Suspension parts durability -- what is still good at 200k miles?

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So I did a big front suspension refresh on a 2010 Odyssey with just over 200k miles... here is my assessment of the condition of the parts I removed at 200k:

Struts (OE Showa) -- strut boots shredded, mounts good, no leaks, damping feels good by hand -- GOOD
Shocks (OE Showa) -- no leaks, still holding gas charge, damping feels good by hand -- GOOD
Lower control arms (OE) -- small cracks on rear bushing, ball joint feels like new -- GOOD
Tie rods (OE) -- small amount of play, inner rod flops under own weight -- BAD
Sway bar end links (one OE, one aftermarket) -- tear in boot, maybe a little loose -- BAD
Sway bar bushings (OE) -- MARGINAL

Now I will have to reserve judgment on how worn out the shocks/struts really were until I can take it on a long drive and see how much improvement the replacements give (if any).

I was very surprised that everything had held up so well. Interestingly, the parts that are cheap and easy to replace wore out the fastest.
 
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Now I will have to reserve judgment on how worn out the shocks/struts really were until I can take it on a long drive and see how much improvement the replacements give (if any).

They will, they will, if you went for OE.


I was very surprised that everything had held up so well. Interestingly, the parts that are cheap and easy to replace wore out the fastest.

Yes, surprised too.
.
 
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Nice report. I'm glad to see the parts most likely to need replacement are cheap parts easy to replace.
My Tacoma has 178k and all the factory suspension parts are still working good. It is all stock and I don't beat on it.
 
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My 05 Scion is also all stock. I think the tie rods are going but all of the bushing, springs and shocks / struts seem fine. I've even had 1500lbs maybe even 2000lbs of bagged gravel packed in the entire vehicle. Rode on the bump stops, 40 mile round trip (local roads). Shocks still holding and no leaks at 180k miles.
 
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This past year I refreshed the whole front end along with new Genuine BMW springs/shocks all around on my 2001 525i w/ the sport suspension and 155k miles- drives like new again!

Still need to take care of the dozen-plus bushings and ball joints in the rear but none of them were shot just old.
 
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With 235K+ on my 83 Silverado still running all original suspension, only things replaced were the pitman and idler arms, still running same ball joints, as was stated before, don't beat on my truck and do the low and slow. :cool:
 
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This past year I refreshed the whole front end along with new Genuine BMW springs/shocks all around on my 2001 525i w/ the sport suspension and 155k miles- drives like new again!

Still need to take care of the dozen-plus bushings and ball joints in the rear but none of them were shot just old.
BMW’s are tricky as suspension is performance oriented and that thrust arm in front takes serious beating. 155k out of those thurt arm bushings is really good.
 
Joined
Jun 16, 2005
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Danville, Indiana
So I did a big front suspension refresh on a 2010 Odyssey with just over 200k miles... here is my assessment of the condition of the parts I removed at 200k:

Struts (OE Showa) -- strut boots shredded, mounts good, no leaks, damping feels good by hand -- GOOD
Shocks (OE Showa) -- no leaks, still holding gas charge, damping feels good by hand -- GOOD
Lower control arms (OE) -- small cracks on rear bushing, ball joint feels like new -- GOOD
Tie rods (OE) -- small amount of play, inner rod flops under own weight -- BAD
Sway bar end links (one OE, one aftermarket) -- tear in boot, maybe a little loose -- BAD
Sway bar bushings (OE) -- MARGINAL

Now I will have to reserve judgment on how worn out the shocks/struts really were until I can take it on a long drive and see how much improvement the replacements give (if any).

I was very surprised that everything had held up so well. Interestingly, the parts that are cheap and easy to replace wore out the fastest.
So many variables. First, consider the vehicle and its suspension's inherent ruggedness. Then how it was driven.

