Suggestions? Popped off my valve cover to find this....

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Thanks for the suggestions.

So you mean just pop the cover off, pour in kero with the car not running (obviously) and scrub the ####? I might try that. I don't really want to remove the cams tho b/c removing the timing belt is a hassle, but I can scrub a lot of this gunk out for sure.

I'll try to check the PCV. I popped it off yesterday but didn't change it. So far i've only changed the plugs.

Might drop the pan too to unclog the screen which probably is. And I'll get pics
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And I have zero knowledge of the history of the car. Someone bought it and sold it in 98', then it was sold as a fleet vehicle apparently until 2003 where it was sold at auction. I bought it from a dealership and it was all detailed & clean when I received it
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. Too bad someone didn't take care of oil changes, etc. Good thing Mazda 4-bangers are, for the most part, bulletproof
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[ July 01, 2005, 04:31 PM: Message edited by: 59 Vetteman ]
 
Clean off that top end, pull the pan off, clean the bottom end. Do an Auto-RX treatment... just do it, it will work on this car. The "horridacceleration" will be fixed if you get rid of all that sludge.
 
Auto-RX it and then run some HDEO oil for short intervals for a while. lay off the M1 for a while and spend the money on the ARX and cheaper oil until it gets cleaned up.
 
Wow, the kerosene thing sounds like the worse idea I've heard since port and polishing your heads by sticking a vacuum line into a bag of sand blasting media.

Seems like a really easy way for a few big chunks to fall into a passage way.

Or not drain out of the pan completely due to being at funny angle.

If it works, great, but if it doesn't....bad.
 
quote:
Originally posted by JeepZJ4.0:
Clean off that top end, pull the pan off, clean the bottom end. Do an Auto-RX treatment... just do it, it will work on this car. The "horridacceleration" will be fixed if you get rid of all that sludge.
Click to expand...
lmao...the horridacceleration I posted on the protege board i Admin. They pretty much said "yep thats how fast my car is"...so it isn't really the sludge holding it back IMO. But it could be losing a couple ponies.

The engine is rated at 92hp and 96 torque...not a screamer, but it gets around fine, since its a 5-speed
 
i actually have seen only one other case this bad. That was a KL-ZE (millennia style) with 67,000km's on the clock... WITH THE FACTORY FILL. The oil was jelly, and black paste was caked everywhere. People in Japan take that disposable car law pretty literally.
 
quote:
Originally posted by darkdan:
Wow, the kerosene thing sounds like the worse idea I've heard since port and polishing your heads by sticking a vacuum line into a bag of sand blasting media.

Seems like a really easy way for a few big chunks to fall into a passage way.

Or not drain out of the pan completely due to being at funny angle.

If it works, great, but if it doesn't....bad.
Click to expand...
I have to agree with darkdan. That much crud coming loose all at once would really concern me.

Auto-RX would gently dissolve this over time (just like it built up). While you didn't see any results with the other vehicle (it may have been clean to begin with) I have no doubts you'll see results with this one.
 
Ask the Schaeffer site sponsor about Neutra. It's a fuel conditioner, but it can be used in oil also to clean sludge. It's much cheaper than AutoRX.
 
Here's what I would do:

1. Wipe/scrape off what you can under the valve cover.

2. Change the oil & filter. Substitute 1 qt. of oil with 1 qt. of Marvel Mystery Oil. Use any name brand 15w40 diesel oil for the rest of the oil. Run this mix for 1000 miles.

3. Drain & re-fill with this same MMO/diesel oil treatment every 1000k miles. Do this five times. Don't forget to change the oil filter each time.

4. After 5k miles, remove the valve cover again & re-evaluate.

p.s. when is the last time you changed the pcv vavle on this car?
 
quote:
Wow, the kerosene thing sounds like the worse idea I've heard since port and polishing your heads by sticking a vacuum line into a bag of sand blasting media.
Click to expand...
lol.gif
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I wish we had an "Amazing Stories" section dedicated to ill conceived techniques. I could probably add a couple myself ..but this one really strikes that "snatching defeat from the jaws of victory" type chord.

One of my most fond "mechanical Darwin awards" went to a fellow who couldn't get his drain plug off ..so he started the engine and pumped the old oil out with the filter off. Pure genius.

