Switched to 5w-20 in 2000 Saturn SL1 SOHC

[faramir9]

The holidays put me in a reckless mood, so I switched from the spec 5w-30 to 5w-20 in my 2000 Saturn SL1 SOHC for winter. Here is my logic, such as it is: 1. Luckily my car burns much less oil than most S-series do----but it still burns some. If the 20-weight makes it burn a few drops more than before, so be it. 2. Engine noise? Hehe. This is a Saturn. 3. Might not even be enough to notice but I will happily take a tiny bump upward in mpg. 4. Want to test the theory that with an S-series it's most important to get oil to the chain ASAP; the chain runs the show, pretty much. Figure a 20-weight will get there the quickest. I've read a post or two at Saturn Fans that suggests that, anyway. 5. I am running PP with an M-1 filter; consumption is less with PP or M1 than other oils. (M1-HM the best with PP a close second. Since PP had a rebate deal that's what I got.) 6. Winter in northern PA is about to hit full stride. 7. Feeling reckless. Any minute now the engine is gonna blow....

 

[Fordtrucktexan]

Hi!!! Just kidding lol Let us know how it runs. Anyone ever try 0w-20 in one of these mills? Probably be noisy as all get out....

 

[rockydee]

A Saturn, i'd stick with a 30 grade. Let us know how it all works out.-RD

 

[skyactiv]

If you want quick lubrication, you would be better off with an 0W30 over a 5W20.

 

[daman]

If there's sufficient oil pressure you'll be fine.

 

[Clevy]

With a positive displacement oil pump the oil will move at the same speed,regardless of grade. Thicker grades will increase oil pressure but actual flow doesn't change. If there is too much pressure then the pump bypass opens and oil returns to the pan. So going thinner will not affect flow,just lower pressure.

 

[Klutch9]

I did something similar with an older vehicle I had. 'Twas a '99 Grand Am with 170,000 miles on a 2.4L 'Twin Cam' engine. Noisy, unrefined, tons of wrist pin slap... so I threw some PP 5w-20 in it (which is a thin 20 grade). And if anything, the motor almost got smoother. It could have been placebo, who knows.

 

[Nick1994]

Switching oil grades isn't just about mpg's, oil moving quicker, noise, and oil burning. There's also a factor of if its properly lubricating. If you want it to get to the chain quicker, they're both 5w oils, it'll likely be the same at startup. Once the engine is warmed up the oil has already gotten there. Good luck!

 

[volk06]

Originally Posted By: skyactiv

If you want quick lubrication, you would be better off with an 0W30 over a 5W20.

A 5w-20 is thinner than a 0w-30 at most temps. Lower viscosity and lower hths with 5w-20. Only at extreme temps, -25f and below will you see a difference. Just like M1 0w-40 is thicker than most 5w-30s until real extreme low temps where the flow properties become important.

 

[faramir9]

Originally Posted By: rockydee

A Saturn, i'd stick with a 30 grade. Let us know how it all works out.-RD

Yep, I've given the same advice to others. Do as I say, not etc....should have added to the list---perhaps the most important thing: I baby the car 98% of the time, never tow anything, seldom have passengers or much of a load, it's not dusty or (obviously) hot here, not much stop-and-go city driving, mix of highway trips at 60 mph and gentle semi-rural roads. Add that usage case to the list in my OP and I figured it was worth a shot. Oh yeah, one more thing: W-M had 5w-20 in stock when the rebate deal was going on. I could have played the game of taking the jug somewhere else and exchanging it for 5w-30 but I am lazy....

 

[rockydee]

Originally Posted By: faramir9

Originally Posted By: rockydee

A Saturn, i'd stick with a 30 grade. Let us know how it all works out.-RD

Yep, I've given the same advice to others. Do as I say, not etc....should have added to the list---perhaps the most important thing: I baby the car 98% of the time, never tow anything, seldom have passengers or much of a load, it's not dusty or (obviously) hot here, not much stop-and-go city driving, mix of highway trips at 60 mph and gentle semi-rural roads. Add that usage case to the list in my OP and I figured it was worth a shot. Oh yeah, one more thing: W-M had 5w-20 in stock when the rebate deal was going on. I could have played the game of taking the jug somewhere else and exchanging it for 5w-30 but I am lazy....

I'm sure interested in your results and observations at the end of your change interval.-RD

 

[OneEyeJack]

Just make sure your will is updated and your important documents are in order. On a more serious note, don't forget to check your cooling system. After all this consideration for your oil it'd be a sad note to have the cooling system let you down or to even have your fuel system get plugged up because of a old fuel filter.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I can hear the valvetrain clicking from here. I can see your rod bearings disintegrating. I can smell the smoke from it seeping past the rings. It's puddling on the ground because the seals in the oil pan weren't made for 20 grade. I can even see the cam chain and tensioners disintegrating right as I type this. You've destroyed the engine. Drain and refill with 20w-50 or 85w-140 gear oil immediately. On a more serious note: I bet nothing at all will happen.

 

[Donald]

Originally Posted By: faramir9

The holidays put me in a reckless mood, so I switched from the spec 5w-30 to 5w-20 in my 2000 Saturn SL1 SOHC for winter. Here is my logic, such as it is: 1. Luckily my car burns much less oil than most S-series do----but it still burns some. If the 20-weight makes it burn a few drops more than before, so be it. 2. Engine noise? Hehe. This is a Saturn. 3. Might not even be enough to notice but I will happily take a tiny bump upward in mpg. 4. Want to test the theory that with an S-series it's most important to get oil to the chain ASAP; the chain runs the show, pretty much. Figure a 20-weight will get there the quickest. I've read a post or two at Saturn Fans that suggests that, anyway. 5. I am running PP with an M-1 filter; consumption is less with PP or M1 than other oils. (M1-HM the best with PP a close second. Since PP had a rebate deal that's what I got.) 6. Winter in northern PA is about to hit full stride. 7. Feeling reckless. Any minute now the engine is gonna blow....

Switching to 0W20 might make the engine blow, but to 5W20 just makes the engine fall out while driving. Hopefully the tractor trailer behind you does not run over it!

 

[SilverC6]

Originally Posted By: Donald

Switching to 0W20 might make the engine blow, but to 5W20 just makes the engine fall out while driving. Hopefully the tractor trailer behind you does not run over it!

Boy that would be a switch there. When is the last time an 18 wheeler hit something that fell off a car??? In my neck of the woods, it's like a video game dodging the blown tires from the semi's and avoiding the junk falling off their trailers.

 

[RF Overlord]

@ the OP: you have nothing to fear. The world already ended on December 21st, 2012.

 

[faramir9]

Thanks for all the helpful and amusing replies to my (hopefully) humorous OP. Can't say I am a big fan of the moderation of subject lines that happens here. This is the first time it bit me. I will be back to update in a few weeks or months. To be serious: I have 5w-30 and an M-1 filter on hand just in case something bad does happen---but I doubt that it will. Happy New Year.

 

[MrQuackers]

In November, I changed my oil (SL2) with 3.6 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 and 0.4 quarts of Valvoline NextGen High Mileage 10w-40. I have typical usage of around 1100-1500 miles to the quart. 1800 miles in and has been running just fine. I am topping off with more of the Valvoline 10w-40.

 

[tig1]

In the late 70's I started using M1 5-20 in engines calling for 10-40. No problems except a little more oil use. However my engines really revved great, and started and sounded much better in the cold temps where I lived in Maine.