My definition of a "good routine" is changing the filter either at the vehicle manufacturer's recommended interval or at the filter manufacturer's interval and avoid Example 3) never changing the air filterI agree. But I would caution those who think that frequent air filter changes are "better"; that's patently wrong. This depends upon how you're defining a "good routine" of air filter changes.
Air filters get more efficient as they load up, and overly-frequent changes can be very detrimental.
Approximately 90% of the contaminants an air filter will pass in its entire life cycle are passed in the first 10% of it's life. If you change more often than necessary, you're just inducing more dirt ingestion than if you had left the air filter in service for longer periods.
See this article by our own Jim Allen:
air filter Archives - Good Sam Camping Blog
www.trailerlife.com
Example ...
If you had a new car and drove it 100k miles, consider these two "routine maintenance" choices:
1) change air filter every 25k miles per OEM schedule
2) change air filter at 50k miles
- in example 1, you would have 4 air filters (OEM plus ones at 25k, 50k, 75k). That's four "new" filters and four early life cycles of high-ingestion rates.
- in example 2, you would only have 2 air filter (OEM plus one at 50k). That's HALF of the "new" filters and therefore half of the high-ingestion rate which comes early in the filter's life.
Unless you live in a super dusty area all the time, OEM air filter changes are grossly over applied. I installed an air intake vacuum gage from Wix; the cost of it is easily paid for by saving a few filter changes and now I know with certainty when to change the filter and don't have to guess. And my engine is all the better for it. Most air filters have far more capacity than people give them credit for.
Super Tech Synthetic 5w30, 10,855 on oil, 2015 F150 2.7L EcoBoost @ 126,584 miles
- Thread starter jmimac351
- Start date
I guess there are some intangibles involved. I would hazard a guess that base oil quality and add pack would be better with the Am soil.
Which is exactly what Blackstone has said.
But BITOG is a lot more than just a motor oil debate website.
I'd say oil is oil just as long as it meets the requirements for your application, with viscosity, SP rating, and Dexos seal.
It's gotten pretty much down to that these days. It may not have been quite that way when BITOG was formed several years ago.
You make it sound like I made the statement. If I'm doing an oil change before a cross country trip with my motor home, believe you me I'd rather set out with Amsoil in the crank case vs SuperTech, Dexos or not.
Why?
I preface this by stating I know ZERO about motor homes and their oil requirements. Not sure if you are pulling a 5th wheel in your truck or if its's a drivable motor home. I guess my question is, what is in the AMSOIL that makes it so much better than the Supertech? Maybe this IS a usage case for spending 5X the cost on the oil?
Volatility, add pack, film strength and long drain capability. Regardless of what the consensus is on bitog , this particular and other similar senarios, I would always go for the Amsoil or Mobil1 EP-AP etc. Oh yeah, forgot about your 5x the cost thing. If I've got a $90k motor home and I'm paying through the nose for bad fuel mileage,. I won't worry about the few extra dollars for engine oil.
Makes sense. Thanks.
these are pretty low bars. M1 EP smokes the $12 warren special
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One of our guys in the panhandle (colder than Cypress) had no issues cranking with 15w40 Delvac during the cold snap … but a Duramax 2500 has a bit more twist and shout behind that start button …
