If Supertech has moly why is it not considered a good oil by a lot of people?
Supertech & Moly
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Because Moly alone does not make a "good" or "great" oil. Lots of other stuff to factor in besides the one additive. I think part of the resistance also has to do with the fact that the product data sheets aren't right out there (doesn't mean they aren't availible) and that the future production of this oil is somewhat of an unknown pending the final disposition of the plant that currently manufactures it.
There's one VOA of SuperTech which looked pretty good and one UOA of ST which looked quite mediocre-- although lots of dino 5W30's are looking like they're losing viscoscity these days. The new ST may look a lot of Equilon/Shell and I'm not convinced that has a better additive package than what's out there now. I'd also be interested in knowing whether the 10W30 holds up better-- I'm thinking that it would.
There is a very good report on Tech 2000 group III in a Mazda, but that oil may be something else entirely since it's made in Canada.
Existing ST may be Specialty or Warren and in the future it may be a totally different product. This lack of consistancy is one reason that some people are turned off by house brands, but lots of name brand oils--Shell for one-- are rumored to have the same inconsistancy.
If I go back to changing my own oil I'll probably switch to (Chevron's) Havoline--probably their synthetic. In the meantime, Wal-Mart provides under $12 oil changes that don't rely on bulk oil. I'm more afraid of some bozo doing a cheap replacement with a bulk oil pirate than I am bottled ST at this point.
[ February 26, 2003, 11:29 AM: Message edited by: csandste ]
There is a very good report on Tech 2000 group III in a Mazda, but that oil may be something else entirely since it's made in Canada.
Existing ST may be Specialty or Warren and in the future it may be a totally different product. This lack of consistancy is one reason that some people are turned off by house brands, but lots of name brand oils--Shell for one-- are rumored to have the same inconsistancy.
If I go back to changing my own oil I'll probably switch to (Chevron's) Havoline--probably their synthetic. In the meantime, Wal-Mart provides under $12 oil changes that don't rely on bulk oil. I'm more afraid of some bozo doing a cheap replacement with a bulk oil pirate than I am bottled ST at this point.
[ February 26, 2003, 11:29 AM: Message edited by: csandste ]
One scathing indictment of the first drain and refill with 5W-30 ST I used at 500-600 miles and then subsequently drained and refilled at 3,000 miles, notwithstanding, the car was still nose deep in its initial break in. Only Hyundai has a clue how much and what kind of build-crap was left in that motor from the factory. The car in question now has ~3,400 miles on 10W-30 ST. Still by no means broken in. Still plan to continue with 10W-30 ST every 3,000 miles and do another analysis at around 12,000 miles. Lotsa UOAs on this forum. ****ed few of them involving a nearly brand new motor.
[I did take the entire induction system apart from the filter box to the throttle body to check for the possibility of air leakage from a "tucked" rubber intake hose, since the silicon levels were double digit. Everything was fine, and the "Hyundai-Mahle" air filter showed no signs of damage to the filtration medium or the soft sealing gasketing. I'm wondering whether the elevated silicon levels might have been the result of whether any silicone-based sealing goop was used during motor assembly. Just a guess...]
[I did take the entire induction system apart from the filter box to the throttle body to check for the possibility of air leakage from a "tucked" rubber intake hose, since the silicon levels were double digit. Everything was fine, and the "Hyundai-Mahle" air filter showed no signs of damage to the filtration medium or the soft sealing gasketing. I'm wondering whether the elevated silicon levels might have been the result of whether any silicone-based sealing goop was used during motor assembly. Just a guess...]
By the time you hit 12K the stuff might be the same as Formula Shell anyway. I think ST's VOA and specs look a lot better than Formula Shell or the Equilon Havoline.
Not sure. In the past they found some sealants were hurting the Oxygen Sensors,,these were the Silicaamorphous and Acetoxysilane types. I think many are using the Dimethylsiloxane type sealants today that still appear as though they are regular old RTV. It would be very difficult I would think to find out exactly what type a manufacturer was using.
Could be the high silicon content of you Hyperuetectic Pistons permiating and wearing in a bit?
[ February 27, 2003, 01:17 PM: Message edited by: dragboat ]
I wonder why if it is not a good oil,do they put moly in it, since it seems moly is an additive used in oil to make it better, it also has good calcium #s,and isnt that also a good thing,I know that one UOA of 5-30 thinned out quickly, but so have alot of 5-30s, and it was also in an engine not totally broke in.
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