Supertech VS Redline - Project Farm

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by RDY4WAR
Is that wear test even a legitimate way to compare the oils? I couldn't care less how fast the oil flows when cold.

No. There no repeatability between individual tests, a subject that's completely ignored in the video.

The guy can have zero agenda and be completely honest but that doesn't mean his methodology and results are worth the bandwidth to present them.

I gave him "minor" grief on one of his videos - maybe the Amazon Synthetic test. Said that this is not a valid test bearing wear test) in any shape or form. And the internet fanbois jumped on me hard. They said what would you do. I pointed them to APi certification testing and SAE and Sequence testing. But the Idiocracy prevails.

Dark ages my friend. Uh Fiend

 

[JAG]

I'm sure he did not mean it to be a replacement for existing testing required for the various approvals. It is simply additional data points of whatever importance each person ascribes to them.

 

[JLTD]

Originally Posted by buster
I honesly think Amsoil and Redline (racing oils only) are the only boutique brands left that offer any value. Otherwise the majors have them all beat across the board.


Don't forget Schaeffer Oil.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted by JAG
I'm sure he did not mean it to be a replacement for existing testing required for the various approvals. It is simply additional data points of whatever importance each person ascribes to them.


This^

 

[benjy]

an interesting vid for sure + of course Redline will excel in extremes, but for normal the very cheap will be good enough. i know Redline is a heavy 30 so wondering what centistoke the super- tec is at 40 + 100 C where oils are specd'. i just started using some super-tech 10W30 full syn high mileage in an older jeep cherokee, + amazon basics euro 5-40 synthetic in a thirsty 2.5L DI 13 Malibu, my baby a 2001 TT 225Q roadster gets the Redline, more power 300 ft lb 1.8T + a smaller sump of 4.25 qt is the reason, + it gets 10-40 winter + 15-50 summer being a bit loose + 25 lb boost!

 

[4WD]

Advanced Glug 202

 

[RDY4WAR]

This video is already making its rounds in Facebook groups. About 60% of the comments are "Wow, Red Line sucks!", another 20% are "all oil is the same", and the remaining 10% are chanting how Lucas Oil Stabilizer would make both of them better.

 

[Mustangmaster]

Any Warren oil is just as good as any other out there. Why waste more money?

 

[burla]

Very scientific test, and set even lower the atsm's in tempature, both cold and hot. Wanna see what an oil is like, follow atsm hths and not a hack.

 

[burla]

Any oil will flow good at -15, should tried lower. But then again, maybe he is doing this on purpose? -30c and you see the oil that still odesn't get cloudy. Um, and guys would rather put the cloudy one in their vehicle, LOL.



[video:youtube]https://youtu.be/hj3X_o0_NCo?t=14[/video]

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted by burla

Any oil will flow good at -15, should tried lower. But then again, maybe he is doing this on purpose? -30c and you see the oil that still odesn't get cloudy. Um, and guys would rather put the cloudy one in their vehicle, LOL.


What's that chart...certainly not pourability...specific to what engine family ????

 

[burla]

Originally Posted by Shannow
Originally Posted by burla

Any oil will flow good at -15, should tried lower. But then again, maybe he is doing this on purpose? -30c and you see the oil that still odesn't get cloudy. Um, and guys would rather put the cloudy one in their vehicle, LOL.


What's that chart...certainly not pourability...specific to what engine family ????


You are joking yes? Until you get as HOT as -15 do you see oils graded 20w or thicker winter rating for use. You want to see a pout test, cool that oil to -30 and we will se what happens. But we all actually know what will happen, that other stuff will freeze and redline will flow.

SAE Viscosity Grade[°C]
Cranking Viscosity [mPa.s] max. at Temp. [°C]
Pumping Viscosity [mPa.s] max. at Temp. [°C]

0W 6200 at -35 60 000 at -40
10W 7000 at -25 60 000 at -30
15W 7000 at -20 60 000 at -25
20W 9500 at -15 60 000 at -20
25W 13 000 at -10 60 000 at -15

 

[burla]

Just 5 more degrees, 5w30 redline out performs more 0 weights...

Everything is flowing good at -15, kick that test down 10 degrees, this is how you judge an oil against another

[video:youtube]https://youtu.be/rvhl3JgYS8A?t=127[/video]

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted by burla
Originally Posted by Shannow
What's that chart...certainly not pourability...specific to what engine family ????


You are joking yes? Until you get as HOT as -15 do you see oils graded 20w or thicker winter rating for use. You want to see a pout test, cool that oil to -30 and we will se what happens. But we all actually know what will happen, that other stuff will freeze and redline will flow.

SAE Viscosity Grade[°C]
Cranking Viscosity [mPa.s] max. at Temp. [°C]
Pumping Viscosity [mPa.s] max. at Temp. [°C]

0W 6200 at -35 60 000 at -40
10W 7000 at -25 60 000 at -30
15W 7000 at -20 60 000 at -25
20W 9500 at -15 60 000 at -20
25W 13 000 at -10 60 000 at -15


No, I'm not joking what is that chart ?

It's not a pourability chart, and appears to be an adaptation (poorly) of a specific vehicle chart...especially when it starts to define upper operating ranges for "0W" monogrades.

Yes, I know what J300 is...but that chart is not J300...what happens at the top end, if it's a "flow" chart, do they stop flowing at high temperature ?

And the numbering on tha chart appears based on MRV, not CCS

 

[ChrisD46]

*What is the NOACK for the Super Tech 5W30 Synthetic SN+ D1 / Gen 2 ?

 

[alarmguy]

Once again, all oils of the same rating are equal, unless a company proves its test results for its API rating are superior to its competition.
No company ever does, so buy what makes you happy.

$3.00 a quart or $10.00 a quart, doesnt matter.

I did enjoy the video though!

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted by burla
Just 5 more degrees, 5w30 redline out performs more 0 weights...

Everything is flowing good at -15, kick that test down 10 degrees, this is how you judge an oil against another

[video:youtube]https://youtu.be/rvhl3JgYS8A?t=127[/video]


Spin and glug test is not part of any API suite of oil tests...LOL...standardised bottles viscometric flasks are a good idea...but pour point...even pour point properly executed in an ASTM test...was discounted as a cold weather engine protection factor decades ago.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted by Railrust
So the bottom line is....for 5,000 mile oci's you really can't go wrong with the Super Tech.


I don't use Redline engine oils but they claim it is suitable for VW 502 and with a 3.7 HTHS and higher zddp levels it is looking like a Euro 5w30. The Super Tech with an HTHS of 3.17 and lower zddp levels should not be used in engines requiring a high HTHS or Euro spec engines.
IMO The problem with testing these oils against each other is other than the 5w30 designation on the bottle they are apples and oranges.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted by burla

So let me understand this "chart"...

The 5w30 and 10w30 I use here in Florida is unsuitable on days when the ambient temp reaches past 35°c (95°f). I better never think of using a 5w20 then.

Not buying it.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*What is the NOACK for the Super Tech 5W30 Synthetic SN+ D1 / Gen 2 ?

MAG 1 5W30 has the same d1G2 license # as ST 5W30 synth, so my take is they have to be very similar oils...I can't prove that, though.
FWIW, Warren is very good about sharing info on the MAG 1 line on their website and they show the Noack loss for the 5W30 to be 12%.

https://mag1.com/products/passenger...il/mag-1-full-synthetic-5w-30-motor-oil/

dexos1 oils need to have a NOACK loss of under 13%, so the MAG 1 offering (and probably the ST oil) are just about as good as they have to be.