Synthetic or Mineral What are the Benefits?

I started using Mobil 1 synthetic many years ago in my 87 Corvette. I found that the oil was significantly cleaner looking with the full synthetic after a few thousand miles. I never went back to regular oil except in my Honda's and things like that. I even used it in my 4 stroke Mercury outboard engines when very few people were using it. Years ago they said it was not good for a Mercury 4 stoke outboard to use synthetic oil and now lots of people are using it.
 
I started using Mobil 1 synthetic many years ago in my 87 Corvette. I found that the oil was significantly cleaner looking with the full synthetic after a few thousand miles. I never went back to regular oil except in my Honda's and things like that. I even used it in my 4 stroke Mercury outboard engines when very few people were using it. Years ago they said it was not good for a Mercury 4 stoke outboard to use synthetic oil and now lots of people are using it.
Or...Is the oil cleaner because it's not picking up containments?
 
Never judge an oil by its color. There's too many variables to make an accurate judgement of oil performance based on its color. I have a new oil on my desk here that's pretty well black right out of the bottle because it contains 1.85% sulfur. Still goes 5k+ miles with good TBN.
 
For a 5k oci, am I really better off using synthetic over a quality conventional like Pennzoil or Quaker State? Am I really getting any extra benefit?

For everyday driving, shorter oil change intervals, and overall motor longevity, there is no benefit whatsoever using a synthetic over a cheap conventional oil.

If you run your engine hard, overheat it, lose oil (blow a hole in the cases, etc), or are lazy and run double or triple miles past oil change intervals, then a good synthetic oil is the best choice.
 
For everyday driving, shorter oil change intervals, and overall motor longevity, there is no benefit whatsoever using a synthetic over a cheap conventional oil.

That's painting an hypothesis with a pretty broad brush.
 
Depends if the synthetic is cheaper than go with it. But at 5k you’re wasting halfway good oil. Not really anything to overthink here.
 
That's painting an hypothesis with a pretty broad brush.

I'm attempting an effort to make it as simple as possible to understand. I'm sure there are a few members here who can share their experience with 500,000+ mile motors using conventional oil.
 
Depends if the synthetic is cheaper than go with it. But at 5k you’re wasting halfway good oil. Not really anything to overthink here.
My experience with HyunKia GDI engines and the lack of an OLM has me changing at 5k. Divide by five. I'm running through a pack of $10 oil filter and rotate VWB coupons but a trial switch to the cheapest Wally World ST syn for winter is showing less oil use than the Valvoline. I won't be throwing those coupons away however.
 
My experience with HyunKia GDI engines and the lack of an OLM has me changing at 5k. Divide by five. I'm running through a pack of $10 oil filter and rotate VWB coupons but a trial switch to the cheapest Wally World ST syn for winter is showing less oil use than the Valvoline. I won't be throwing those coupons away however.
I am aware of the Hyundai/Kia issue. I would say if you’re following a severe oil change service regiment buy super tech or the havoline boxed bag oil conventional which more than likely will be a blend. either pick up off eBay or rock auto generic fleet style oil filters or super tech oil filters either way keep your receipts and document oil changes. They can not hassle you or void a warranty if the product meets or exceeds manufactures specs.
 
I am aware of the Hyundai/Kia issue. I would say if you’re following a severe oil change service regiment buy super tech or the havoline boxed bag oil conventional which more than likely will be a blend. either pick up off eBay or rock auto generic fleet style oil filters or super tech oil filters either way keep your receipts and document oil changes. They can not hassle you or void a warranty if the product meets or exceeds manufactures specs.
I believe 5W20 and 5W30 conventional are no more with API SP and ILSAC GF6-A requirements it seems that all the product lines that were hisorically conventional are now labeled syn-blend.
 
Also, there's conventional and then there's conventional. A Group I solvent processed base oil is a far cry from say a Chevron Group II+ severely hydro-processed "conventional" oil. The difference between a Group II+ base oil and Group III is probably not that significant for a 7500 OCI.
 
I believe 5W20 and 5W30 conventional are no more with API SP and ILSAC GF6-A requirements it seems that all the product lines that were hisorically conventional are now labeled syn-blend.
Although Super Tech is undoubtedly a blend, they still stick "Conventional" on the bottle, even though it's SP. Big debate on labeling -- people ***** on Amazon that Valvoline isn't selling "real" oil anymore. Haven't checked labeling on other WPP brands.
 
Although Super Tech is undoubtedly a blend, they still stick "Conventional" on the bottle, even though it's SP. Big debate on labeling -- people ***** on Amazon that Valvoline isn't selling "real" oil anymore. Haven't checked labeling on other WPP brands.
Yeah … Warren makes several Dexos lubes for private labels … and the base stock suppliers are moving away from Grp I and hit many new targets with Grp II+ etc … Or mixed it with Grp III etc …
 
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