Syn grease recommendation for small needle/roller U-joint?

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LM

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The Amsoil NLGI #2, Heavy Duty Grease with moly.

Several local VW shops us it for CV boot replacements on VW/Audi vehicles.

TS
 
LM,

George is 100% correct...I was thinking this was a CV joint application and not a high temp bearing.

Moly disulphide based greases can cause corrosive wear in high temp applications and should not be used. The are excellent for high load, low temp applications like chassis lubrication or farm equipment greasing.

The Amsoil Series 2000 racing grease would be their best product to use here. Very expensive, but you probably don't have to lube this part very often.

TS
 
I would look into moly-free PL-10 from MPC. With a dropping point above 500F, a weld load of 500kgf, and a washout of 3.2, it is an impressive grease. I've started to use it my wheel bearings and am very happy. It is very smooth and a very nice yellow color (reminds me of butterscotch pudding).

The Amsoil 2000 would be my close second choice.
 
Thanks all. What about Stant or Petron polyurea (had them annotated in some old notes)? The PL-10, S2000, and Schaeffers look good
 
Yes, George is 100% correct. The Mobil 1 Synthetic grease is great for the wheel bearings on a 2WD vehicle and I am a firm believer in synthetic lubricants. However, for wheel bearings and universal joints, I use either Chevron Delo EP #2 or Mystik High-Temp. #2. Both are Lithium Complex and the specifications are actually better than Mobil 1. Moly is, as George Morrison states, for special applications such as CV joints and it's probably best, also for the lower balljoints on a 2WD. Boat trailer bearings are a different matter. Likely alumnium complex is best. What I'm saying is simply that different applications call for different grease. That's why there are different bases and formulas. There are some experts on this forum. I've found it best to listen to them and do research on manf. websites, use my own nearly 50 years experience working on vehicle maintenance and repair and make informed choices. Common sense will tell you who knows and who's got an agenda on Bob is the Oil Guy. I do know this: Some of these posters are true lubrication experts. Morrison's one of them.
 
certain types of moly does cause corrosion but not all. george is not 100% correct. i can get a chemist that will disagee with him on cetain things. ep stands for extreme pressure. moly is an extreme pressure additive. as for grease, if not water proof, then moly, zinc, phos or what ever they use for ep will not hold up. that is why you want to use an ep additive that has a water proof holding agent. syn or otherwise, it will milk up with water and wash out all the ep addive. alot say water resistant, not water proof. keep that in mind when looking for a grease. here are some test results you might want to look at.
web page

you can read this and it might help you on greases.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000164

[ August 02, 2006, 03:33 PM: Message edited by: BOBISTHEOILGUY ]
 
George is only partly right and disingenious about "moly" causeing roller breaing failures in that he is not giveing all the info.

Moly is OK in Most roller bearings Unless at
used at >3%wt.

Then there may be problems BUT not as bad as he says Sorry to disagree with George But problems are very application specific and he did not mention what type of grease or % moly in the failed U joints on his desk for all I know it was a crappy moly grease with a low vis base oil or crappy soap that was the problem not the "moly".

And I'm a 32 year CLS so take it or leave it.
bruce
 
In cases where the grease will be refreshed (i.e. non-sealed areas), can the solid moly eventually build up to quantities great enough to cause problems? Even if a 3%wt grease is used?

I could see how this might happen since moly burnishes itself into the metal and when the new grease is introduced, the old moly will still be there.
 
moly will not build up. moly is the slickest stuff you can have. it goes on as a glass as it heats up on metal sufaces, it will only allow so much on it and then quits. it will not continue to transfer heat that is required for moly to plate up. so the cooler it is the less moly is used. that is why when you shear though moly (which happens) then it is replaced with new moly otherwise it just passes by.
 
George is not 100% correct. Ford specs. moly grease for front wheel bearings on most of their rear wheel drive vehicles from the 80's on. Chrysler specs. it for some wheel bearings also. I also have used it in class 8 trucks for years (chassis and u-joints) as well as on everything that gets grease on my personal vehicles with no problems ever.
 
A wiser person would give in...but: Concerning Ford RWD & 4WD vehicles. I owned a 1993 short bed 1/2 ton 6 cyl. 4x4 F-150. Original U-joints were replaced at I'm not against Moly. I use it in specific applications such as caradan joints, sliders and CV joints with excellent results.
In conclusion, some say "Use Moly in U-Joints and wheel bearings." Some like Mr. Morrison say, "Never!, for Universals." The only time I've heard an expert say "Don't use Lith Complex EP #2," in such applications is in boat trailer wheel bearings.
 
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