Synthetic bad for clutch?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 22, 2005
Messages
38
Location
SLO, CA
I've been using M1 5w40 TSUV or 15w50 red cap in my bike for thousands of miles, and many people I know are using synthetic of various brands and viscosities in their bikes, all with good results. Recently, someone told me this:

Quote:
Using synthetic WILL and DOES cause your clutch to slip. It also causes premature wear. I know this because I've experienced it as well as many of my friends and fellow racers/trackday junkies. I've also talked to many aftermarket clutch manufacturer's and they've said the same thing, in fact, my most recent issue with an EBC clutch was due to running synthetic. It was completely fried in under 5k miles. What normally could have been warrantied was denied due to the use of synthetic.


I've never heard this claim before and have a hard time believing it, as it directly contradicts my personal experiences. Am I indeed causing damage? Please comment!
 
What kind of bike are you using synthetic oil in?

Really, as long as the bottle doesn't say "Energy Conserving" then you should be fine. Sometimes you'll be fine even if it does say "Energy Conserving" but I (personnally) don't recommend it.
 
Last edited:
Sorry, forgot to mention the bikes. These are all UJM sport bikes with a wet clutch. Mine is a Honda VFR. There's also a GSXR and FZ1, amoung others.

Thanks!
 
Anything with Moly disulfide is potentially not good for your wet clutch. Problem is that moly counts are creeping up in HDEO oils that have been a favorite of motoheads. Exhibit 1A is Rotella CJ-4. Moly on analyses is up to high double digits which many think is not a huge deal but still....
I love Rotella, both 5-40 and 15-40 and I have a serious stash of CI-4 plus because of no moly. There are still a lot of quart bottles of the synthetic 5-40 rotella CI-4 + on the shelves where I live because it is slow selling because 99% of buyers get the gallon jugs and the quarts are still out there. I can find no 15-40 in CI4+ in any size, just the 5-40 syn.
Oh, and mobil 1 moto oil has moly numbers creeping up as well with the new formula. Higher that I would put in my bikes. Also not worth the really high price as well. Minimum of $8 a quart for the moto M1.
 
Last edited:
The problem here isn't synthetic it's friction modifiers. Making the horsepower and squeezing it through the smaller clutches that are immersed in oil does require a certain set of characteristics in the oil.

The better oils are more money for the bigger bikes. Oils like M1 V-Twin and Amsoil's Motorcycle oils are recently redesigned for this purpose.
 
I've used synthetics in my road race bikes for a long, long, long time. GSXR's, R6's, SV1000, ZX6R's, etc.

OEM clutches are better than the rest pretty much bar none. I have had bad luck with the kevlar ones in my personal bike and in other people's bikes that I've raced.

So, the problem may be more from an EBC clutch.

I've also used a lot of Shell Rotella T sythetic in those bikes with no problems with clutches, etc.

Like others said, it is the energy conserving oils that one should stay away from in a motorcycle application.
 
I use Redline 50-50 mix of MTL and MT90 in my Harley primary. Neither of those contain any moly and give great clutch feel and nice noise abatement. No slipping. The 50-50 gives you a 40w viscosity so you get no cold oil clutch drag either which Harleys are famous for.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Never had a problem with 1999 Suzuki TL1000S and ran Amsoil 10W40 M/C oil from 500 miles till 10,000 miles.Of course this bike uses crankcase oil for the clutch and tranny too. I also have Amsoil 10W40 M/C oil in my primary, 2001 HD Road King Classic(3holer). I have never felt a slip of any kind.
 
Originally Posted By: scudpilot
Never had a problem with 1999 Suzuki TL1000S and ran Amsoil 10W40 M/C oil from 500 miles till 10,000 miles.Of course this bike uses crankcase oil for the clutch and tranny too. I also have Amsoil 10W40 M/C oil in my primary, 2001 HD Road King Classic(3holer). I have never felt a slip of any kind.


+1 on the Amsoil 10w40. When I deplete my RL stash I am going to try the 10w40 because I believe that is the "ideal" viscosity for a Harley primary.
 
