Switch to 10w40 in higher temps?

Change back to 5W30.

Modern oil does not need this adjustment if you use major brands or especially synthetic, unless you are losing oil then yeah, adjust upwards or go high mi.

Wear warmed up isn't much of a factor, it's not like you are desert racing. Long road trip equates to highway at steady speed and good airflow, it is not all that demanding. Towing in hills, maybe.
 
I'd use a thicker oil only when the engine present any issue related to oil burn. My 5 cylinder Fiat turbo engine calls for 10w40 ou 15w40 but I am using a 15w50, but the engine have factory 200hp and now have 330hp. Otherwise for sure I would be using the owners manual recommended oil.
 
Originally Posted by ChristianBerg
I'd use a thicker oil only when the engine present any issue related to oil burn. My 5 cylinder Fiat turbo engine calls for 10w40 ou 15w40 but I am using a 15w50, but the engine have factory 200hp and now have 330hp. Otherwise for sure I would be using the owners manual recommended oil.

That 5 cyl turbo was my dream, back in the days. In a Marea ? Loved that car.
 
I would be more concerned with the condition of the coolant system. If it's working properly the engine doesn't know it's hot outside. I'd also be wondering when was the last time the transmission fluid and filter was changed. Then change the engine oil to a 5w-30 synthetic.

Most vehicles I've seen on the side of the road are overheated or blown tire.
 
+10

If my addition is correct.
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10w30 QSUD would be my vote. Put some of the good stuff in there. It deserves it after all this time and miles.
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Originally Posted by FordCapriDriver
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
If it has no issues on 10W-30 keep using it.

You could treat it to a 10W-30 High Mileage oil, HM oils are usually made on the thicker end of the viscosity grade.


^^This^^
 
I ran straight SAE 30wt. many summers with great results. When the early morning temp is 80+, the 0 or 5 or even 10 is meaningless. Straight weights are clean and very durable.
 
+11 stay with 10w30
If your cooling system is healthy and you aren't towing or hauling heavy loads, there's no reason to change what's been working so well. Most name brand 10w30 oils are pretty stout. Personally, I might go up to a 10w40 in my vehicles if/when they start burning significant oil, but definitely not before then... and the reason won't be due to higher ambient temperatures.

Q: Is it safe to assume this is not the first hot weather trip the vehicle has seen?
 
Originally Posted by Popsy
Originally Posted by ChristianBerg
I'd use a thicker oil only when the engine present any issue related to oil burn. My 5 cylinder Fiat turbo engine calls for 10w40 ou 15w40 but I am using a 15w50, but the engine have factory 200hp and now have 330hp. Otherwise for sure I would be using the owners manual recommended oil.

That 5 cyl turbo was my dream, back in the days. In a Marea ? Loved that car.

Yeap, in a Marea Weekend Turbo. We had the privilege of having the Marea with the 5 cyl turbo in Brazil. It really is an amazing car.
 
Originally Posted by DGXR
+11 stay with 10w30
If your cooling system is healthy and you aren't towing or hauling heavy loads, there's no reason to change what's been working so well. Most name brand 10w30 oils are pretty stout. Personally, I might go up to a 10w40 in my vehicles if/when they start burning significant oil, but definitely not before then... and the reason won't be due to higher ambient temperatures.

Q: Is it safe to assume this is not the first hot weather trip the vehicle has seen?



Plus +11...

This could be a record on here
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I run 10w40 year around in temperatures from approximately 0F-100F. (sometimes a little colder in the winter and sometimes a little hotter in the summer) I just retired a car a few years ago with 518K miles that ran a stable diet of 10w40. The manufacturer recommended 5w30. I say do what you feel best. I think 10w30 or 10w40 would probably be fine. I'm also running 10w40 in my '16 Nissan that specs 5w30. I've had the Nissan since Feb. 2019 and even using the heavier weight oil my lifetime MPG average is 47.551 MPG. I currently have 2 other cars with over 200K miles also running 10w40 with a manufacturer recommended weight of 5w20. In about 45 years and approximately 1-1.25M miles 10w40 has never let me down.
 
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The experts here should correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that a 10W-40 will have more viscosity modifying polymers (VM) than a 10W-30, and possibly more than a 5W-30, as well.

In general, the lower the VM content of the oil in your engine, the better, because higher VM content equates to more carbon deposits - especially around the piston rings and grooves.

Search member Gokhan's recent posts on this.
 
Lots of threads and posts re vm aka vii. also lots of very knowledgeable guys here not afraid of it and love their 0W40's ...
 
I run 10w40 in my Jeep year round and regardless of temperatures. It just seems less vocal. When my 10w40 A3/B4 stash runs out, I'll probably run Rotella T5 or T6.
 
Originally Posted by john_pifer
The experts here should correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe that a 10W-40 will have more viscosity modifying polymers (VM) than a 10W-30, and possibly more than a 5W-30, as well.

In general, the lower the VM content of the oil in your engine, the better, because higher VM content equates to more carbon deposits - especially around the piston rings and grooves.


That is precisely why I advocated SAE 30 wt. for summer use. Less VM's are better than more, and zero VM's is even better.

SAE 30wt. is THE best choice for this application.
 
Motorcycles and old car enthusiasts are keeping 10w40 alive.
In my opinion, 10w30 and 0/5w40 are better-built oils. Mainly because of their synthetic oil options.
 
40 grades: 15W40 mineral, 10W40 semi-synthetic or 0/5W40 full synthetic, yes I use them all the time.

I did a run of Valvoline DuraBlend 10W40 A3/B4 for my summer fill and it got me through bushfire season fine. It will be time for my winter fill soon.
 
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