most, but nothing that you would notice in your pocket book or that you could attribute to the oil.
If you want to save money, get a scan-gauge and drive a bit slower and maximize your economy using the gauge to monitor your real-time fuel economy, and look up Hyper Miling on Youtube!
Now if you engine has seen less than stellar maintenance in the past, a good clean up by a good synthetic could result in better mileage but this isn't the oil that is giving you the mileage it's the cleaning process.
StevieC is correct,their really is no difference.
In my quest to find "The best oil" for my application I have tried just about every brand of Dino & Syn.
I can tell you without a doubt that switching between all these brands, weights and types of oils, that none have had any significant change on fuel economy.
I drive a lot of miles for my job and drive mostly the same routes. I also have a Scan-Gauge hooked up to my cars computer to track mileage and it was confirmed by it.
I might have seen 0.5% increase at the most, but nothing that you would notice in your pocket book or that you could attribute to the oil.
If you want to save money, get a scan-gauge and drive a bit slower and maximize your economy using the gauge to monitor your real-time fuel economy, and look up Hyper Miling on Youtube!
Now if you engine has seen less than stellar maintenance in the past, a good clean up by a good synthetic could result in better mileage but this isn't the oil that is giving you the mileage it's the cleaning process.
StevieC is correct,their really is no difference.
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I ran extensive fuel consumption test on my 2000 Subaru AWD and found the following. Each test was over 2000+ miles. I ran factory gear lubes and Dino oil (Pennzoil & Mobil 5,000). I then changed the engine over to Mobil 1 std and front and rear differentials AND AT over to Mobil 1 synthetic. I measured a 0.42% increase in mileage with a Standard Deviation of 0.16. The bottom line is that if I stayed with the manufactures maximum OCI recommendations, I would never recover the extra cost. I do my own oil changes so I stick with synthetic as I'm fussy and like to go one step better than necessary. Ed
Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Lexus114 is correct in saying SteveC is correct.
I concur with FrankN4
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I ran extensive fuel consumption test on my 2000 Subaru AWD and found the following. Each test was over 2000+ miles. I ran factory gear lubes and Dino oil (Pennzoil & Mobil 5,000). I then changed the engine over to Mobil 1 std and front and rear differentials AND AT over to Mobil 1 synthetic. I measured a 0.42% increase in mileage with a Standard Deviation of 0.16. The bottom line is that if I stayed with the manufactures maximum OCI recommendations, I would never recover the extra cost. I do my own oil changes so I stick with synthetic as I'm fussy and like to go one step better than necessary. Ed
I too run synthetic, because of the brutally cold winter here and because my Santa Fe has valve lifter ticking when the engine is cold with Dino. It doesn't mean increased wear but it really bothers me and seeing as my gas/maintenance/insurance is covered by my work through the mileage they pay me, why not spring for the best available is how I look at it!
Lexus114 is correct in saying SteveC is correct.
I concur with FrankN4
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I ran extensive fuel consumption test on my 2000 Subaru AWD and found the following. Each test was over 2000+ miles. I ran factory gear lubes and Dino oil (Pennzoil & Mobil 5,000). I then changed the engine over to Mobil 1 std and front and rear differentials AND AT over to Mobil 1 synthetic. I measured a 0.42% increase in mileage with a Standard Deviation of 0.16. The bottom line is that if I stayed with the manufactures maximum OCI recommendations, I would never recover the extra cost. I do my own oil changes so I stick with synthetic as I'm fussy and like to go one step better than necessary. Ed
I too run synthetic, because of the brutally cold winter here and because my Santa Fe has valve lifter ticking when the engine is cold with Dino. It doesn't mean increased wear but it really bothers me and seeing as my gas/maintenance/insurance is covered by my work through the mileage they pay me, why not spring for the best available is how I look at it!
I've been using M1 for 31 years, so back in 78 when I started using M1 the dino I did use was Val 10-40. That was the common oil to use in that time.
The M1 was 5-20 so a big wt. differance, buy my mileage did jump 2 MPG. That was then, but doubt if you see that much difference today with the lighter dino oils we now have. However Synth oil will give you overall a cleaner, longer lasting, and easier starting engine than the average dino. IMMHO.