Yeah, synthetic oil is more "slippery" than conventional oil....? Check Mobil website they will set you straight. I always hear these "old" guys that swear you can't use synthetic oil to break in an engine. Hello? It's still oil!!! One is no more slippery than another. Synthetics withstand higher temps and harsher conditions, they are not more slippery. Keep repeating, "Not more slippery" High moly additives not withstanding, they can make the clutch slip under the right conditions.
 
Originally Posted By: wileyE
Synthetic's can have a lower traction coefficient than the lower groups. Making the additive package even more important to prevent wear. http://www.valvoline-technology.com/upload/dynamic/Diesel Engine Cam Galling.pdf


Excellent article.

Generally speaking, this is why Harley Davidson would not recommend a full synthetic oil for their engines. Right or wrong, one of the reasons cited was crankshaft roller-bearing "skate".

Of course, the 'other' theory was that Harley did not market a synthetic oil and therefore would not recommend one. Can't make no money off something you're not selling, right?

Still, the article gives some good data. Hopefully, this gets to "those that know" who formulate all the various motor oils that we use.
 
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Originally Posted By: wileyE
Synthetic's can have a lower traction coefficient than the lower groups. Making the additive package even more important to prevent wear. http://www.valvoline-technology.com/upload/dynamic/Diesel Engine Cam Galling.pdf


Excellent article.

Generally speaking, this is why Harley Davidson would not recommend a full synthetic oil for their engines. Right or wrong, one of the reasons cited was crankshaft roller-bearing "skate".

Of course, the 'other' theory was that Harley did not market a synthetic oil and therefore would not recommend one. Can't make no money off something you're not selling, right?

Still, the article gives some good data. Hopefully, this gets to "those that know" who formulate all the various motor oils that we use.


HD diesel engines really doesn't seem applicable to motorcycle engines, apple/oranges?

///
Non-site sponsor link


AMSOIL Synthetic Oils: Slipperiness and Wet Clutches

As a side note, we have received many reports of motorcycle shops telling customers that synthetic oil is so slippery that is causes roller bearings not to roll and will result in flat spots on the roller bearings. This is absolutely not true. Synthetic oil is no more “slippery” than petroleum oil. Synthetic oil is more uniform in molecular structure than a petroleum oil but it is not more slippery and will certainly not cause roller bearings to roll. Roller bearings will roll whether they are using petroleum oil or synthetic oil and the only way the roller bearing on the rocker arm will ever stop rolling is if the needle bearings that support the roller bearing failed. Every automotive racing engine (as well as many other types of high performance engines) and most of today’s high performance automobile engines use camshafts with sophisticated roller rockers with absolutely no problems of this nature whatsoever.

We have also received reports of motorcycle shops telling customers that synthetics are so “slippery” as compared to petroleum oils (which simply do not reduce friction as well) that wet clutch packs in their motorcycle transmission and even their automatic transmission of their cars and trucks will slip when using “slippery synthetics” even if there are no friction modifiers present. This is absolutely not true.

Look at it this way. Wet sandpaper removes paint as well as dry sandpaper does. The slipperiness of the water does not impede the sandpaper's ability to function. The same applies to the slipperiness of synthetic lubes in wet clutches. It is simply not an issue. However, just as rinsing the sandpaper keeps it cleaner longer so it functions better longer, so the synthetic lubricant keeps wet clutch plates cleaner longer so they function better. And, since synthetics are superior cooling agents to conventional petroleum lubes, using synthetics will help wet clutches last longer, too.

Petroleum oils have low resistance to heat and allow varnish and glaze to form on clutch plates, which can lead to slippage and increased heat generation and potential failure of the clutch pack. Synthetic oil is going to allow your wet clutches to perform better (especially under extreme heat, RPM and load conditions) and last longer than they would with petroleum oil subjected to the same operational conditions.

As a side note in respect to Automatic Transmission Fluid: synthetic ATF is not more “slippery” than petroleum ATF. The base fluids, whether or not petroleum oil or synthetic oil, play no direct role in the relative friction levels of wet clutches. The friction-modifying additives developed for petroleum oils work just as expected in synthetic PAO’s fluids. The longer the fluid resists oxidation, the longer the original frictional properties remain. The superior oxidative stability demonstrated for synthetic ATF’s thereby leads to extended retention of frictional properties.

