syn vs. dino specific high-mileage Sentra case

[Wanderer9]

Hey all, this site rocks. I finally registered, and, yes, after a search decided I must ask the Great Forum my question(s).

I have a 1994 Nissan Sentra XE bought new in 1995 (Canadian). GA16DE engine, runs great, got it last year off my friend's dad (original owner) and it had been babyed all along its 251,000 kms.

I've got it up to 291,00 kms now (it loves the highway, this car...) and it doesn't seem to burn or leak any oil at all (never need to add any between changes). It ran with 10w30 dino oils most of its life; last winter I put in some 5w30 after we got some extreme cold and I ended up not being able to start (oil too thick I think).

I have tried pennzoil high-mileage oil but I dont think I need it since the oil doesnt burn or leak and after 5000 kms isnt even blackened yet, just a ittle darker. A mechanic told me to stick with 10w30 rather than the 5w30; his opinion is that the lighter oil will allow greater wear. I'll just get a little magnetic block heater for those extreme cold days. All winter, otherwise, it starts just fine (some new sparkplugs helped that). When I look inside the engine from the top, it looks pretty clean in there.

OK, here goes:
I have read a lot about oils here and there, in general and specifically in the GA16DE engine. On sentra.net, Mobil1 syn. is recommended. But I dont need to race my car, its got a baby seat in the back!

I also need to have this car last as long as possible (the body and frame are in great shape)

I am trying to figure out if there is an advantage to switching to synth or synth.-blended oils with this car. I dont think the engine needs cleaning (if it aint broke dont fix it) but I do like to floor it sometimes, so a possible slight performance increase without compromising lifespan is what I am thinking. Also, can I run the synth. or blended oils longer than a regular dino OCI? IS there any need to run high-mileage oil given the good state of the engine?

Thanks for any thoughts on this. I am between changes and am thinking of starting to do them myself

, so that also may offset the cost of synthetics. From what I see on the forum, the cold-weather problem can be taken care of this way as well, and also the problem of changing oil in mid-winter (I figure on throwing on a Purolator pureONE filter at the same time so I can go longer, the filter is TOUGH to reach on your back on the street beside the curb

).

Regards

Dan

 

[eljefino]

Synthetic changed yourself beats dino changed by someone else... and for more than one reason!

Get dirty and tell us how it goes!

 

[Wanderer9]

Yep I think I will! This is my first car even though I've got 10 years driving experience, so having zero mechanical background every 'new' step is a bit intimidating. But I'm gonna go out and buy a torque wrench and just give 'er.

BTW, seems the service manual recommends 5W30 for all temps. in this car. Wondering if a 5W30 syn will be OK for fall and winter...? Or is it too thin?

 

[Steve S]

Lets see, the car has 291,000km on petro oil,what would be gained by changing to a syn oil? except for cold starting ,but also cold affects the battery also.

[ September 28, 2004, 11:03 AM: Message edited by: Steve S ]

 

[TallPaul]

quote:

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Originally posted by Wanderer9:
I'll just get a little magnetic block heater for those extreme cold days.

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Search for Wolverine Oil Pan Heaters. I have one of their 250 watt pads. It self adhesive sticks to the oil pan. Had mine a couple years now. I did the precaution of a GFCI outlet and fuzed it to 3 amps incase of a short. I plug in all the time if below freezing.

 

[Patman]

quote:

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A mechanic told me to stick with 10w30 rather than the 5w30; his opinion is that the lighter oil will allow greater wear.

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Time to find a new mechanic! I've noticed that a lot of mechanics out there know very little about lubrication. That's why I like it when we get mechanics joining this site, as that shows they truly want to learn more about motor oil, instead of giving outdated or downright erroneous advice to their customers.

It's sad to say that even a lot of high end engine builders give out the wrong advice to their customers too, such as telling them to use cheap 20w50 dino oil in their $20,000 race motors.

 

[dustyjoe1]

quote:

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BTW, seems the service manual recommends 5W30 for all temps. in this car. Wondering if a 5W30 syn will be OK for fall and winter...? Or is it too thin?

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I think a good 5w30 dino such as pennzoil, chevron, motorcraft and others will do just as well all year round. Especially in the canadian cool climate. Additionally you will reap slight fuel savings vs the 10w30. Also, I think you will get less wear from the 5w30 due to faster oil flow at start-up.

 

[haley10]

Hmmm.... In Montreal, I cannot see running a 10W-30 in anything during the extreme Winter. I know you all had some cold temps. last year. Even real synthetic 10W-30's don't cold crank so well in real Winter.

After 10 years and 291,000km., You might have some issues, by just immediately going to a syn. There could be oil consumption and seal leak issues. You should do some research before jumping on the Syn bandwagon at this point.

I would probably stay with a good dino 5W-30 for Winter, maybe with the heater like you suggested and 10W-30 for the warmer months.

I'm a synthetic user myself, but for your situation, I'd probably stick with a quality dino like Pennzoil or Castrol myself. Regular, not Hi-Mileage stuff in 5W-30 for below freezing temps.

 

[Ugly3]

Mobil 1 0w30 and an oil pan or tank heater.

 

[Wanderer9]

Thanks for the help everyone.

I've decided to go with dino: 10W30 when its hot out and 5W30 when its cold.

My next change is due probably in about a month or so; I bought the oil (Castrol GTX 5W30, newer bottle) and some genuine Nissan filters and will give it a go then.

 

[Brett Miller]

A friend of mine ran a Sentra to 265,000 miles using 15W-40, Fram filters and changing every 10,000 miles. The motor still ran well the the frame rusted to pieces.