Hello, so my Son's 2009 Subaru came with Mobil SuprSyn in it, and didn't seem to have any issue for the 2,000 miles before I did major maintenance. I switched to WM 5W-30 synthetic during the timing belt service at 105,000. Oil level keeps coming up low after 2,000 miles despite adding more. Mechanic says it's probably burning oil at higher rpm. Without going to a thicker viscosity, which synthetic is known to have the best additve package to help retard this issue? Should I go with Mobil 1 and hope for the best?
Super-Tech 5W-30 no bueno?
- Thread starter Jarpin
- Start date
“I switched to WM 5W-30 synthetic during the timing belt service at 105,000.”
I doubt that the brand of oil has anything to do with the consumption.
I doubt that the brand of oil has anything to do with the consumption.
The evil Supertech strikes again.
Zee09
$200 Site Donor 2023
I thought only Mobil 1 did that. 
You might want replaced or check the PCV system!
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- Jul 14, 2020
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oil consumption is a know issue with these engines
go to a 40 weight oil or check the level more often
Sometimes when you switch brands of oil, there will be increased consumption during that first change... that eventually goes away.
Don't ask me how, but I have seen it myself. Or you could have a Subaru with an oil consumption issue. That happens too...
Don't ask me how, but I have seen it myself. Or you could have a Subaru with an oil consumption issue. That happens too...
Been meaning to do that. The PCV is in the same spot as previous generation EJ-25 engines....right?
Well, if the supersyn was not burning, there's your oil.
using the kirkland equivalent, no oil burning at all over 4k. 33k on the motor.
Hmm. I always expected oil consumption on my Forester. Never had any issues on Supertech 0w-20 or 5w-30.
So you bought a car without knowing the oil grade and possibly the oil level and after 2k miles it didn't seem to be an issue until after you started taking note of it 2k after servicing it?
Are you getting an actual low oil level warning on your dash or did you just decide to check the stick and saw it was low. Could be that the engine was burning just the same but you didn't notice, it had a higher viscosity oil, or it was overfilled by a quart which is common. I do that so I'm still in the middle to top half of the stick after 10k intervals. That's not uncommon in buying a 10y+ and 100k+ known oil consumption problem having vehicle.
If i was trying to sell an old used car that is known for oil burning problems id put 20w-50 in it to shut it up and make it burn less and if they ask I'd say it's whatever thin stuff the manual recommends. They wont know for sure unless they did an analysis which most don't. They can't practically do much after the sale anyway.
I'd just try going to a thicker oil. How much is it burning exactly? and how cold will the vehicle be in since Texas can have warm and cold winters.
For the most part a 10w-40 on your nearby shelves won't be as high saps as a euro 0/5w-40 or 5/15w-40 diesel grade and it being a 2009 is probably still needs to pass emissions so a lower saps oil would be best.
I'd try supertech all mileage, quaker state hm or valvoline hm in 10w-40 first and see what happens. Valvoline says their 10w-40 has 850ppm zn and 770ppm ph so not high.
Are you getting an actual low oil level warning on your dash or did you just decide to check the stick and saw it was low. Could be that the engine was burning just the same but you didn't notice, it had a higher viscosity oil, or it was overfilled by a quart which is common. I do that so I'm still in the middle to top half of the stick after 10k intervals. That's not uncommon in buying a 10y+ and 100k+ known oil consumption problem having vehicle.
If i was trying to sell an old used car that is known for oil burning problems id put 20w-50 in it to shut it up and make it burn less and if they ask I'd say it's whatever thin stuff the manual recommends. They wont know for sure unless they did an analysis which most don't. They can't practically do much after the sale anyway.
I'd just try going to a thicker oil. How much is it burning exactly? and how cold will the vehicle be in since Texas can have warm and cold winters.
For the most part a 10w-40 on your nearby shelves won't be as high saps as a euro 0/5w-40 or 5/15w-40 diesel grade and it being a 2009 is probably still needs to pass emissions so a lower saps oil would be best.
I'd try supertech all mileage, quaker state hm or valvoline hm in 10w-40 first and see what happens. Valvoline says their 10w-40 has 850ppm zn and 770ppm ph so not high.
Well, I just got it back from the import mechanic for a wheel bearing replacement , and he had to add almost 3 (THREE)! qts of oil to the crankcase to bring it up to level. There's NO oil leaking into the cooling system indicating a HG issue, based on the fact that there are no oil stains on a white paper towel when dipped into the radiator opening. Must be burning. Mechanic recommended BG MOA at next oil change as an additive to increase wear protection on engine internals.
Agreed, someone saw the issue and dumped the car is the most likely scenario. Seen a lot of questionable cars sold recently with used car prices so high. Nothing sucks like spending 10 - 14k on something that is already half way to the junkyard. Everyone trying to cash in and inventory sucks.
Lol okay then. That’s not the Supertech oil and Mobil 1 isn’t going to fix it. How many miles did it take to get down 3 quarts?
And why are you or the mechanic worried about “wear protection” at this point? All of that makes no sense at all.
How do you know what was in the car when you bought it? You don't unless you put it in yourself. Probably heavy oil and lucas syrup. Now that you changed it, its using oil with the normal viscosity stuff.
While some cars do better on one brand of oil than another ( I have seen it personally ), there really is no reason for it to all of a sudden start doing that with an oil change. There either was some sort of snake oil or super thick oil in there that was stopping the consumption. When I buy a used car, the second it gets home it gets an oil change, even if it was just done. This way if they were trying to hide anything, the truth will come out immediately and it is going back. If it truly wasn't using oil before, then something was done wrong in the timing belt service that is affecting it, or the crankcase had something in it to slow it down significantly. I would check over the PCV system, that is a lot of oil disappearing and the oil brand isn't at fault.
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