///



Drew
 
I posted the link to show that there is some truth in the slippery debate, it's not totaly myth despite what oil marketeers web sites say. Is it a problem fro clutches, not likely.

The marketeers are also to blame for the slippery synthetic rumors IMO. Yes even amsway. Early on they are the ones that made all the low friction and better mpg claims and even advised against break in. Some these claims still exist today with some brand followers. Claims of more power and better mpg, yet denying any difference in friction coefficient. One of the claims isn't true, or is just purely exaggerated.

Apple-oranges. Sure, but a harley is more like the diesel than many higher revving gas engines. The cam and cam bearings turn at 1/2 engine speed which is quite slow. A stationary diesel may run at 1800rpms with cam speeds of 900. Under what it takes for the parts to get up on a oil plane. A harley is capable of more rpms, but in reality most are used just loping around at diesel like rpms. Why for both it's important to have as much protection from the basestock and antiwear add as possible. Being synthetic doesn't equate into better protection in this regime.
 
The engine oil in a H-D engine is also used in the transmission. That's where HDEO with zinc applies to the motorcycle engine.

Synthetics on the primary side on an H-D engine is different than many other counterparts. In others, the engine, transmission, and clutch oil is shared. In my air cooled H-D/Buell application, the clutch has separate oil. I would agree that there's no clutch slippage problem with synthetics, but I have heard that there has been some delamination of the stator with the use of synthetics and that is why they don't have or recommend it. Maybe someone has more data on that, but that is my understanding.
 
Originally Posted By: SD26
The engine oil in a H-D engine is also used in the transmission. That's where HDEO with zinc applies to the motorcycle engine.

Synthetics on the primary side on an H-D engine is different than many other counterparts. In others, the engine, transmission, and clutch oil is shared. In my air cooled H-D/Buell application, the clutch has separate oil. I would agree that there's no clutch slippage problem with synthetics, but I have heard that there has been some delamination of the stator with the use of synthetics and that is why they don't have or recommend it. Maybe someone has more data on that, but that is my understanding.


Do you mean that the engine oil (may) be used in the transmission?
 
Originally Posted By: kballowe

Do you mean that the engine oil (may) be used in the transmission?

In air cooled Buell's and Sporties, the engine and transmission oil is shared. The bigger stuff, you probably know more than me.
 
Originally Posted By: Drew2000
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Originally Posted By: wileyE
Synthetic's can have a lower traction coefficient than the lower groups. Making the additive package even more important to prevent wear. http://www.valvoline-technology.com/upload/dynamic/Diesel Engine Cam Galling.pdf


Excellent article.

Generally speaking, this is why Harley Davidson would not recommend a full synthetic oil for their engines. Right or wrong, one of the reasons cited was crankshaft roller-bearing "skate".

Of course, the 'other' theory was that Harley did not market a synthetic oil and therefore would not recommend one. Can't make no money off something you're not selling, right?

Still, the article gives some good data. Hopefully, this gets to "those that know" who formulate all the various motor oils that we use.


HD diesel engines really doesn't seem applicable to motorcycle engines, apple/oranges?

Drew


Well it sorta depends on the motorcycle, and the concept is still valid.

For example - Harley engines have pushrods and rocker arms. The Yamaha Road Star, Raider, Road Star Warrior, Roadliner, and Stratoliner also have pushrod engines. Same for Moto Guzzi and some others.

Many of these are set up on roller valve trains. They share similarities in valve train design as the diesel engines in the previous article.

In my mind, the point of the article was that conventional oil had better "traction" than synthetic oil...... and that blenders of synthetic oil for HD diesel use need to take this into account.

For what it's worth, there are a lot of oil manufacturers that offer diesel-specific oils. The oil analysis results of these oils (e.g. Rotella, Delvac, Delo, etc.) when used in motorcycle crankcases produces excellent results. Much better than their automotive counterparts.

But back to the original topic.... no - the vast majority of modern PAO-based synthetic oils (NON-Energy Conserving) will NOT make your clutch slip.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top