(Bud singing commercial)

Real men of genius ....
grin.gif
 
That is a piece of cake! I can still see all of the parts clearly! It is not sludged up until you cannot even see the valvetrain parts. Like someone packed it with coffee grounds!

I would take a solvent brush and a botle of B-12 to the top of the head. Start the engine up for about 30 seconds and shut it down.

Change oil and oil filter and put in cheap oil API aproved oil SJ or better. Then put 16 onces of LC and do a 30 minute flush at about 1500 RPM's. Then drain out the oil and refil. Install 2 onces of LC per quart of oil as initial fill. From here on out do a 3000 mile OCI and keep adding 2 onces per quart per 1000 miles. I am going to guess that within 10,000 miles of useing LC this way it should be completely clean!

Truthfuly I would normaly recomend Auto-Rx for this as it is best at sludge removal but since you do not want Auto-Rx Lube COntrol is the next best thing.

On a praticle note I have cleaned up engines worse then that one with old school solvents and synthetic oil. I had one that after I cleaned it with B-12, a puty knife,screw driver and a shop vac I ran Synthetic oil in it for 3000-5000 mile oil changes. Every oil change I ran a Flush like B-12(whole can not the 1/2 can),Golden Eagle,Gunk 5 minute flush etc.... Two years latter when I had the valve cover off again and the pan off it was as clean as could be.If AUto-Rx would have been around back then I would have tried at least one treatment prior to doing any solvent type flush. That engine is still running fine and still does not use any oil! IT does not leak any oil either.
 
quote:
Originally posted by wavinwayne:
Here's what I would do:

1. Wipe/scrape off what you can under the valve cover.

2. Change the oil & filter. Substitute 1 qt. of oil with 1 qt. of Marvel Mystery Oil. Use any name brand 15w40 diesel oil for the rest of the oil. Run this mix for 1000 miles.

3. Drain & re-fill with this same MMO/diesel oil treatment every 1000k miles. Do this five times. Don't forget to change the oil filter each time.

4. After 5k miles, remove the valve cover again & re-evaluate.

p.s. when is the last time you changed the pcv vavle on this car?
Click to expand...
I bought the car 3 days ago, i have no clue when anything has been changed. No mechanical records whatsoever.

To be expected when you buy a $2000+ car for $550 lol.


BTW: The car has a brand new filter & oil in it. T he dealership that passed it on to me changed it and topped off fluids & pressure washed the bay before they sold it to me. I pulled the dipstick and it was golden/clear as can be.

I might duump a bottle of that MMO stuff in there and see what happens. Once i start delivering pizzas with this car regularly, it'll see a good 200-400 a week in mileage & stop & go....i'll try to document progress w/pics. should be fun
smile.gif
 
$4.50 (1 quart MMO) + $3.90 (3 quarts cheap 15w40) + $10 (5 oil filters) = $52 in 5,000 miles

$44 (2 bottles of auto-rx) + $12 (12 quarts of cheap oil) + $6 (3 oil filters) = $62 in 6,500 miles

So the MMO route is $0.0104 a mile.

The auto-rx route is $0.0095 roughly.

Plus, Frank will refund his money if he's not happy. No mystery about my choice.
 
One of my most fond "mechanical Darwin awards" went to a fellow who couldn't get his drain plug off ..so he started the engine and pumped the old oil out with the filter off. Pure genius.

(Bud singing commercial)

Real men of genius ....
grin.gif
[/QB][/QUOTE]

I had a '69 Impala that I did the exact same thing to for years. The drain plug seemed to be welded in. Changing the oil like that never seemed to hurt a thing. Not recommended but it worked well enough.
 
quote:
I had a '69 Impala that I did the exact same thing to for years. The drain plug seemed to be welded in. Changing the oil like that never seemed to hurt a thing. Not recommended but it worked well enough.
Click to expand...
(sudden silence drops upon the room like a shroud. You could hear a pin drop)

Pssst-KW ..just quietly turn around and walk out of the room ..maybe they'll let you live (shhh).
grin.gif
 
Add a quart of kero or diesel to the oil and run for 100 miles change oil do that 2 or 3 times and check progress. Aromatic oils are used in indusrial application but they are not avalible in quarts or even gallon cans.
Bruce
 
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