The M1 was 5-20 so a big wt. differance, buy my mileage did jump 2 MPG. That was then, but doubt if you see that much difference today with the lighter dino oils we now have. However Synth oil will give you overall a cleaner, longer lasting, and easier starting engine than the average dino. IMMHO.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Lexus114 is correct in saying SteveC is correct.
I concur with FrankN4
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I ran extensive fuel consumption test on my 2000 Subaru AWD and found the following. Each test was over 2000+ miles. I ran factory gear lubes and Dino oil (Pennzoil & Mobil 5,000). I then changed the engine over to Mobil 1 std and front and rear differentials AND AT over to Mobil 1 synthetic. I measured a 0.42% increase in mileage with a Standard Deviation of 0.16. The bottom line is that if I stayed with the manufactures maximum OCI recommendations, I would never recover the extra cost. I do my own oil changes so I stick with synthetic as I'm fussy and like to go one step better than necessary. Ed
I too run synthetic, because of the brutally cold winter here and because my Santa Fe has valve lifter ticking when the engine is cold with Dino. It doesn't mean increased wear but it really bothers me and seeing as my gas/maintenance/insurance is covered by my work through the mileage they pay me, why not spring for the best available is how I look at it!
I concur with FrankN4,and StevieC
Nyuk,Nyuk,Nyuk aaah,aaah!!
Originally Posted By: FrankN4
Lexus114 is correct in saying SteveC is correct.
I concur with FrankN4
Originally Posted By: Eddie
I ran extensive fuel consumption test on my 2000 Subaru AWD and found the following. Each test was over 2000+ miles. I ran factory gear lubes and Dino oil (Pennzoil & Mobil 5,000). I then changed the engine over to Mobil 1 std and front and rear differentials AND AT over to Mobil 1 synthetic. I measured a 0.42% increase in mileage with a Standard Deviation of 0.16. The bottom line is that if I stayed with the manufactures maximum OCI recommendations, I would never recover the extra cost. I do my own oil changes so I stick with synthetic as I'm fussy and like to go one step better than necessary. Ed
I too run synthetic, because of the brutally cold winter here and because my Santa Fe has valve lifter ticking when the engine is cold with Dino. It doesn't mean increased wear but it really bothers me and seeing as my gas/maintenance/insurance is covered by my work through the mileage they pay me, why not spring for the best available is how I look at it!
I concur with FrankN4,and StevieC
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No real difference in MPG or longevity. Some cosmetic differences in dark places you normally will never see. i go between synthetics and conventionals and have no performance differences to report.
Today .... conventional, blend, or synthetic .... an exactly similar grade should perform almost exactly the same as its cohorts. They meet the same specifications. Maybe there's some small tweeks in additive or formulation but the bottom line is a 5W20 will perform like any other 5W20 thanks to SAE/ILSAC qualifications.
Any increase has been too small accurately measure or get excited about... maybe less than 1/2 percent. This increase gets lost in the other 'noise' of the daily grind.
There are very marginal increases in mpg when changing to lower weight oils compared to the grades used years ago.. e.g., going to 5W30 vs a 10W30. Again, easily lost in the 'noise.'
Driving techniques make a much bigger difference.
Any increase has been too small accurately measure or get excited about... maybe less than 1/2 percent. This increase gets lost in the other 'noise' of the daily grind.
There are very marginal increases in mpg when changing to lower weight oils compared to the grades used years ago.. e.g., going to 5W30 vs a 10W30. Again, easily lost in the 'noise.'
Driving techniques make a much bigger difference.
Originally Posted By: Silber Igel
Today .... conventional, blend, or synthetic .... an exactly similar grade should perform almost exactly the same as its cohorts. They meet the same specifications. Maybe there's some small tweeks in additive or formulation but the bottom line is a 5W20 will perform like any other 5W20 thanks to SAE/ILSAC qualifications.
Any increase has been too small accurately measure or get excited about... maybe less than 1/2 percent. This increase gets lost in the other 'noise' of the daily grind.
There are very marginal increases in mpg when changing to lower weight oils compared to the grades used years ago.. e.g., going to 5W30 vs a 10W30. Again, easily lost in the 'noise.'
Driving techniques make a much bigger difference.
My 07 Focus calls for 5-20 but I use 5-30EP and if there is a mileage loss I don't see it.
