Talk about 1/2 truths and snake oil like marketing

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Ok so we have known or a long time about droping ZDDP and general aditive levels for years now since SL was replaced. SO what took so long to get these guys to actualy have a product made and put it on the market? SInce they had break in lube supplements and assembly lubes why the packaged oil so late into the game? I mean their are a bunch of products now. I just got Muscle Car Review and anymore you can not open them or Mopar mag with out seing Brad Penn Break-In Oil,Z-Alt ZDDP+Molly Enahanced Muslce Car oil, Joe Gibs various Racing and Muslce Car Oils, Comp Cam Break-In oil, ROyal Purple Break-In oil etc........

I mean really when did Royal Purple decide that it's oils where so weak that they needed an oil specificly for the break-in of older car's? Why is Comp Cams assembly lube and Oil Break-In additive not enough when added to your exhisting oil?

I really do not have a prolem with a high ZDDP and Molly enhanced oil I just think it is insulting to ones intellegince to have multiple companies with multiple products that do the same thing. On top of that none of these last time I checked where any better inthe additive department then good old Redline 5W30.........We see some of these companies useing blends some just dino oil and some are full out synthetics yet they all claim their is the best!!!LOL

Out of all of them the only ones that ae remotely creadable are Joe Gibs Racing and Hot Rod Oil I mean really COmp Cams keeps Triboloists and Engineers on staff now? They really maintain a full on R&D section just dealing with oil and how it's additive chemistry could be tweaked to provide better break-in then their assembly lube and oil break-in supplement to be added to your oil that has been around since the late 1980's?????

None of them say much of anything but toss around buzz words like ZDDP and Molly and Propitary......I guess the word "Propiatary" must sound impressive to some people like some nit wit small company is going to have anything that Ornite couldnot think up or Lubrizol etc.....

I even say one mention that it had detergents in it!!! WOW

Z-Alt in the add anyways only listed 20W50 what are you going to use that in????I mean GM outside of it's performance parts catalogs has always poopoo'ed 20W50. THeir is a nice article in one of the older performance parts catalogs from GM on how to shim your stock oil pump to put out higher pressure prior to bypassing and why 20W50 was a good choice for the ZZ crate motors etc but that is another story......Who is going to run a 20W50 dino oil just because it has ZDDP and MOlly on the label in a car??? I mean what if you want to actualy start the thing in themiddle of winter? TO add insult to injury the can has a pull tab.....That makes me think South AMerica,Africa or some other third world source where that can style is still in use in both quart and 1/2 quart sizes.

I especialy like how they call them break-in oil what I cannot use it after break-in? WHat if I want an oil for the car as a daily driver?

One of these products I amnot sure if it is one of the above had the nerve to say "Not Street LEgal" like ZDDP and MOlly are some how illegal to use on a street driven vechiles....I can here the the knuckle draggers rattling their sabersnow "That is nothing man my oil isnot even legal for the street man!".....


They make it sound like they have some top secret propriatary additive chemistry added their super secret oil base stocks they they themselfs have developed to solve the plight of early camshaft wear from improper additives levels dureing break-in!

Who buys this dribble? This is not rocket science or even a tough thing to do. I mean Walmart's prefer WPP bottler could double their treat rate for their additive package in a 10W30 and call it Break-In oil or Hot Rod Oil etc.......

Out of the above if someone not already running a true synthetic with more then SM/GF-4 additive levels or a diesel oil Joe Gibs Hot ROd oil does have some unique things in it that few other's have. It is useing a compound that the Army Use's as well in it's oils so tha the oil is more resistant to varnishing in storage ie more oxidation resistant. Other then when MolaKule was blending his own oils I do not know of anyone that really has paid much atention to storage issues with reguard to their oil formulatons and additive packages. Mola used to have a hot rod additive that not only prevented varnishing during storage but also went further then anyone else to prevent rusting of the metal parts while in storage after the oil has ran off the parts. If I recall properly it had to do with some chemical that when you ran it produced a vapor that would seekout the metal and protect it from rusting after you shut it down.

Their are companies like Redline that have been making additives that beefed up your own oil with chemistry simalar to their that are far more concentrated and affordable then anything else I have seen on the market. If you are going to mail order an oil you can get their stuff like their 5W30 for $9.95 a quart with $9 bulk rate shipping reguardless of how much you buy 1 quart of 100 case's if you order fromt he right people!

Does this make anyone else mad to see all these people comeing to the game a day late and dollar short then useing slick creepy marketing to try to take advantage of people? If not for me I am sure my Dad would probably fall for this stuff!
 
Here's a little secret.......it isn't for any late model mass produced vehicle.

