switcharoo

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So I've got a stupid question.

A lot of Isuzu Trooper owners run diesel oil (Shell Rotella) in their vehicles. They do this to slow down/prevent the way our engines burn oil. Right now I am currently running Pennzoil High Mileage. However, I have begun burning oil. I noticed about half a quart gone after five hundred miles. I am going to continue running Pennzoil for the time being until my oil burning gets worse.

So here's my question.

I am going to buy a bypass oil filter setup (probably from Pennzoil unless someone can suggest a better/cheaper kit for me).
If I switch to Shell Rotella or a similar diesel oil. Can I run it through my standard Isuzu Trooper oil filter...AND can I run the diesel oil through the Pennzoil bypass filter setup if it is intended for a trooper running on regular gasoline engine oil?
 
I see no reason to get a bypass system if you're burning oil at 1 quart per 1k miles. Save that money to repair the consumption issue first. The cost/benefit just isn't there since you're replenishing the oil so often anyhow. Your priorities are not in order here.

Try Maxlife 5w-30, or 10w-40 if needed to help out with the consumption.
 
Well there was a method to my madness. Granted I do not know a lot about how all these things work (which is why I'm on here and asking)

I was told that shell rotella has a higher concentration of cleaning additives in it. I also spoke with a pennzoil guy and was told that bypass oil filters can help remove grime and sludge from the engine especially when in combination with a higher amount of additives. So I thought that by using shell rotella and a bypass filter, I might remove some of the buildup that is causing me to burn oil. But I'm guessing you guys are going to tell me that this is completely bogus and wont work...
Oh well for wishful thinking.


Isuzu didn't make enough drain back holes for the oil, so when the engine gets dirty...the oil can't come back through properly and gets burnt up.
 
Chock me up as a disbeliever; a BP unit isn't going to fix poor drain-back design.


Are you sure it's an issue of poor drainback? If so, the presumption would be that there's a lot of sludge on top of the head? You might consider something such as an ester based cleaner to loose the stuff up over time. There are products like ARX as well as some oils that have a high ester content.

Or, do you have bad valve stem seals? Or, poor oil-control-ring tension at the pistons? Are you burning oil out the exhaust? Or just depositing it on the head? When I think of "burning oil" I consider that to be in the combustion process. Evaporation (typically with lubes with low NOACK scores) is often confused for "burning" oil.


Since your question is about bypass filters I'll move this.
 
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Yeah that is wishful thinking, a non sequitur. If there indeed aren't enough drain back areas in the head (as there may not be for my 1MZ-FE), a different filter setup isn't going to help. Using a top shelf, highly heat stable and strongly oxidation-resistant oil may, however.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Yeah that is wishful thinking, a non sequitur. If there indeed aren't enough drain back areas in the head (as there may not be for my 1MZ-FE), a different filter setup isn't going to help. Using a top shelf, highly heat stable and strongly oxidation-resistant oil may, however.


What oil do you recommend? She'll rotellla?
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Chock me up as a disbeliever; a BP unit isn't going to fix poor drain-back design.


Are you sure it's an issue of poor drainback? If so, the presumption would be that there's a lot of sludge on top of the head? You might consider something such as an ester based cleaner to loose the stuff up over time. There are products like ARX as well as some oils that have a high ester content.

Or, do you have bad valve stem seals? Or, poor oil-control-ring tension at the pistons? Are you burning oil out the exhaust? Or just depositing it on the head? When I think of "burning oil" I consider that to be in the combustion process. Evaporation (typically with lubes with low NOACK scores) is often confused for "burning" oil.


Since your question is about bypass filters I'll move this.


Will a bypass filter help prevent the issue from getting worse?
 
I don't think the bypass is going to help anything other than extended oil change intervals, which an oil burner isn't capable of anyway.

First, are you absolutely sure that you're burning oil due to the poor design you're citing? Before throwing money at it, find out for sure what the issue is. Make sure it isn't bad valve stem seals, PCV, rings, etc. Take it to a mechanic for diagnosis if need be. Save your $200 for the repair.

If it is just a poor design and there's sludge on top, a cleaning might help open up the holes that do exist. Auto RX and Kreen are popular here, although I haven't used them. Red Line oils have a very low NOACK value and good cleaning abilities from the ester base. Could a machine shop widen the existing drainback holes if that's the problem?

So, here's what I would do: run a high mileage 10w-40 oil like Maxlife until you single out what the problem is. Fix it. Skip the bypass. It's a solution for a problem you don't have.
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
I don't think the bypass is going to help anything other than extended oil change intervals, which an oil burner isn't capable of anyway.

First, are you absolutely sure that you're burning oil due to the poor design you're citing? Before throwing money at it, find out for sure what the issue is. Make sure it isn't bad valve stem seals, PCV, rings, etc. Take it to a mechanic for diagnosis if need be. Save your $200 for the repair.

If it is just a poor design and there's sludge on top, a cleaning might help open up the holes that do exist. Auto RX and Kreen are popular here, although I haven't used them. Red Line oils have a very low NOACK value and good cleaning abilities from the ester base. Could a machine shop widen the existing drainback holes if that's the problem?

So, here's what I would do: run a high mileage 10w-40 oil like Maxlife until you single out what the problem is. Fix it. Skip the bypass. It's a solution for a problem you don't have.


I'm not leaking oil from anywhere I can find, and I have cleaned the PCV (although I will do it again), but you're right I'll have my ASE buddy check it out before I make a purchase.

Just for future reference, where can I get a bypass oilfilter setup for $200? I was under the impression the pennzoil ones cost 400.
 
I remembered them being about $200 when I looked some years ago, maybe 2008. I guess I was wrong.

Anyhow, spend the $10 on a new PCV and let us know what your mechanic friend says. Take pictures to share if he does any disassembly. We like to see sludge.
 
Do the cleaning first, as it is the cheapest. Run a good cleaner and a fresh filter. I might even change that filter once during the cleaning as it may get clogged. After the cleaner has worked, go to your new oil and a new filter and see if it improved.
Would a good old school Frantz filter serve your need? I'm going that route.
 
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Also, if the sludge never gets away from the head, how will a by-pass help with that issue? It will help though if you go to an expensive oil that resolves the issue, and you want to change it less often.
 
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