Today .... conventional, blend, or synthetic .... an exactly similar grade should perform almost exactly the same as its cohorts. They meet the same specifications. Maybe there's some small tweeks in additive or formulation but the bottom line is a 5W20 will perform like any other 5W20 thanks to SAE/ILSAC qualifications.
Any increase has been too small accurately measure or get excited about... maybe less than 1/2 percent. This increase gets lost in the other 'noise' of the daily grind.
There are very marginal increases in mpg when changing to lower weight oils compared to the grades used years ago.. e.g., going to 5W30 vs a 10W30. Again, easily lost in the 'noise.'
Driving techniques make a much bigger difference.
My 07 Focus calls for 5-20 but I use 5-30EP and if there is a mileage loss I don't see it.
agree. there are some horrendous claims out there (up to 5% increase in mpg) - but they are simply not true.
slowing down does help alot - although if you join the hyper miler club please dont make yourself a nuisance. one of my coworkers is proud of how slow he can drive and how many people he t's off. somewhere along the way this is gonna cause an accident as other drivers are simply not expecting that type of behavior
slowing down does help alot - although if you join the hyper miler club please dont make yourself a nuisance. one of my coworkers is proud of how slow he can drive and how many people he t's off. somewhere along the way this is gonna cause an accident as other drivers are simply not expecting that type of behavior
The difference between 50 and 75 mph is tremendous in mileage.
Originally Posted By: Bryanccfshr
The difference between 50 and 75 mph is tremendous in mileage.
If I keep my RX under 3000rpm on the highway,I get my best mpg.As soon as I get above that,my mpg drops.
The difference between 50 and 75 mph is tremendous in mileage.
If I keep my RX under 3000rpm on the highway,I get my best mpg.As soon as I get above that,my mpg drops.
With me RPMs have very little impact. In the mountains with my jeep I have found driving in a lower gear at 40-50 reving the engine up to 3500 yields better mileage than trying to push it to 65 even in a higher gear at lower RPM's. The main enemy is that compounding wind resistance.
Originally Posted By: callbay
Does anyone have any tests they can tell us about? It is said that synthetic gets better mileage but I wanted to know for sure.
Thanks!
I know I got a LOT better gas mileage from synthetic blend Motor craft then I ever did with Mobil 1 dino as well as full synthetic M1 and PP.
Does anyone have any tests they can tell us about? It is said that synthetic gets better mileage but I wanted to know for sure.
Thanks!
I know I got a LOT better gas mileage from synthetic blend Motor craft then I ever did with Mobil 1 dino as well as full synthetic M1 and PP.
I didn't notice a difference when I switched my 86 F-150 5.0 EFI from conventional to synthetic engine oil, but before I ever did that swap, I switched my transmission (NP435 4-speed) from the conventional that was in it to synthetic 75W-90, and I immediately noticed my gas gauge didn't drop as fast, and it's been great since then.
I do think you can get a difference if you do the transmission and rear end (I haven't done my rear end, yet). Maybe engine oil alone won't show much, IF ANY, increase in mpg, but doing the whole drivetrain along with it has helped others from what I've read.
I do think you can get a difference if you do the transmission and rear end (I haven't done my rear end, yet). Maybe engine oil alone won't show much, IF ANY, increase in mpg, but doing the whole drivetrain along with it has helped others from what I've read.
Interestingly, the new ILSAC GF-5 specs are going to be all about fuel economy, driven by the mfgs need to meet strict CAFE standards by 2014. They are looking to make motor oil a bona fide contributor to a 35mpg standard. It is my understanding M1 in the green cap 0w30 flavor is the only currently produced product to meet GF5.
Originally Posted By: 06VtecV6
Originally Posted By: callbay
Does anyone have any tests they can tell us about? It is said that synthetic gets better mileage but I wanted to know for sure.
Thanks!
I know I got a LOT better gas mileage from synthetic blend Motor craft then I ever did with Mobil 1 dino as well as full synthetic M1 and PP.
You realize that's impossible, right?
Originally Posted By: callbay
Does anyone have any tests they can tell us about? It is said that synthetic gets better mileage but I wanted to know for sure.
Thanks!
I know I got a LOT better gas mileage from synthetic blend Motor craft then I ever did with Mobil 1 dino as well as full synthetic M1 and PP.
You realize that's impossible, right?
No MPG difference between Dino and Syn of the same weight, but the thinner oil would yield several percentage MPG better than thicker oil.
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