synthetic oil ... I'm really torn now!!

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Other than the cost issue, I don't see any downside to running a good sythetic oil. That additional $$ is lost in the noise as far as long term operating costs. Maybe $250 in 200,000 miles. Honestly, I don't understand all the fascination with cheap oil. The exception being a beater...
 
Although you got dumped on for 16 inches a few weeks ago your winters, if I rememebr correctly, are not too bad. (lived in E. Providence a long time ago). However, you pointed out the primary advantage of synthetics, the cleanliness aspect. Normally you don't get the varnish build up and other crud associated with dino by running a synthetic.
 
I saw the insides of both my mom's olds 88 and my dad's blazer when they were getting the intake gaskets replaced, and both were sqeeky clean with 3,000 mile pennzoil changes; blazer with 130K and 88 with 95K. And my dad's blazer just had a full tune-up/engine inspection using an electronic engine analyzer. Compression was pefect, no loss what so ever from brand new specs, and everything else was perfect, so I think dino can do just as good as synthetic in terms of cleanliness and engine longevity.
 
I agree with drew99GT, I still say it's fun to change your oil.
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"Post hoc ergo proctor hoc". No way to know if the cleanliness was the result solely of the synthetic. Plenty of anecdotes for clean engines with dino. I think it's case by case, if you'd been looking in a Toyota sludgemonster it would have been a different story synthetic or not.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Matt89:
"Post hoc ergo proctor hoc". No way to know if the cleanliness was the result solely of the synthetic. Plenty of anecdotes for clean engines with dino. I think it's case by case, if you'd been looking in a Toyota sludgemonster it would have been a different story synthetic or not.

Very true. That said, as far as I know the Ford F-Series modular engines are not known to have any sludge problems. In addition. every F-Series UOA I've seen here with 5w-20 has been very good.

I maintain that a quality dino at a 4-5,000 mile OCI will, in most cases, be perfectly fine and enable the engine to outlast the sheet metal on the body.

What perplexes me is when people spend $5.00 - $8.00 / qt. for a synth then end up spending $$ for stuff like AutoRX and LC. Not that those products aren't very very good but really, then why shell out the $$ for the pricey motor oil?

Mikep
 
The group II+ oils are way better than the oils of 10+ years ago . The wear seems to be equal or very close to the syns if the pcmo oils are not run to long and the heavy duty motor oils are closer yet . But the quality syn. oils are cleaner and have advantages over the petros ,it is a never ending quest of the best oil .
 
Yes, I have that sneaky suspicion that even 3,000 miles OCI with oils 12-14 years ago will leave far more deposits than a modern SL. I have evidence of it on my valve cover.
 
quote:

Originally posted by BlackF250:
Now I am leaning towards going back to synthetic. I AM SO CONFUSED ... TOO MUCH INFO !!
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I just can't understand why it's so hard to comprehend? Is it becuase I'm biased?? Heck I don't know I guess this is why Oil is so much like religion. There are those that believe so much, and there are others that either couldn't care less or don't know weather to believe or not believe. And there are even others that believe but choose to write their own version and go off to Utah and start over.

Isn't that funny, it never really hit me until this post. I have known that the OIL subject was always a top like religion and politics, but this hits home.

What to believe, should I believe, does it matter to believe,

Man that Matrix movie really has me confused.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Steve S:
it is a never ending quest of the best oil .

The best (dino) oil would be Chevron Supreme. [please don't spam me! LOL]
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I hear what you're saying about being torn... when you see high mileage engines squeaky-clean using a synth oil, it's hard to argue against the evidence.
 
To BlackF250

What vehicle? If it is a Ford Modular motor, I've got three vehicles with those engines(two 6.8 litre V-10's and a 4.6 litre DOHC V-8) and I have been using Mobil 1 10W-30 with no problems.
 
I had pretty much made up my mind to stay with penzoil 5w20 until this weekend when I had the valve covers and intake off a 1999 Gmc Denali. (replacing the infamous GM leaking intake gasket) It has 83k on it and it was amazingly clean inside, no varnish or deposits at all! And guess what, the owner has used nothing but synthetic oil since the first oil change. Synpower I believe. Now I am leaning towards going back to synthetic. I AM SO CONFUSED ... TOO MUCH INFO !!
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With "Nu -Wingland" winters in "Ro-Diland"
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..I'd prefer the better flow of a 0w-x to a dino. Just my preference.

I used to live in Attleboro, MA ...not fah from heah (just over the R.I. line)
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quote:

Originally posted by Gary Allan:
With "Nu -Wingland" winters in "Ro-Diland"
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..I'd prefer the better flow of a 0w-x to a dino. Just my preference.

I used to live in Attleboro, MA ...not fah from heah (just over the R.I. line)
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@#$(*#$%^(*#$%^&^, I forgot to check the price of oil when I was in the big city Sunday. I did pick up a Purolator L15436 for $5.50.

Pep boys were nice about the dog. As usual I was in the big city for a dog outing. We took 10 of them to the zoo. Pepper barked back at the seals.
 
quote:

Originally posted by BlackF250:
Also I have been able to get the penzoil for $.68 on sale at pep boys!

Whoa
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. .68 cents / qt. for Pennzoil 5w-20? At that price I would definetely switch from my Chevron Supreme or Havoline. Heck, now I feel as though I'm being robbed
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.

Mikep
 
BlackF250 originally posted
quote:

have read on this site that the penzoil is an excellent group III oil

I've only read that dino 5w-20s are synthetic blends, i.e. mostly group II+ base oil???

If it's true that the Penzoil 5w-20 is group III, then for $.68 it's a great bargin.

[ December 23, 2003, 08:57 PM: Message edited by: guile ]
 
That was kind of my same dilemma when I had the intake gaskets changed on my 98 chevy truck about a month and a half ago. The mechanic said the inside of the engine he could see was as clean as it could be. I had run Mobil 1 most of the truck's life and had recently switched to Chevron Supreme. I decided to stick with the Chevron for now. My truck seems to like it better anyway.

Wayne
 
quote:

Originally posted by BlackF250:
JAKEBRAKE, It is a 2003 f250 super duty 4x4 with the 5.4 modular v-8. I currently have 3600 miles. I changed out the factory fill at 1900 with penzoil 5w20. The reason I am "torn" is because I know that synthetic will keep my engine very clean, but on the other hand I have read on this site that the penzoil is an excellent group III oil that has posted great UOA's. Also I have been able to get the penzoil for $.68 on sale at pep boys!

Wow..that is a great price for Pennz 5W-20, but I think it is a group II+ or a sunthetic blend, and not a group III oil. They would probably call it a synthetic if it was a group III. If Pennz 5W-20 works well for you then stay with it. I have a Super Duty like yours and an Excursion, both with V-10, and an 03 Mach 1 with 4.6 V-8. The weather gets cold around here in winter, and very warm in summer and the Mobil 1 10W-30 gives great cold starts and I like the idea of a slightly heavier oil for warmer weather. Good luck with whatever you choose...it's great to live in a part of the world where we can worry about such things!
 
JAKEBRAKE, It is a 2003 f250 super duty 4x4 with the 5.4 modular v-8. I currently have 3600 miles. I changed out the factory fill at 1900 with penzoil 5w20. The reason I am "torn" is because I know that synthetic will keep my engine very clean, but on the other hand I have read on this site that the penzoil is an excellent group III oil that has posted great UOA's. Also I have been able to get the penzoil for $.68 on sale at pep boys!
 
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