Syntec 10-30

[haley10]

Ok guys, I'm new to the forum so take it easy on me.

I have a 3.8L Buick 2000 Regal no SC. I have always run Syntec, but just put M1 10-30 in. Too bad I don't have any uoa's to offer. I love both, but I know I'm wasting money since this engine is so easy on oil anyway.

I traded my old Buick with 200K (still going fine) with GTX 5-30 it's whole life, so I know syns aren't necessary for me.

I put GTX 10-30 in once, but things weren't as smooth (noiser). I also like the easy starts at our occasional zero to 10 below F.

Please help me to save some money and convince me not to run M1. I need help. Still have 5 qts. of Syntec (maybe I'll do a uoa for info).

I've read this forum a lot and I know Syntec isn't well received. M1 has become cheaper here believe it or not anyway so why bother, but I like both.

Please convince me to run a low $$ conventional. What works for you??

 

[buster]

haley10, using a good dino oil like Chevron or Pennzoil at 3-5k mile drains is absolutely good enough. Both of these will and do match M1 and Amsoil's performance in wear for 3-5k mile drains. I can't tell you how many people that I know that have hit the 300k mark using just regular oil.

Now if your going to beat on the car and subject it to longer drains or more intense driving, go up an SAE grade to a 40wt if your going to stick with regular oil, or run a good synthetic. Walmart carries 5qt jugs of all Mobil 1 grades which I feal are the best buy in oils right now, along with Amsoil's 5w/10w-30 line of oils. Bottom line though is you don't need a good synthetic unless you car falls under the category I mentioned.

Pennzoil and Chevron have shown outstanding numbers (which are nit picked to death to begin with) and I would use one of those.

 

[geeeman]

Synthetics have a couple of advantages, which may or may not be important to you.

Longer drain intervals.
Better flow characteristics at EXTREME cold temps.
Better heat resistance at EXTREME high temps.
Long-term engine cleanliness (debatable...)

Realistically, 95% of the cars out there will perform very well for a very long-time with conventional oils changed REGULARILY, ie 3000-5000 miles.

 

[haley10]

Hmm, I might go back to Castrol GTX based on past history. It does cold start ok, but I don't like the thinning to a 20 wt. I see in uoa's. for summer.

I want a conventional to cold start good and also maintain it's viscosity. Castrol is fine for cold start and zero consumption, but it does thin out.

Can I do better??

 

[Will]

I use the German Castrol Syntec 0w30 in my 3.8 SC 1998 Grand Prix and it performs very nicely, I'm a converted Mobil 1 user. If you search for german syntec, you'll see how it differs from the other viscosity Syntecs

I use GTX High Mileage in my fathers 3.8 Trans Sport van with good success. Its a little thicker than the regular stuff, its actually a very good oil. If I didn't drive my GTP in a very performance-like manner I would use GTX HM in it as well.

 

[TSoA]

quote:

---

Synthetics have a couple of advantages, which may or may not be important to you.

Longer drain intervals.
Better flow characteristics at EXTREME cold temps.
Better heat resistance at EXTREME high temps.
Long-term engine cleanliness (debatable...)

---

Is this necessarily true? I am not an expert reading UOAs but some published specs and VOAs of the new Hi-Mi oils look pretty good. Can't a bland Gruppe III synth with a weak additive pack be outdone by a blend of esters and GII+ like Syntec Blend, Pennzoil HMV or Schaffers? Isn't the best iso-syn Chevron Supreme actually better than a bogus hydro-cracked synth, that it's basestock resembles closely? I'm starting to like the GTX HM for a long-term answer for cars that see medium-duty.

[ January 01, 2004, 05:50 PM: Message edited by: TSoA ]

 

[GT Mike]

After reading the reviews on Scheaffer's oil here, and some prodding by my buddy at the speed shop, I started running the Schaeffer's #703 semi-synthetic 10W30 in my '97 Grand Prix GT and couldn't be happier. I was a lifelong Amsoil fan too.

 

[Drew99GT]

Pretty much all dino 5w-30s thin to a 20 weight in 3,000 miles; it's just a side affect of formulating a wide viscosity index with cheaper base stocks. So, how about 5w-30 in winter and 10w-30 in the summer? That seems the most logical plan to follow for dino users, unless it stays above 20 degrees F consistantly in the winter. Also, the 5w-30 high mileage oils seem to be good for winter use. From the UOA reports here, they also thin like regular 5w-30, but because they start out on the thicker end of the 30 weight scale, they end up after 3,000 miles at the viscosity that regular 5w-30 starts with. I've had great success with 5w-30 pennzoil HM and Castrol 5w-30 HM in terms of better oil pressure at hot idle compared to regular 5w-30.

 

[mikemc]

Haley, I live one state north of you and I use dino oil all year in my wife's 2003 Cvalier. It is garage kept so cold starts in the morning are not a real issue. I like Chevron Supreme or its cousin, Chevron Havoline. 5w30 in cold weather, 10w30 in warm weather. If your car stays outside, a 5w30 synthetic may be better for December-February, but not really necessary for all year use.

 

[FordSVTGuy]

I also used to buy Mobil 1 for both of my cars, a 2002 Explorer and a 1999 Taurus. I was changing the oil at 5,000 mile intervals so the cost was kind of high when you consider that we each put 20,000 miles per year on our vehicles. I read many of the UOA posts here for Chevron Supreme and Havoline and made the switch. Now I do oil changes at 4,000 miles and spend less than half the money.
My cars run the same, have almost equal protection, the oil filters are on the cars for 1,000 less miles. I honestly believe that the rest of the cars will die before the engines will...

 

[geeeman]

The performance gap between synthetics and premium conventional oils has never been closer...

Are synthetics really worth it...?

Here in Alberta, Canada , M1 is about $7.00 liter (Cdn) , most premium conventional oils are under $3.00 (Cdn). Pennzoil 10W30 is on sale at $5.99 per 4 liter jug at Walmart...

But...it is supposed to be -33c tonight (-27f), and I now have over 4000 miles on the oil and probably won't find the time to change it for weeks, and I average about 750 miles a week...

So maybe synthetic oil is worth it...

Who really knows...????!!!???!!!

 

[TSoA]

Geeman, COLD winter duty or extra-long oci is the only full syn advantages I can think of. For the 5000-6000 mile crowd, semi-synth, Hi-Mi oils seem fine with me.

 

[2KBMW]

Haley10. I have a 97 Regal that
I use regular oil, 5w30 in winter and 10w30
in summer. If you change at 5000 km (3000 mi)
then you won't have any problems. I use Castrol
Syntec in my BMW and change at 8000km (5000mi).
Castrol Syntec is a good oil. It is a mixture
of highly refined group III hydro treated(99.9%)
pure base and chemical esters that bond to engine
parts. The esters have a negative charge that
attracts to the positive charged metal. No one
seems to talk about this on this forum. The new
updated oils are supposed to be A5 rated oils
for longer drains.

 

[geeeman]

TSoA...

Jet engines use synthetic oil for heat resistance...maybe all turbos should too...no?

 

[TSoA]

Geeman, most over-the-road trucking uses turbo diesels and 15w-40 HDEOs.

 

[haley10]

Thanks for all the replies.

I realize I have been paying way too much attention the the absolute spec. sheet number and thought semi-syns had no value based on the numbers. (Yep I read the motor oil bible).

I will probably give the HM or semi-syn a try after the Winter is over. I'll probably stay with M1 for winter.

I don't understand why Syntec sells at such a premium to M1 here. It's everywhere, but almost no one uses it. Way to pricey.