Hey¡
my super duty currently has 30k
i am on my third oil change. I used pu when i first got her, for 3k as a clean up, flush oic.
My second one was m1 5w20 for 5k (getting
a uoa for it)
now i usually get whats on sale. That being said, m1 afe 0w20 was on sale, after reading random posts on shearing saying a 20 was to thin for a mustang under aggresive driving drag strip applications. that also specs a 5w20.
the main argument was hp/rev/load related. Now my questiom is my super duty, will it survive running afe? If a 350+ hp car destroys oil what about my 400+ super duty up 8% grades etc?
Super duty running, 0w20 afe questions
- Thread starter hawaiianxj
- Start date
- Status
Also i usually change my oil every...3-4 weeks
20 grade oils simply do not shear out of grade. Also very rarely do they oxidize out of grade either.
Sorry lol
its the new 6.2 gas, same as the ford raptor 80% highway almost 1k a week
I drive in pa and wv, so the hills can be brutal. I find my self at 75% throttle just to keep moving on some of the roads. Mild towing maybe 7k max, but usuallt 300lbs in the bed all the time, also over sized tires.
first oic 3k pu ,
second oic 5k m1
now m1 afe
30k on engine now, im worried afe is not stout enough and im doing 5( oics
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Originally Posted By: dave1251
20 grade oils simply do not shear out of grade. Also very rarely do they oxidize out of grade either.
Originally Posted By: hawaiianxj
Originally Posted By: dave1251
20 grade oils simply do not shear out of grade. Also very rarely do they oxidize out of grade either.
M1 AFE oils contain 150ppm less zinc and phosphorus than their non-AFE conterparts. If you are running your engine hard I would recommend going with the regular 5w20 M1 and its higher anti-wear additive package.
http://www.mobiloil.com/usa-english/motoroil/files/mobil_1_product_guide.pdf
Im looking into getting both those gauges,i was hoping 30k was a good time to start uoa, i bought the truck used. im hoping 5k oics are getting my moneys worth, ill be able to tell soon. Its good to know it wont shear out of grade from abuse. also run a can of lubro moly every oil change, just to raise the moly a little bit.
Another vote for AFE. I ran it all through the unreal heat wave last summer in my Ram, including towing a camper for vacation (and having three XX chromosome types with me over-packing...). We were heavy, temps were well over 100F, I was keeping up with I-10 west Texas traffic flow, and the idle oil pressure *never* went below what it normally runs after the engine warms up. So at least as far as viscosity goes, AFE 0w20 is at least as stable as a 5w30.
Also, I disagree that you need that extra 150 PPM of ZN and P for an engine like your Ford or my Ram. ZDDP really doesn't come into play for the kind of contact pressures that these engines have in their internal parts. It's useful for extremely high pressure sliding contact, like "flat tappet" cam lobes and lifter faces. Ring-to-cylinder pressures just don't typically get high enough to activate the ZDDP sacrificial protection mechanism, and your lifters and timing chains are all rollerized for minimal friction anyway.
Originally Posted By: hawaiianxj
Its good to know it wont shear out of grade from abuse.
Thatd great news 440. I didnt want to drop 100$.on an oil change. I would call my driving abuse just due tp the roads, i frequent the track for my bmw, so i would say driving in wv at 45 is track severity lmao
JHZR2
Staff member
Does the 20wt afe meet the correct ford specs? If so use with confidence.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Does the 20wt afe meet the correct ford specs? If so use with confidence.
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Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Another vote for AFE. I ran it all through the unreal heat wave last summer in my Ram, including towing a camper for vacation (and having three XX chromosome types with me over-packing...). We were heavy, temps were well over 100F, I was keeping up with I-10 west Texas traffic flow, and the idle oil pressure *never* went below what it normally runs after the engine warms up. So at least as far as viscosity goes, AFE 0w20 is at least as stable as a 5w30.
Also, I disagree that you need that extra 150 PPM of ZN and P for an engine like your Ford or my Ram. ZDDP really doesn't come into play for the kind of contact pressures that these engines have in their internal parts. It's useful for extremely high pressure sliding contact, like "flat tappet" cam lobes and lifter faces. Ring-to-cylinder pressures just don't typically get high enough to activate the ZDDP sacrificial protection mechanism, and your lifters and timing chains are all rollerized for minimal friction anyway.
Originally Posted By: Fyrb4ll
I was looking at the PDF of the Raptor 6.2L owner's manual the other day and it listed 5w30 as an alternate for severe service and the OCI was reduced substantially if using a 20W oil and towing, IIRC.
I hope that 5k oic is right within the limit. Ill wait fir the uoa and hope for the best! You guys came thru
Quote:
20 grade oils simply do not shear out of grade.
Quote:
The only engine that recommends 5W30 is the ecoboost.
I would run PU 5w30 at 5K OCI and sleep better.- Status
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