Super Tech Synthetic 10w-30 - 9,303mi -08' KIA Sportage
- Thread starter JGmazda
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Deleted member 89374
Nope, that's a port injected engine.
The report looks great, however, that TBN of 1.3 means that you used up the oil to its full potential. For a few bucks more I would go for the Mobil 1 EP 10W-30 at your local Walmart, or even the regular Mobil 1 10W-30 should serve you well. Both oils have low NOACK and are really good. Looks like your engine is really easy on the oil, so an added margin of safety wouldn't hurt by bumping up the quality of your motor oil. Whatever you do, just don't go with Pennzoil.
based on what I read on bitog, not sure if any oil can handle 10K in any DI engine .... Was just wondering if ST is the wonder oil doing well (almost 10K) in a DI. guess not. lol but it still did well going almost 9.3K.
I use M1 EP in our 2.4L DI Tuscon and it burns none.
I use M1 EP in our 2.4L DI Tuscon and it burns none.
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Deleted member 89374
I got the same engine in the 2018 Santa Fe Sport and run Castrol EDGE 0W-40 and the engine loves it, fuel economy is great. These DI engines need good oil. That Castrol EDGE 0W-40 is nothing more than a thick 5W-30. Ironically, if you look up the International manuals for these Hyundais, you'll see that they don't recommend 5W-20 for any 2.4 GDI motor. They all start at 5W-30 and go all the way up to 5W-40. It's sad that CAFE regulations managed to brainwash people into thinking that the recommended oils came from the engineers who designed the engine, when most likely they came from the legal department of the manufacturer. Whatever oil is used to pass the EPA fuel mileage test is the oil that has to be recommended to the public for that particular vehicle. So you're not getting the best possible recommendation. Some manufacturers like Toyota and Mazda have smartened up, and include little clues in the Owner's Manual letting customers know that they can something else besides 0W-20 in their engines. I'm not for using oils randomly, but using the right oil for the application is always good. Climate and fuel dilution and even if you have an oil cooler or not should be all considered. Heck, the recommended oil for a 30cc string trimmer is 20W-50. Do you know how tiny that engine is? I'm not advocating for anything like that, all I'm saying is never follow the recommendations blindly. You want low NOACK for cheap? No problem. 10W-30 synthetic is your friend. You want a good oil for a boosted engine that you tuned or are towing heavy loads with a 3.5EB motor? 0W-40 and 5W-50 are your friends.
Yes I use M1 EP 10W30 in this car. Last time however I used GTX Magnatec 10W30 it's not as good as your edge.
I also use PP 5W30 during winter in this car and the first time I used it my wife made a comment that the car sounds quiet ... so I decided to try Magnatec and see if she says anything but mainly using it because of its low Noack (6.9 iirc) for the price.
I also use PP 5W30 during winter in this car and the first time I used it my wife made a comment that the car sounds quiet ... so I decided to try Magnatec and see if she says anything but mainly using it because of its low Noack (6.9 iirc) for the price.
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Deleted member 89374
I got a bunch of Castrol EDGE 0W-40 for like $17 per 5qt jug, and I also got a few 1qt bottles to prime the oil filter. The 10W-30 will have the lowest NOACK. The 2.4 Theta II engine will run on about any oil, however, I live in NC and it gets hot down here. The engine seems to like this oil so I'll stick with it. Mobil 1 FS 0W-40 has a pour point of -60C (found it on the German Mobil 1 web site), and Castrol EDGE 0W-40 is -57C. The Mobil 1 is PAO + GTL if I remember right, while the EDGE is way more PAO + Group III. The Mobil 1 may have slightly more detergents and AW additives, while the EDGE will stay in grade. That being said, when I take off the oil filler cap I can see bright shiny metal inside the valve cover, it looks like it just came from the factory inside my 2.4 GDI. Walmart has both of these oils for the same price on Rollback right now. Give it try, you'll like it.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
2013 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T here as well. I've used ST Syn 5W-30 quite a few times, out to 4k miles, three intervals in a row once. Intermittently after that. Never consumed a noticeable drop of oil. It's worked just as well as the EP and euro oils I've used at this interval.