You don't need Joe Gibbs racing oil for your Toyota Camry.
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Wow, this is just funny. Royal Purples oil is a dino oil which is what a lot of people recommend for breaking in an old engine.
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It does not make me mad but thanks for the big laugh that you gave me. Also way to give your opinion before actually looking into anything. You are in school, but they must not teach you to research.
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Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
I mean really when did Royal Purple decide that it's oils where so weak that they needed an oil specificly for the break-in of older car's? Why is Comp Cams assembly lube and Oil Break-In additive not enough when added to your exhisting oil?


#1 - RP actually does not recommend that you use their regular synthetic oil until you have 2,000+ on a gas engine and 8,000-10,000 on a diesel. While I personally disagree with that it is their philosophy.

Originally Posted By: RoyalPurple
Can I put Royal Purple into my brand new car?

Yes. Royal Purple currently offers many viscosity grades of API-licensed motor oils. To allow for proper break-in of the engine, Royal Purple recommends waiting until the manufacturer’s first scheduled oil change or a minimum of 2,000 miles in new gasoline engines. Allow 8,000 to 10,000 miles before using Royal Purple in diesel engines.


#2 - Royal Purple's engine break in oil was designed because today's SM oils do not provide the protection needed at break in( in their opinion - I agree )AND because many people, inlcuding RP apparantly, feel you should break an engine in on conventional oil. They provided a product where they felt it was needed. Good for them.
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No one is saying if you use Comp Cam's assembly lube and break in additive that you also need to use RP Break In Oil. It is a case where you would use the assembly lube and then use the RP Break In Oil instead of the Comp Cam's additive in whatever oil you picked. Not sure why you are so upset about all of this? I don't get it? To me RP and these other companies you are mad at are actually doing a good thing. Stepping up and offering a product to fill a specific need due to a change in oil make up. I see no snake oil or unethical marketing?
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At least in regards to RP they are very upfront about their product and how/where they feel they should be used.

Originally Posted By: RoyalPurple
Royal Purple Break-in Oil

Engine builders have grown increasingly concerned that many modern motor oils do not provide adequate wear protection for new engines, particularly those using flat-tappet cams. Royal Purple has addressed this issue by developing a new engine break-in oil.

Royal Purple Break-in Oil is formulated to allow optimal ring seal and protect rotating assembly components such as the camshaft and valve train from initial start up wear. Royal Purple combines highly refined mineral oil, preferred for engine break-in, with advanced additives containing high levels of zinc and phosphorus to optimize protection in flat-tappet and roller engines.

Royal Purple Break-in Oil is fully formulated and does not require the use of any other chemical additives. Royal Purple recommends using their high performance motor oils after the engine is broken in for maximum engine performance.
 
so they all do the same thing?? no need for additives in todays super high tech oils from the shelves at china-mart?? maybe for a normal daily grocery getter 2005 or newer.

no need for specific 'break-in' oils?? have you broke in any flat tappet cams lately with any manufacturers' SM approved oil??

as for running a 'break-in' fluid full time...go for it. let us know how that works out for ya. but before you do, you might consider the composition. i can't recall the specifics, but i think it has something to do with it not being formulated to deal with the contaminates that accumulate in your engine oil during normal OC intervals. if i can find the info, i'll share it.
 
I try to keep this kind of issue simple. A good synthetic oil like Mobil-1, Amsoil, Redline or Shell III+, or whatever for most uses EXCEPT breaking-in any rebuilt engine. For rebuilt engine break-in, I use a name brand Dino (usually 5W30) and look for an SJ or SL rating...NOT SM. For just about any new car break-in, I drain the new oil at 1,000 - 1,500 miles. At that point, some use Dino and some go directly to a synthetic oil. Either way is fine.
I see no need for any break-in or special-use oil (Honda engines one of few possible exceptions)...or possibly a high mileage oil for vehicles over say, 175,000 miles.
Oh, and on older engines such as my Chrysler flathead 6's, I use a quality synthetic, non-SM rated oil.
 
so i've been looking for that info for over 30 minutes now with no results. however, it looks like it's ok to run a break-in additive in normal oils for regular use, but not ok to run a pan full of break-in oil. i'm thinking i'm on the right track with my previous recollection since 8-16oz of additive wouldn't defeat all the 'extended life' properties of the oil. i'll hunt again another day.
 
John, my man. Please, a few more periods and commas, and fewer run-on sentences. Please. We appreciate the thought you've put into this, but it's hard to read in its current form.
 
everything's going downhill JB, we're locked in a death spiral with the marketers for the last dollars of the masses before inflation and higher taxes come a knockin
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
I really do not have a prolem with a high ZDDP and Molly enhanced oil I just think it is insulting to ones intellegince to have multiple companies with multiple products that do the same thing.

It's called competition, every product you use MOST likely has some of it. Even the Monitor your reading this on has competition, could be dell, mac, hp. I don't know.
 
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