SUPER TECH 6607 CUT OPEN

ZeeOSix

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Pretty sure the media, etc., is identical between the ST & MPs; so, if First Brands/Champ cheapens the ADBV, there’s really no reason to spend ~50% more on the MP.
Are the number of pleats different between the two in the same model filter? Maybe the MP has more media area for more holding capacity and help gives it the "up to 20K mile" rating - ??.
 
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Pretty sure the media, etc., is identical between the ST & MPs; so, if First Brands/Champ cheapens the ADBV, there’s really no reason to spend ~50% more on the MP. I’m considering picking up some of the sub-$2 RA Champs & see how much media difference there is between an ST or MP7317 and a Champ PH2867.
There are some other slight differences. For example, the st12060 is built like the champ filter (fiber end caps, e core). The MP12060 is identical in construction to the ACDelco PF64 OEM with a thicker gasket, ecore, metal end caps and pretty sure a thicker can. Indeed if they're using nitrile I would reconsider. At that point you might as well get an ST, orange can, tough guard, or OEM. I thought they were running nitrile until supply increases or up until the recent price increase...don't know anymore.
 
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I’m really liking the quality of the Champ Labs filters. Super Tech MP3614 or STP S3614 will go on my Kohler ZT740. I have two FRAM TG4967 filters left for my Kawasaki Mule SX. After those are gone, it will get Super Tech or STP.
I agree. A Champ Labs filter for less than 4 bucks.. no claims about horrible "cheap" filtration.. I bought a Fram 7317 but only because I wanted to pay homage to "Fram is not a bad filter including the Orange can" which is what is on my car right now. Part of me wanted to save that dollar.

@53' Stude either tomorrow or Saturday. Two more filters. Both about 1300 miles on them. Will send. Put mileages and dates on filter housing. Working on sending you the 7317 (the one on there now) in about a month.

Seeing no evidence of bearing material in the filter gives me peace of mind and it sounds like your assessment is that the engine at least doesn't look bad if we're going by what you're seeing in the filter media. I drive pretty hard so I am looking forward to continue the filter mailing, in time.

Now who else would choose a white ST filter over pricier options? (I would. It is not like the choice of filter affects engine performance, as far as I know.)
 
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Since we're on the subject of the ST 6607 filter, does anyone know why the WM site says that the correct filter for a 2007 Honda Odyssey is the 6607 while it says also the the correct Fram is a 7317 but the WM site does not list a MP7317 as good for the 2007 Honda Odyssey but the box of the MP7317 says that it is equivalent to the Fram TG7317?
 
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Since we're on the subject of the ST 6607 filter, does anyone know why the WM site says that the correct filter for a 2007 Honda Odyssey is the 6607 while it says also the the correct Fram is a 7317 but the WM site does not list a MP7317 as good for the 2007 Honda Odyssey but the box of the MP7317 says that it is equivalent to the Fram TG7317?

I noticed something similar for my vehicle application too. The ST6607 shows compatible, but the MP6607 does not. Doesn't make much sense to me, but perhaps there's a reason..
 

ZeeOSix

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I noticed something similar for my vehicle application too. The ST6607 shows compatible, but the MP6607 does not. Doesn't make much sense to me, but perhaps there's a reason..
No sense because the 6607 and 7317 have always been interchangable as long as your engine can take the longer 7317 filter. And it shouldn't matter if it's a ST6607 or a MP6607 ... they are both 6607.
 
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The 2 new filters I put through the engine have been mailed to @53' Stude

The 7317 Fram is $4 and change and is on there now.. I may run the miles up on this one. My first inclanation was to save the dollar and get white can SuperTech, which, amazingly, are still $3 and change. They are all 10,000 mile filters at least.....

Engine is holding up pretty well, let's see what these filters say, the one on there now sure is getting a workout enduring many different Severe Service driving events..
 
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7317 was mentioned.. this guy spent almost $6 on the blue can but I'd go with the cheaper one as well.

My car is a 7317 on it right now and it has been through quite a few severe service driving events I'm just racking up the miles before I go sending it to @53' Stude

 

53' Stude

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The 2 new filters I put through the engine have been mailed to @53' Stude

The 7317 Fram is $4 and change and is on there now.. I may run the miles up on this one. My first inclanation was to save the dollar and get white can SuperTech, which, amazingly, are still $3 and change. They are all 10,000 mile filters at least.....

Engine is holding up pretty well, let's see what these filters say, the one on there now sure is getting a workout enduring many different Severe Service driving events..
I got your two filters. Had Napoleon Dunamite moment looking at return address 🤣🤣

I’ll cut them tomorrow or Saturday after platelet donation 🍻👍🇺🇸🇨🇦
 
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So I light it on fire and the differences are?
What temperatures are we talking about? What catalyst are you using? How hot is the burn? Is it immersed in the burning medium or just a flash like a flash in the pan? How much does... (there is a channel on YouTube drops a really hot golf ball size ball into and onto things..)

Ok so look. It must be my lucky day!

20221014_110110.jpg



I was going to go cheap with 6607's but love of the MP is making me select this one today.

Let's open it up.. ;)

20221014_110150.jpg

20221014_110157.jpg

20221014_110209.jpg

This one will go on there next...
 
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Seems like a good filter for the price especially being made in the USA. This is the ST filter compatible with my 2008 Subaru, but I'm pretty sure the bypass relief is much lower than the 16-28psi you see on more Subaru specific filters. Still thinking about trying it at some point anyway. Thanks for posting.
Is lower PSI a concern with a 5W-30 or 0w30 versus 0w 20?
 
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Is lower PSI a concern with a 5W-30 or 0w30 versus 0w 20?
That's a great question for Subaru engineering. The Subaru bypass relief debacle is a debate spanning over a decade now. I don't know the answer and I am unsure exactly what year the higher bypass spec came into play for OEM. I can tell you I once had a '95 Subaru 2.5L that I bought with 330,000 miles of which most were 3k OCIs from express lube type shops/filters. After I bought it I had ran cheap workshop filters, Fram ExtraGuard PH6607, and Purolator on it. I got 410,000 miles out of that car before someone hit me and totaled it. That was a sad day indeed. The Purolator was the only one I had used on it with a high bypass pressure relief. Unfortunately it ended up seeping oil at the gasket. Not sure if that was my fault or just not a great gasket. It's the only time I've had that happen.

Anywho, I don't know. Nowadays I generally just buy OEM because they're only $6.80/piece, but I do occasionally run aftermarkets.
 
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