Switching from M1, need info.

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[/quote]
You have been seriously misinformed....

M1 5W-30 (like all M1 motor oil) has substantial amounts of Group IV/V base stocks, probably in the neighborhood of 40% (depending on the grade). [/quote]

I'm glad you could make this clear...I thought it was all GrpIII.
 
Thank hadrien for the info & experience you had. Just curious, what type of M1 did use?
 
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Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: HatchSpeeD
Hello all, I'm new to this board. I've been reading a lot of threads over the past few days & learned a lot but it's hard to sift through all the info. I've used M1 in all the different Honda's I've owned in the past 8 years & wanted to try something different.

I currently have a Civic with a JDM GSR (B18C DOHC VTEC) swap. I was surprised to learn about the M1 being a group 3 base.
Also, from past experiences I do think M1 tends to burn easier & am curious to see if my valvetrain quiets down a little with another brand (even with the recent valve adj I did).

5-30 is recommended oil.
I was wondering if I got my hands on some german castrol 0-30, how that would perform against the m1 & if anyone here uses GC in a B-series motor?

Penzoil Plat?
Quaker state Q?
Castrol edge?
etc..

Also, are all of the above considered group3, group4 etc?

Thanks


Honda motors prefer the thinner oil,GC is a little thick for your application.


Not DOHC VTEC motors... they drink lightweight oils when on the big cam. FWIW, everywhere else in the world specs 40W oils for the B18C/K20A/F20C motors. I think GC is a great choice. Even M1 0W-40 is a soild pick. Its on the thin side too, and will be a thick 30W in no time.
 
Originally Posted By: zulu
Not DOHC VTEC motors... they drink lightweight oils when on the big cam.

Tell me about it. My brother's DOHC VTEC motor even drinks GC when on the big cam.
LOL.gif
We just switched him over to Motul 8100 X-Lite 0w-30, which is a very new and similarly heavy 30 weight based on 300V, and it still does it...


Originally Posted By: zulu
Even M1 0W-40 is a soild pick. Its on the thin side too, and will be a thick 30W in no time.

I don't think this is true any more....
 
For the most part it's stock although I suspect it was turbo'd before I bought it due to the tap in the oil pan that is plugged. It has an edelbrock victor x manifold which again is a clue cuz their used mainly for turbo applications.

When i bought it, the oil was hella dirty. It also had a broken valve cover stud. I had to take out the cams in inorder to get to it. I always noticed a slight clangy or metal sound from what I suspected was the valvetrain. I did a valve adj & it went away. Eventually it came back so I tightned up the clearance a lot, to the point where the car was noticeably slower (well to me anyway, honda's like loose clearances) It's hard to tell with hasport solid mounts cuz everything fricken vibrates but I noticed when it got really cold & on start up after the car was sitting for 8 hours I could hear a noise for 1-2 secs as if the cam journals/rocker pads weren't being lubed enough. It would only happen at temps below or at freezing. It could be partly cuz on cold starts the rpms 1st kick up to like 2400rpms then down to about 1800rpms on fast idle til it warms & drops, due what I suspect being the ignition timing slightly off.
It doesn't really burn oil. I bought the car last year & have put about 5k on it. Only changed the oil once with m1 synthetic & oem filter. I only added about a half of quart in 5k.
Anyway, so I'd like to try something new this oc. The gc is still appealing to me if I find it.

Whats up with puralator pure one oil filters? I've been reading on this board it's good stuff. I know Honda's can be picky so idk if it's a good choice. I usually use Honda oem filters but I'm tired of running to the dealer + they switched to this universal smaller 1 now which I'm weary of. I used to use M1 filters prior but I hear puralator is better...
 
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Originally Posted By: d00df00d
zulu said:
Not DOHC VTEC motors... they drink lightweight oils when on the big cam.

Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Tell me about it. My brother's DOHC VTEC motor even drinks GC when on the big cam.
LOL.gif
We just switched him over to Motul 8100 X-Lite 0w-30, which is a very new and similarly heavy 30 weight based on 300V, and it still does it...


If it's b-series we're talking, it's mainly because the stock PCV system is not a adaquate for the increased cyclinder pressure & causing excessive crankcase pressure at high rpms. They should get a breather kit like the endyn kit or make your own. http://www.theoldone.com/components/breather/

I've read numerous times in the past on b-series motors with mods such as big cam etc after replacing the stock pcv oil consumption changed drastically. Just a thought.
 
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Originally Posted By: HatchSpeeD
If it's b-series we're talking, it's mainly because the stock PCV system is not a adaquate for the increased cyclinder pressure & causing excessive crankcase pressure at high rpms. They should get a breather kit like the endyn kit or make your own. http://www.theoldone.com/components/breather/

I've read numerous times in the past on b-series motors with mods such as big cam etc after replacing the stock pcv oil consumption changed drastically. Just a thought.

Thanks! I'll pass that on to him!
cheers3.gif
 
Don't get wrong, there is still your normal wear & tear rings, valve seals etc but if compression & leakdown tests look good I'd defintetly start there.
 
Originally Posted By: HatchSpeeD
Thank hadrien for the info & experience you had. Just curious, what type of M1 did use?


I guess just regular Mobil 1 5W30 in the silver bottle. It was not Extended Performance or SUV or anything like that.
 
Most of the major brand Syn oils are Group III based with maybe a little IV or V in them.

If you want true Syn oils with the better base oils you can try Amsoil, Royal Purple or Redline.

**Remember it is the total package that counts not just the base oil. The additives are a large part of the performance equation.
 
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Hatchspeed,
You said M1 is a grp 3. Not so. Some M1s may some grp3 in their formulation, but they also grp4&5 also. Their blending is not made public so if someone says M1 is grp 3 only, they speak not the truth. No one her knows for sure.
 
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I hear ya but botton line, I'm not impressed with m1 & open to try something new, although I've never tried M1EP just regular m1 snyth. Anyone to chime in about the filter?
 
Originally Posted By: HatchSpeeD
I hear ya but botton line, I'm not impressed with m1 & open to try something new, although I've never tried M1EP just regular m1 snyth. Anyone to chime in about the filter?


I`ve read on several forums that the filters are a bit restrictive. I used to use them,but use only OEM now.
 
Which kind of filters? I don't like the fact that Honda switched to a smaller filter. I'm not saying their bad but it makes me weary that it doesn't filter as well or can't hold as much contaminates.
 
Originally Posted By: HatchSpeeD
Which kind of filters? I don't like the fact that Honda switched to a smaller filter. I'm not saying their bad but it makes me weary that it doesn't filter as well or can't hold as much contaminates.


Oh,sorry! The M1 filters.
 
Interesting thanks. Anyone on the puralator pure one oil filters? I never used or heard of them but I read somewhere here their good. Besides OEM Honda filters any recommendations from sound info?

I've also heard of K&N being good or a some wix brand. The last time I looked at K&N years ago if I recall it was really expensive.
 
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