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Deleted member 89374
We had a 2013 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T a few years back, and because I didn't know any better, I ran Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 in it. It ran fine and didn't consume any oil, but now I know that the Theta II Turbo engine needs thicker and better oil because that tiny turbo tucket inside the exhaust manifold literally cooks the oil. Then I also came across this little gem of a TSB, straight from Hyundai:
Also, read bellow the highlighted portion where they tell dealers to use 5W-40 in turbo engines for proper wear protection. That's something, isn't it? Hyundai basically says that if you have a turbo engine and you follow the viscosity recommendation written on your oil cap and damage results from it, they will not cover it under warranty. At least, that's how I read it. A practical example would be if you live where I live and use some bottom of the barrel 5W-30 and only fill up with 86 octane gas and change your oil once every 5-6000 miles while short ripping the car and running it hard, yep, that will do it. The owner's manual says you can run up to 20W-50 in those engines, but if I was towing with it I would probably run Mobil 1 FS X2 5W-50. Anyway, I just thought it was funny that they issued this TSB while they shipped all these turbo engines with 5W-30 written on the oil cap. At the very least they should have required ACEA C2 C3 oil like Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 or something like that. I was talking to a Hyundai tech that I've known for 15 years and he told me that periodically TSBs come in for vehicles that have 5W-20 on the oil cap and Hyundai asks dealers to change the oil to 5W-30 when the customers come in for an oil change. This is pretty much proof that all these engines that specify 0W-20, 5W-20, and 5W-30 (turbo charged engines) for North America do so only due to CAFE regulations, and in fact, it has nothing to do with keeping them reliable. But hey, if it makes it past the warranty period, it's not the manufacturer's problem anymore, right?
This also makes for a very interesting read: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils
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wemay
Site Donor 2023
Thanks for sharing. We're well past 200k miles on it and I still do use 40s on occasion. I doubt any any API Synthetic 5W-30 would have been cause for concern at my oci. I may still have some Edge 5w40 available for next change.
The TSB can also be viewed more cynically than the ubiquitous CAFE connection
. They may have recommended a 40 to extend the life of any manufacturer defected 2.0T, so as to get those early vehicles past warranty. All of which is 'water under the bridge' now that the engine replacement settlement has occurred. Either way, it's been extremely reliable and we love it.
The TSB can also be viewed more cynically than the ubiquitous CAFE connection
. They may have recommended a 40 to extend the life of any manufacturer defected 2.0T, so as to get those early vehicles past warranty. All of which is 'water under the bridge' now that the engine replacement settlement has occurred. Either way, it's been extremely reliable and we love it.
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Deleted member 89374
Thanks for sharing. We're well past 200k miles on it and I still do use 40s on occasion. I doubt any any API Synthetic 5W-30 would have been cause for concern at my oci. I may still have some Edge 5w40 available for next change.
The TSB can also be viewed more cynically than the ubiquitous CAFE connection
Wow, congratulations! I think that a lot of that has to do with the fact that you took care of your vehicle very well and didn't abuse it. I miss having a turbocharged vehicle. Who knows, maybe one day I'll get one again
I agree with that. Some will fail no matter what, others fail because of abuse or lack of maintenance. Supertech or equivalent are probably just as good as anything at 4k miles or less and fuel dilution and abrasive soot are probably the limiting factor for OCI on those engines. No matter what brand I think a 5w40/0w40 are probably the best choice for longevity.Thanks for sharing. We're well past 200k miles on it and I still do use 40s on occasion. I doubt any any API Synthetic 5W-30 would have been cause for concern at my oci. I may still have some Edge 5w40 available for next change.
The TSB can also be viewed more cynically than the ubiquitous CAFE connection
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Deleted member 89374
I have reached pretty much the same conclusion. Vehicles are too expensive to play fast and loose with motor oil. If you're towing or doing any kind of work with your vehicle, it's even more important to protect the engine and transmission. I was shocked when I read how these thin motor oils are certified, and this is from the GF2/GF3 days. It makes for a good short read. I posted this link before, so I apologize for repeating myself: https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/518/motor-oils
No. Port injected back in 2008.
Glad to hear it and congrats on the nice UOA.Originally Posted by daves87rs
Very nice!
Thinking this oil's sweet spot is 7.5 -8k.
I always like a little cushion for my TBN...because you never know...
Thanks. I think you're right. What also is interesting is that this car lives in a brutally hot environment. I don't baby it. It idles for periods and then combined highway/city driving.
I think Super Tech is a fabulous oil. (Former Mobil 1 user here).
Is the TBN report included in all UOAs at Blackstone, or do you pay more for it?
I'm now running Super Tech 0w20 FS in my 2012 Prius c and it runs like a charm. I'm planning to do a UOA in the Springtime and possibly go to 12 month intervals with it in the future. I only drive 4 to 5k miles a year.
From what I see here ST oil is a bargain oil that compares to name brand oils in UOA reports.
it is $10 more for TBN test I believe
Like I have said before "Oil is oil". They all perform about the same. I realize that seasoned BITOG'ers know that already. But we need to argue about something.
