Switching to Supertech Full synthetic 10-30 Ok to do?

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Mar 22, 2004
Abilene, TX
Hello everyone, I have a 1998 toyota t-100 truck that I am about to switch from PZ 10-30 to Supertech 10-30 I have run Wix in the past but also am about to change to Supertech filters. The engine is the 6 cylinder and has 87000 miles on it. I plan on keeping this truck till it dies. Other than using a better filter, this is the most that I can afford to put in the vehicle. Question #1 Am I making an improvement in switching to the synthetic,and is the supertech filter good enough or do I need to stick with WIX or OEM filters? Question #2 I hit 3 months before 3000 miles. What if any can I extend my drain interval to? Thank you very much for your help I am very apprecitative of all that I have learned on this forum. Mike (trying to stay ahead of the learning curve!) [ April 03, 2004, 01:47 PM: Message edited by: Bushman ]
Bushman, First of all let me be clear that I am NOT an oil expert - luckily for all of us there are several of those guys that post here regularly. Based on what I've learned here at bobistheoilguy, I would say the ST oil filter is just fine. For an economically priced oil that's as good as any dino, use Chevron Supreme. Regarding the oil change interval, I see no need to change every 3 months or 3,000 miles. In my opinion,it should be safe to go 6 months or 5,000 miles, whichever comes first. Hopefully, others with more knowlege than me will add to this discussion. Stan
Bushman, Going to a decent "full" synth such as ST or any other Group III oil is definitely not a bad choice. Filter-wise, for drain intervals of 7500miles or less, ST isn't a bad choice whatsoever. For drains exceeding that, I'd look at Wix, Amsoil, M1, etc... Looks like you'll need to weigh the cost of the different scenarios. Supertech "full" synth is $11 + $2 for a filter than can go 5-7K (a UOA is absolutely needed here to determine how far you can stretch it). Supertech Dino $4.17 + $2 for a filter runs about half the ST "full" synth cost. Then again, you can only go half as far with the dino as you can the synth, so you'll be under the truck more often. Then again, to many of us here, that's not so bad! [Smile] The choice is yours... [Cheers!]
T&S thanks for the advice. I think I will stick to the combo of ST filter and "full synthetic" for now. I will extend drain interval to every six months and Will get an UOA at about 5 months to see how I am doing, does that sound reasonable?
Sounds like a good plan! Auto-Rx worked well for me switching to synth at 100K, if you can flip the expense, it's well worth it. It will extend the life of the oil, too. (Dislaimer: I didn't get paid for that, just a happy customer! [Smile] )
I'd consider a diesel-rated (15w-40) oil for one or two quick intervals before you switch to a normal synthetic to clean things up a bit considering the mileage on your truck. Another alternative is to go strait to synthetic, but a diesel-rated one like Rotella T Synth 5w-40 for a short while. Maybe a good combo would be the heavier 15w-40 now and the 5w-40 later in the fall. Mobil 1 SUV 5w-40 (diesel) being the ultimate oil to settle on. [Big Grin] I like the strict 6-month change interval eventually, after the quickie flush/clean cycle. I dunno if Supertech is up to extended drains, I am still trying to figure out how thick it is at +100c. Price is great, but I'd part with the extra $ for jug-size Mogul 1, it has a proven track record.. [ April 03, 2004, 10:44 PM: Message edited by: Audi Junkie ]
Hey Bushman, I ran the ST 10W30 Full Syn to 7000 miles with good results in my Ranger. You could change it twice a year with the miles you put on that vehicle. Once before winter and once before summer [Smile]
Rotella T vs Supertech. Seems that the price is within about a dollar of each other. I have already gone and changed the oil this time with the ST today and the ST filter. Seems like a really REALLY good filter. I will let this batch run for 4 months I guess and then go to the higher detergent? Rotella T? or is there any use to do that at this point? So many good suggestions have confused me! I do suspect that the engine is pretty dirty because the area of the engine around the filler cap has some sludge/crusty deposit on it. I also had the transmission flushed with 30 quarts of Castrol ATF fluid today at the local shop. It almost looked like used motor oil! They said that they had seen much worse, like chunks coming out of the tranny fluid, but I thought it was pretty bad! I guess that the person before me had pulled a trailer with it or something. So It seems that things are going pretty good with the transmission now. Is there anything that I need to watch out for on the transmission? Moderators, sorry for the off topic bit there. As moderator for www.candlepowerforums.com I know that can get kinda old! Again, behind CPF, this has got to be the most friendly forum on the net!!!! [ April 03, 2004, 11:43 PM: Message edited by: Bushman ]
Good work on the ATF. If you have consumption, switch to a heavier weight or try Mobil 1 10w-30. A quart of M1 15w-50 added to the 30 weight is a good plan too, especially in summer.
Personally I would not use the SuperTech oil filter designated for your truck. The ST3614 filter has a "clicker" type bypass valve, and that design doesn't make sense. You may want to do a search on discussions regarding this type of bypass valve. Better yet, cut one open and try to get the bypass valve to open up. You'll see what I'm talking about.
A late reply but - I'd try the Rotella T 5W-40 synthetic. You can buy it for under $13 a gallon at Walmart. I don't see any reason you'd want to use a 15W-40 dino in a Toyota V6 unless your consumption is really excessive and it slows it substantially. I don't imagine it would use any less of that than the 5W-40 though...
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