Synthetic vs. Blends vs. Dino and OCI

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Ok, this subject that gets talked bout in passing in almost every UOA thread. How does a person determine what oil and OCI to use given that the cost differences are so small. Example - Full synthetic at approximately. $5 per quart and 7K-10K OCI. Blend at about $2-$2.50 a quart and 5K OCI. Dino at about $1.50 a quart and 2K-3K OCI. Forget the oil filter cost. Good ones are under $3. In some of the recent UOA's the dino and blends have shown really good wear numbers. At the same time I have this bad feeling about running dino oils or even blends long term - visions of old engines full of sludge at 100K miles or less. What's everyone elses opinion on this? [ November 14, 2003, 11:43 PM: Message edited by: jsharp ]
 

GSV

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Depending on how you rack up your miles I'd wager you could go another 2000 on each of those intervals with a well running engine but you need to do these things in stages. {Assuming you do mostly highway driving} TooSlick has an interesting formula for calculating OCIs. Maybe he'll stumble onto this thread and post it. [Cheers!] [Patriot]
 
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J- I am with you on miles driven to oil quality correlation. What I do to determine OCI is go with a 6 month change, based on time and then adjust oil quality to meet the mile burden. 10,000-12,000mi year equals semi-synth twice a year, more miles equals full synth, up to 9,000 miles per change. Less than 10,000 miles yearly can get once-a-year with synth if they have a heated garage, or twice-a-year with good dino if left outside. I feel that time intervals are better for your car and one of the changes is always timed to the anual state inspection. Fall and Spring changes allow for the freshest oil for the most extreme heat and cold and allows a viscosity change for season, if desired. I would skew the costs a little higher or lower based on the value of the car as well. ftr- I have to change 3 times a year, I drive 20,000 miles, every 4 months equals 7000 miles per change on GC, newer car. Under no other circumstances do I want to change more than 2 times a year, 3000 mile OCI to save the cost of synthetic? No way. What people forget about is convenience. I could go for 7 oil changes a year for my 21,000 miles, but that would be stupid on a car that costs $50,000. Noone who pays that much for a car wants to go to the shop every 50 days. DIY is tough on cars that have a lower cowl too. [Frown] [ November 15, 2003, 02:22 AM: Message edited by: TSoA ]
 

jsharp

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Gsv - Agreed. I used those numbers because they were reasonable and to try to roughly equalize the costs. TsoA - Miles vs. time was one of the things that got me thinking about this. Last year my employer moved roughly 15 miles closer to my home and it cut my drving to work in half. I'm no longer putting 25K+ miles on my main vehicle every year.
 
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jsharp Over-the-counter blends are inferior when compared to the blends from Schaeffer's and Amsoil. I use Schaeffer's blends with great results even at 10,000 mile intervals. This interval was achieved with oil analysis confirming the oils ability to go 10,000.
 

jsharp

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quote:
Originally posted by Neil Womack: jsharp Over-the-counter blends are inferior when compared to the blends from Schaeffer's and Amsoil. I use Schaeffer's blends with great results even at 10,000 mile intervals. This interval was achieved with oil analysis confirming the oils ability to go 10,000.
The problem I have with those two brands around here is that no one keeps them on the shelf. By the time I pay shipping I'll be close the the cost of a full synthetic. I really wish both companies would pursue the normal retail sales channels. Also, there have been a couple UOA's recently with the Castrol Syntec blend and they looked pretty good.
 

jsharp

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quote:
Originally posted by JohnBrowning: The reduction in deposits and slight increase in gas millage really make a huge difference. IF you abuse your vechile then again you see a marked reduction in wear and deposits. The additves do more for anti-wear and exteme pressure then the base stock. It is like the difference between takeing car of your body versus letting it go. You will not see a marked difference in your life span but quality of life can be very different!
How clean the engine stays internally. This is something no one mentions much. I've seen engines with 200K miles on them that used Mobil 1 for most of their lives and they were clean inside. Possibly the modern dino and blends are as good in this area but I've yet to see it.
 
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Well your OCI and your driveing cycle will determine wich base stock is going to offer the greatest margin of return. The length of vechile ownership also plays a huge role. IF you only keep a car or truck 3-5 years and always change your conventional oil every 3000 miles and do not abuse your vechiles you would never see a difference between the different base stocks. Know if you tend to drive the same car or truck for 10 years or more and extend your OCI out to 5000-10000 miles depending on useage you will see a huge difference. The reduction in deposits and slight increase in gas millage really make a huge difference. IF you abuse your vechile then again you see a marked reduction in wear and deposits. The additves do more for anti-wear and exteme pressure then the base stock. It is like the difference between takeing car of your body versus letting it go. You will not see a marked difference in your life span but quality of life can be very different!
 
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quote:
Originally posted by jsharp: Ok, this subject that gets talked bout in passing in almost every UOA thread. How does a person determine what oil and OCI to use given that the cost differences are so small. -*-* What's everyone elses opinion on this?
What about cost per mile? Figure out what your or the "normal oil" gives per mile - 1.39 / 3500 miles= cost. Then figure the MPG average for say 30K with this oil = total $$$$$ for "X" miles and naturally do OUA's, take all repairs etc into account. Then Change brands, and do again; 4.59 / 8900 miles= etc. What I have found: MY opinion, is the cost that you save will be in the GAS for the most part, and for those higher quality oils you will be able to go several times longer in service life, thus reducing and equal or even save on the oil cost.... IMO you will see a $$$$ major savings if you A) have fleets B) put a lot of miles C) and or keep your car tuned the best you can at all times. Now on the part that get you in this is if there are major problems with leaks, it will cost you more, but with a better oil I think there is better protection. AS FOR FILTERS they can be entered into the picture, but unless I have a By-pass, I don't even include them for myself. Others can freely consider them. I for one, will change the filter based on my uneasieness not based on the time or the miles. When I have more problems, I change more filters, even though I know I'm wasting money I do it just because "I feel better", when I know the problems are gone, I'll go back to my extended filter changes... perhaps if I were more gifted with these UOA's then I could include the filters in there but still again, to me they will get changed no matter what and not a factor between quality oils.
 
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One last thing to consider. Most people that lease cahnge their oil once a year or they use the cheapest oil they can find and use the longest oil change interval they can. When people know that they will never own the car they mistreat the car or truck in every concievable way. Most treat them like rental cars!
 
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