SuperTech Rust-Proofing

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Just had my Yaris rust-proofed at Wal-Mart the other day. $89.95 + tax. Excellent price, considering the solution is manufactured, blended and packaged in Canada, plus most other places charge $129.95 or more (and some popular names use chinese-blended stuff.
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Discuss.
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Use Krown Rust Control, they will guarantee the body of your car for the life that you own it if you get it done every year. The price you pay the first year is the price you will pay forever because they lock it in.

This is all they do and they are experts, not some tire busters/oil changers at Walmart!

If you are a CAA member you save on the price!

It's environmentally friendly and non-toxic and won't hurt concrete or asphalt.

It's Canadian owned and operated and their applicators have to go to yearly courses for re-certification to make sure they know about the newest vehicles and how to apply the product correctly!

We have used it for years and my old '85 Caravan went to the scrap yard in 2001 (16 years) and the body looked like it did day when it was new! (I had an engine fire).

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Haven't seen rustproofing since my upstate NY days in the late 70's. How do they do it? Do they still drill holes in all the door panels and rockers?

Obviously, you think it's neccessary and think it works. Not to sound stupid, but what/where is the biggest advantage?
 
They drill holes in the doors, quarter panels etc... Then spray their magic fluid in, then put some goop on the hole and put a cap in place to cover the hole until the next application.

It drips like crazy for the first week as it seeps (according to Krown if it doesn't drip then it's not seeping it can't get into the metal folds/welds and crevices and doing it's job properly).

Good part is the Krown stuff doesn't harm concrete/asphalt as it contains no solvents.

They don't even wear masks when putting it on the car because it's so non-toxic.
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Like I said my 16 year old van went to the scrap yard with over 400K KM on it and looked brand new without a spec of rust anywhere!

Plain and simple choice to me...
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Originally Posted By: StevieC
It drips like crazy for the first week as it seeps


For sure it does drip
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for at least the first week and continues for the next month...depending on the weather. (I just got our new vehicle done two weeks back).

As well I am reasonably convinced that one gets good enough protection getting it reapplied every *other* year...rather than yearly. I know one loses out on the Krown warranty but again I am not so concerned about this feature.
 
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Originally Posted By: sayjac
Obviously, you think it's neccessary and think it works. Not to sound stupid, but what/where is the biggest advantage?



It really helps preventing your undercarriage from rusting. Fasteners don't seize, brake lines and fuel lines don't rust out, and most parts won't rust at all. However, everything will be covered in oil, and it is MESSY when you work on your car.

The other big advantage is it helps prvent the body panels from rusting from the inside out. They spray inside all body panels, and they literally stay coated with oil. Things like rocker panels, lower fenders, quarter panels edges all last much longer when "Krowned." But again it's messy, it drips out water drain holes and can make a mess in the door jambs.

That said, I can say living in a VERY salted area, with long winters, oil spray rust proofing works without a doubt. In fact, when I bought my truck, a big selling point for me was that the previous owner Krowned it. Now at 16 years old with over 200 K miles (many of those salty winter miles), this never garaged truck is rust free. I can say the same about my brother's '86 Cutlass Supreme (and if you know these cars, you also know they are very rust prone).
 
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I get it done twice a year. Once in May/June the whole application and then in the fall just before the winter I get just the undercarriage sprayed again. I know it's overkill, but I drive a lot for my job and need a few more miles out of my SUV yet.
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I would say every other year application of Krown would be more than fine because it is one heck of a product.

Anything else I just don't have confidence in.

Seeing my '85 Caravan is believing! I'm trying to find a picture of it to show you all.
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StevieC,

What does the Krown guy say when you show up for the second time? They only do the undercarriage the second time? Do you get a discount?

I have also heard that you can get away with Krowning every other year.
 
He gives it to me half price... He understands that I know that I want that "extra" bit of security to know that my undercarriage is well protected against the daily 8 hours of salt spray in the winter on my road for my job.