I've got 172k on my 08 Jeep Wrangler. It has been off-road many, many times. I've replaced the ball joints because they were worn out. That was at about 96k miles. They were sealed and were a weak link. The replacements are steel and are heavy duty and can be lubed. That right there tightened up the entire feel of the Jeep.

That's all that's worn out. I've been thoroughly impressed with the durability of this machine and its suspension. It has taken a much greater beating than I ever thought it would. In fact, it has shrugged it off. I am confident it will sail well past 200k before anything else rears its head, and maybe longer.

I made other changes as modifications to improve capability, but nothing was worn out. I've never even worn out shocks. The originals were still good at 96k. I then had a set of Ranchos and now Bilstiens. But the Ranchos weren't worn, either. Again, it was for an upgrade.

We had a 2015 Ford Transit 15 passenger van that needed tie rod ends at about 60 or 70k. That was disappointing, but the OEM replacements were fine after the next 75k when we sold it. Tight as new. 3 Chevy 3500 vans started having the front suspension loosen up after 100 to 130k miles. I'm sure it was ball joints or tie rod ends or both.
 
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BMW’s are tricky as suspension is performance oriented and that thrust arm in front takes serious beating. 155k out of those thurt arm bushings is really good.
I believe they were original but may have been replaced once, and you are right to handle as well as these models do but also ride comfortably there has to be a sacrificial part- thrust arm bushings. Just like how E46's ate up their control arm bushings, at even a faster rate.

Seeing those brand new aluminum-bodied shocks and all-aluminum front and rear subframes cleaned up is a thing of beauty! Hard to believe this model was being developed in the early 90's.
 
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I can C a long thread coming.
I'd not (on: good OK bad) scale agree w/ur's ona few assessments below. Concur w/the rest..

Same manufacturer, same mileage but econo model...
Struts I'd re-boot, spray w/Liquid Film - needs maintenance;
The ICA's crack indicates replacement, ball joint comes w/it - bad
The SBB - I'd replace or link (also).

when reporting on 'issues'/giving estimates/asking for decisions to go ahead if, a customer balks at a safety issue repair I say "K, anything that leaves my shop is my responsibility. If it fails/U have an accident - I'm liable. Since U said "No" I'll have U sign a paper taking responsibility at payment, B4 U drive away."

"...Interestingly, the parts that are cheap and.."
Also in today's market U can do the same - geta cheep prt inexpensively, a middle, a quality (same 3 as above). As above I'd go oe as often as I can. I hate call backs, wrong parts, late parts, etc. I go OE unless special circumstances (driver brings own, request change, etc). I DoNot guarantee a prt @ that point. These prts R on the shortest maintenance schedule, no? I could have a (boring) business w/them & brakes/exhaust but prefer to branch out, solve NEW (to me) problems & go to the shop w/something interesting every day...
 
Joined
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I am not sure rating shocks by dampening level checked by hand is valid.

If I was replacing shocks and struts and going to keep the vehicle I would go with Blistein.
 
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
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At 200k miles I'm not sure how good those struts/shocks are, but replacement struts/shocks, are hit or miss anyway. Unless you go OE (or something claiming to be close to it) you really are gambling, and it's one part that I don't like to go cheap on because I've had some struts with 200k plus miles om them, replaced with aftermarket and the ride doesn't improve (gets worse) with the new ones.

As for the rest, sounds like a good report, but when you're up over 200,000 miles, suspension/steering parts can fail suddenly. It becomes a full time job to keep up with this stuff sometimes.
 

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Joined
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I went with KYB for the shocks and struts. Seem to be good, but I haven't driven the van much because it needs new tires.
 
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"...KYB..." would = gas I assume.
Bilstien should have it thru cross app
(as 1 of the biggest co around) just cant
help w/them or honda ( as I dont no them ).
 
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I had to put new struts on my 2012 Honda Civic and some front end parts. It cost $1450.00 so consider yourself lucky. Almost all highway miles too. I hope my repairs were legitimate?
 
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