Suitable top-up-oil for MC 5/30 in winter(if needed)?

[97tbird]

Hello all,

I'm using MC 5/30 syn.blend in my 97 T-bird 4.6L for the winter months. In case I need to top-up MC 5/30 during these 5-6 months, IF I encounter any consumption(I might, I/m going to a lower visc. with the 5/30), which would be a good oil to top it up with? I don't think I'm going to use any thing other than MC as brand;
but what about the grade?

(1)Shall I use just MC 5/30 also for topping up or, to beef it up a bit better MC 10/40?
would there be any disadvantage in using MC-10/40 ONLY to top-up?

(2)or should I try something like the Valvoline Synpower oil treatment(very good reviews here) with the MC-5/30 to PREVENT any possible "usage" of MC 5/30?

advice/comments thankfully welcome, as always

 

[Bryanccfshr]

I have found the MC 5w30 to be a very hearty oil.. I would top off with the same IF you need it.

 

[High Plains Drifter]

You could just run a 10w-30 year round.

 

[Audi Junkie]

After putting MC 5w-30 into a few cars, I'm already switching DCO as my generic oil. I actually choose to top or "fortify" with Mobil 1 15w-50 even though it gets cold here. If you are using a pricey oil to fortify, adding it at the start or the cycle would be best. Just see how your car goes on the MC 5w-30, it is 11 cSt afterall and might not need much else. The Mobil DCO and DCO+ line is looking good and running good for me. MC seems nice too. You probally have nothing to worry about.

 

[427Z06]

If I was on a tight budget, I'd stick with the MC 5w-30 to top off. But if you just have to spluge cause you got the OA withdrawl shakes, maybe a $8 bottle of Red Line 5w20 as top off oil will calm your nerves.

 

[Brons2]

quote:

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Originally posted by Audi Junkie:
After putting MC 5w-30 into a few cars, I'm already switching DCO as my generic oil. I actually choose to top or "fortify" with Mobil 1 15w-50 even though it gets cold here. If you are using a pricey oil to fortify, adding it at the start or the cycle would be best. Just see how your car goes on the MC 5w-30, it is 11 cSt afterall and might not need much else. The Mobil DCO and DCO+ line is looking good and running good for me. MC seems nice too. You probally have nothing to worry about.

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Why the Drive Clean over the Motorcraft? Add pack looks better on Motorcraft to me. Both oils are cheap dinos. Is it because the Drive Clean is mostly Group III?

 

[97tbird]

Thanks for all your replies.

it seeems that I'm going to have to have my next OC sooner than I wanted to:
Today I got the news from the oil-change guy(trustworthy and competent) that my intake manifold gasket(NOT the manifold itself) is leaking oil (I've added a quart during the last 6,500 miles, so it's not a lot, but needs to be fixed, he said my alternator and valley below the int.manifold was wet with oil).

Also: the passenger side valve cover gasket is "weeping" oil.
(I went ahead and got the oil changed MC 5/30 for now, 'cause I'm not sure how soon I want to get the repair done)

Since this is going to be the only major repair so far, (the bird has 101k now on the 4.6L mod), I think it's worth getting done; They quoted me a price of $480 parts+labor (manif.gasket and valve cover gaskets on both sides); this price is also including the oil change and the coolant drain/flush/refill that's necessary for the repair.

BTW, is this an OK price?
I know it's mostly labor, but I'm not mechanically skillful enough to do it myself.

After fixing these 2 things, I still plan to run MC 5/30 for winter months, and if all goes well, Bird will have no more oil consumption with new int.manifold gasket and valve cover gaskets.

 

[Whimsey]

Just top off with the MC 5W-30. Since it's a blend and the MC 10W-40 is not, why use it especially in the winter. Anyway that engine was never intended to use "thick" oils. And if you're using "lots" of oil then you should consider Auto RX and if that doesn't work then fix it or live with it. Though before I spent money to fix it I'd see if it passes the state emission tests, it you have any. If it does I'd just keep topping, it's a heck of a lot less expensive than major repair work today, especially if your usage is around 1/qt per 1,000 miles. Heck, Ford considers that normal.

Whimsey