My truck has over 170K on it, and it looks brand new, even the CV Boots look like I armoralled them!
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If you drive 25K or less a year I would think every 2 years is more than fine... But if you want the warranty do it each year. Depends on how long you want to keep the vehicle.

Also doing it each year makes things easier to service because nothing gets that baked on rust coating!
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Each year will save your window regulators too!
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Haven't seen rustproofing since my upstate NY days in the late 70's. How do they do it? Do they still drill holes in all the door panels and rockers?

Obviously, you think it's neccessary and think it works. Not to sound stupid, but what/where is the biggest advantage?




My friend's '99 Cavalier is suffering serious structure issues from rust perforation. Too bad, because the engine and the transmission are running like a top (160K miles and counting of hard use and abuse).
 
You can DIY a rustproofing job - your friendly local auto body supply house has 3M schtutz guns, and 3M or Evercoat rustproofing compounds. All you need are basic tools, an air compressor and knowledge of auto body assembly.
 
I actually own all the stuff to do it myself, save the Schutz gun and the solution, but it's just too dam messy. It'll eat pavement like there's no tomorrow.
 
I do mine at Krown because they guarantee the body and they leave the car smelling lemon fresh on the outside and they clean it outside when they are done so it looks good while it drips on your driveway!
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Originally Posted By: firemachine69
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Haven't seen rustproofing since my upstate NY days in the late 70's. How do they do it? Do they still drill holes in all the door panels and rockers?

Obviously, you think it's neccessary and think it works. Not to sound stupid, but what/where is the biggest advantage?



My friend's '99 Cavalier is suffering serious structure issues from rust perforation. Too bad, because the engine and the transmission are running like a top (160K miles and counting of hard use and abuse).


That could be a serious safety issue, especially for the weak Cavalier.
Consider the example of a soda can.It has structural integrity until you put the cracks in it while bending, then the tear will run away from the crack. Same thing happens in a uni-body crash, it tears open like a soda can.
 
Yet another Krown advantage: Cars in the Rust Belt tend to develop tons of electrical problems after 10 or more years of salt exposure. These problems, eg. grounding issues due to corrosion, can be very frustrating and expensive to track down. The Krown creeps into all of the same electrical and ground connections that salt water would otherwise creep into.
 
Originally Posted By: frankm
Yet another Krown advantage: Cars in the Rust Belt tend to develop tons of electrical problems after 10 or more years of salt exposure. These problems, eg. grounding issues due to corrosion, can be very frustrating and expensive to track down. The Krown creeps into all of the same electrical and ground connections that salt water would otherwise creep into.


In all the beaters and cars I have owned, only 1 has had an electrical problem that caused a fire. There is no telling what caused it... I have owned over 10 cars in this age range without electrical issues of any sorts.
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Now if you own German cars, I could see your point!
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Krown does certainly work very well to stop this though!
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Hey StevieC, how long ago did you have your Car Krowned? Did it drip as much as before?

The reason I am asking is because apparently Krown changed their formula so that it doesn't drip as much.

When I rust proofed my car last June or July (can't remember exactly) it didn't drip as much and as long, as the previous years. It actually dripped pretty heavily only for the first day, after that it was anly few spots on the driveway for few more days.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ

The reason I am asking is because apparently Krown changed their formula so that it doesn't drip as much.



I have had my Vibe Krowned last summer and another vehicle last month. And the dripping was fierce for both. I'm not sure I see any difference yet. The most recent application was on May 23 and there is still seepage from the back hatch...but not much any place else.
 
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Hey StevieC, how long ago did you have your Car Krowned? Did it drip as much as before?

The reason I am asking is because apparently Krown changed their formula so that it doesn't drip as much.

When I rust proofed my car last June or July (can't remember exactly) it didn't drip as much and as long, as the previous years. It actually dripped pretty heavily only for the first day, after that it was anly few spots on the driveway for few more days.


I have to agree with 21Rouge. No changes in the dripping amounts... But seeing as it's non-toxic and doesn't hurt your driveway and the stains go away after a couple days... Who cares?!?
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