Switching to Green from dexcool after 150,000m+

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2004 Silverado 1500 5.3L V8 150,000 Miles

Hi guys,

My truck just ate its second water pump. The OEM pump lasted about 120,000 miles and for about 10-11 years, then the second pump was installed and lasted for about 25-30k and only 2-2.5 years.

That being said, I still dont understand completely why it failed. I had accidentally left the coolant overflow reservoir cap loose (its the only fill cap on this type of system). My battery died and I had the truck jump started. Then I proceeded to flash the throttle several times to charge the battery and i noticed steam/smoke coming out from under the hood. I opened up the hood and went to check and knew exactly what it was, radiator fluid steam. it smelled horrible. I tightened the cap and drove home. Refilled the system thru the reservoir overflow tank (like i said its the only way to fill this system) and noticed that it was slowly dripping from under the engine. This slow leak progressed into a medium then finally a constant leak over the course of about 2 months to where i had to finally change the pump since the truck wouldnt hold water.

During the time while the leak was occuring i was running nothing but water through the cooling system. All the dexcool had drained out several times over and was actually "flushed" out, thru the use of about 15-20 gallons of distilled water (1-2 gallons at a time) over the course of 2 months while the pump was still leaking, until i could get some free time to change the pump.

That being said, now that the pump has been replaced and the system is holding water. I'm wanting to change over to green coolant. but I'm worried because the dexcool has been in the system so long that im worried the aluminum/iron coolant passages, water jackets, and heater core have been "conditioned" to the dexcool, and that introducing a new coolant, this late in the game, will cause some sort of caustic condition where the entire system may rust up or some other uncontrollable/unforeseeable effect that will ruin my day.

Can anyone suggest whether im just being paranoid? Or is it a good idea, this late in the game, to just keep with dexcool since the parts have indeed been conditioned to it, and not to risk rusting anything up?

Any suggestions greatly appreciated,
 
The reason the second pump failed was because replacement parts are junk these days.

If you want to switch away from Dexcool I won't talk you out of it but I would recommend Zerex G05 or Motorcraft gold over conventional green any day and this is what I use personally on my Buick (G05). It does everything green does but better and longer life
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The reason the second pump failed was because replacement parts are junk these days.


Amen.The manufacturers are far more worried about profits and lining the pockets of stockholders as opposed to making a good,long lasting item.
That being said,there is an extremely long procedure for bleeding the air out of 4.8/5.3/6.0 engines.Its 2 pages long.An internet search will bring up the horrid details.
 
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
That being said,there is an extremely long procedure for bleeding the air out of 4.8/5.3/6.0 engines.Its 2 pages long.An internet search will bring up the horrid details.


Got a link to it? When I replaced the heater hoses/coolant tank on my truck I just filled the system, started the truck and top off the tank and recheck coolant level the next morning. I owe to the ingenious LS engine design for it to be self bleeding using the steam vent tubes and having the TB as a high point for the air to climb up. Didn't have to open bleeders or fill though the upper rad hose like some vehicles I've worked on.
 
When I drained the coolant in my Ford 4.6L all I had to do was squeeze the radiator hose a few times and never had any issues after that!
 
I would keep the dexcool. As mentioned in a previous comment, it wasn't the dexcool that caused anything but the general lack of quality in replacement parts now a days. I would fix it with OEM if possible (hopefully better quality) and fill with dexcool. Rockauto has the OEM for $140
 
I have an 04 Silverado, over 180k miles, oem water pump and orange dexcool w zero cooling system issues. I have no plans to use anything other than dexcool. I did the same thing as buck91 the last time I flushed the coolant.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
The reason the second pump failed was because replacement parts are junk these days.

If you want to switch away from Dexcool I won't talk you out of it but I would recommend Zerex G05 or Motorcraft gold over conventional green any day and this is what I use personally on my Buick (G05). It does everything green does but better and longer life


Agreed on both points. For a GM, I see no reason to drop DexCool at all. If you have a one-metal (aluminum) cooling system and compatible plastics, its probably the longest-lasting option. Where it falls down is in mixed-metal cooling systems, and that's where G-05 is the best choice.
 
I would flush out the dexcool from my Alero if it were the 4 cylinder model, but on the V6 it's too hard to get every last bit of it out. That and my issue isn't with DexCool, I think it's fine, I just want to keep one less type of coolant around.
 
Switch to a "Any make any model" green like Super Tech if you are committed to dumping the Dexcool. It will work just fine for you.
 
dont go to green coolant - especially with the amount of aluminum in your system. I would stay dexcool; or consider the G05. I dont know what replacement water pump you bought, but I always buy new -
 
I would do the same. Dexcool isn't evil if you don't abuse it, there's no reason to be afraid of it it you change it at its recommended interval (150k miles OR 5 years, whichever comes FIRST). It's when people leave it in for 15 + years that you start to see problems. It's a pretty good coolant for its recommended interval.
 
Its called "plasticizing-" it doesn't "eat" anything but it does soften incompatible gasket materials so they can flow under pressure, creating leaks.

But the OP's GM-built cooling system is made late enough to be completely free of such plastics, though it was a problem for some GM engines in the early years of DexCool. As others have said repeatedly, DexCool is terrible in engines not properly made for it, but works astoundingly well when the engine and all cooling system materials are chosen specifically to BE compatible with it.
 
Originally Posted By: TexasTea


That being said, I still dont understand completely why it failed.



Then I suggest you stop jumping to conclusions. If DexCool was so bad, why did the first pump make it more than 100,000 miles, and yet the second only 20-30K miles? That would be the first place I would investigate.




Originally Posted By: 440Magnum

Agreed on both points. For a GM, I see no reason to drop DexCool at all. If you have a one-metal (aluminum) cooling system and compatible plastics, its probably the longest-lasting option. Where it falls down is in mixed-metal cooling systems,


Do you have a link for this? I thought Dex only fell short of protecting copper/brass parts, due to problems with solder?



Originally Posted By: 3putter
Switch to a "Any make any model" green like Super Tech if you are committed to dumping the Dexcool. It will work just fine for you.


You do realize that most "All Makes, All Models" coolants are usually just a DexClone?
 
Dex is NOT compatible with EG. GM had a TON of teething problems with Dex but they have been long resolved. Its a [censored] shame that every OEM has to have a proprietary coolant buts its where we are these days. Id refill with Dex and worry not...and don't buy cheap aftermarket parts!

When we still owned our repair facility we would see cases of contaminated coolant all the time...like several times a week. It was always with GM cars calling for Dexcool filled with the standard green. Lube shacks would top off the over flows with the green as it was a fraction of the cost...it would mix over time and turn into peanut butter. What a mess...did a lot of heater cores as a result of this and they often involved pulling the dash etc.
 
Dex-Cool has 2-EHA, which has been mentioned here eats seals and gaskets. What has not been mentioned lately is why Japanese auto makers refuse to use Dex-Cool. Because the 2-EHA is a plasticizer, meaning it can soften plastic. Lots of plastic cooling system pieces in Japanese cars. The VW/Audi coolant G12, etc has no 2-EHA and those cars use plastic parts in the cooling system, too. Another good all purpose coolant is the old Toyota Red, which Pentofrost A1 replaces. It has phosphates, but no silicates, borates, nitratesor amines. It also has no 2-EHA.
 
I had a 94 toyota 4runner with 220k miles and I ran the red Shell coolant and had zero issues with it, the stuff is supposed to last for 500k miles but not sure how the GM motors would handle it.
 
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