Switching from Amsoil due to costs

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Guys, I wanted your recommendations. I still want to use the best oil I can buy from the store but Amsoil prices have gotten a bit too much for my taste now. Cost is near $90 shipped for a case.

I am considering PP, Castrol Syntec, and M1 again. M1 use to be what I used before Amsoil, but it had issues with startup clatter, etc on my older car. I have a 07 350Z and we have a 09 Murano and 08 Civic EX.

Please give me some recommendations on what I should use and in your opinion what grades? I currently use 5w30 and live in Texas.
 
Forgot to add, that I drive around 8000 miles a year, and that includes about 6-8 road course events where the car gets pushed hard.
 
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
With that kind of mileage and driving I'd think that the high HT/HS GC might be right... Maybe too thick though. PP's never a bad choice.


HT/HS OR GC? Sorry don't understand what you meant there.

My work is 4 miles from my house, so 8 miles a day for work. Short trips sadly.
 
Originally Posted By: firemachine69
So you drive the snot out of your car numerous times a year, and are worried about saving twenty-thirty bucks per OC?

Is something wrong with this picture?


I can pay $25-30 for a oil change including filter, or pay $60 including filter. Yes it makes a difference especially since I change it more often than I should due to the racing. I try to push it 6k, but most of the time it sees 4k, depending how often I tracked it during that time. Plus I am tired of dealing with ordering the Amsoil, rather just pick it up when I need it.

How about you be more helpful about my question instead of being a smart [censored]?
 
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GC has a high High Temp/High Shear and is a very thick 30 to begin with. I use PP 5W-30 here in Houston with a 5K interval and haven't gone wrong, but was thinking that for an 8k interval with the racing a thicker, more shear stable oil might be in order.

...for some people, it is a very hard pill to swallow that you don't want to use the big A. Stick to your position.
 
M1 0w40 might be another option as well...... It's a light 40-weight that is designed to be run in high-stress environments; like Porsche's turbocharged engines for example.
 
8k mile OCI with a few road courses in between is pushing any oil far. Is the vehicle in a G35. Spend a few bucks on a UOA and you'll know for sure which method for you is most efficient and price effective.
 
Originally Posted By: firemachine69
So you drive the snot out of your car numerous times a year, and are worried about saving twenty-thirty bucks per OC?

Is something wrong with this picture?


With the stock market in the dumps, gas prices are high, food costs gone up, you gotta cut back somewhere.
 
I agree. Almost thinking of going to a dino oil and LC20...See what the next few months bring.
 
Originally Posted By: dargo
I agree. Almost thinking of going to a dino oil and LC20...See what the next few months bring.
Dino and Auto R/X
thumbsup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: G35_TX
Originally Posted By: firemachine69
So you drive the snot out of your car numerous times a year, and are worried about saving twenty-thirty bucks per OC?

Is something wrong with this picture?


I can pay $25-30 for a oil change including filter, or pay $60 including filter. Yes it makes a difference especially since I change it more often than I should due to the racing. I try to push it 6k, but most of the time it sees 4k, depending how often I tracked it during that time. Plus I am tired of dealing with ordering the Amsoil, rather just pick it up when I need it.

How about you be more helpful about my question instead of being a smart [censored]?



Because breaking stuff is a normal part of racing... I'm not in any way saying your engine will grenade on the next course you do, but would you cry wolf if a tire popped?

By the way, do you have track fees in your area?
 
I would use a good 10w30 year round. PP, Synpower and Mobil 1 would all be good choices.
 
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
GC has a high High Temp/High Shear and is a very thick 30 to begin with. I use PP 5W-30 here in Houston with a 5K interval and haven't gone wrong, but was thinking that for an 8k interval with the racing a thicker, more shear stable oil might be in order.

...for some people, it is a very hard pill to swallow that you don't want to use the big A. Stick to your position.


I have been using Amsoil for around 5 years. Love the stuff. Just a bit over expensive for what I want now.
 
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
Originally Posted By: firemachine69
So you drive the snot out of your car numerous times a year, and are worried about saving twenty-thirty bucks per OC?

Is something wrong with this picture?


With the stock market in the dumps, gas prices are high, food costs gone up, you gotta cut back somewhere.


Exactly.
 
Originally Posted By: firemachine69
Originally Posted By: G35_TX
Originally Posted By: firemachine69
So you drive the snot out of your car numerous times a year, and are worried about saving twenty-thirty bucks per OC?

Is something wrong with this picture?


I can pay $25-30 for a oil change including filter, or pay $60 including filter. Yes it makes a difference especially since I change it more often than I should due to the racing. I try to push it 6k, but most of the time it sees 4k, depending how often I tracked it during that time. Plus I am tired of dealing with ordering the Amsoil, rather just pick it up when I need it.

How about you be more helpful about my question instead of being a smart [censored]?



Because breaking stuff is a normal part of racing... I'm not in any way saying your engine will grenade on the next course you do, but would you cry wolf if a tire popped?

By the way, do you have track fees in your area?


Only fee I have is when I pay to go for the full day. Last time I went was in June, got one scheduled October, and I just did my last change with Amsoil 0-30. In June temps were 100, and ground temps 130. It was hot, and the car showed it. Temp gauge went almost 3/4 of the way up by the end of the run. Thankfully temps are going back down now. :)
 
Considering the cost of cars today, oil is still very cheap IMO. But I know what you mean, you have to cut back somewhere....

Spending $90 on Amsoil for 2 oil changes isn't bad at all to me personally. $90 is gas for two weeks the way I drive.

You really need to take advantage of the 33% higher Tbn Amsoil has and run the oils longer to get your $'s worth.
 
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