heres my 2 cents. I don't know much about pan heaters since I've never had one. If you're starting the truck above 0 degrees, then I would think the heater is unneccessary. I would stick with the 5w30 if I were you, and there is nothing wrong with using it year-round. With your cold temps there is no reason to go to any type of xxw40, it is thicker and won't serve any purpose in your application. Since you don't drive it a lot, and have very cold winters, stick with your current OCI and your choice of any 5w30 dino, synthetic blend or high mileage. Wal mart seems to have the best prices.
Suggestion for a newbie? 1992 Chev Suburban
- Thread starter natenkiki2004
- Start date
- Status
I just sold my '93 'Burb in the spring. Great truck, rock solid reliable and had a strong running 350 with just shy of 250K miles on it.
I used to run HDEO for the flat tappets. Due to the cold winters we see here, I ran Esso XD-3 0W30 HDEO synthetic. I switched at a high mileage with zero consumption or leaks, but my motor was leak free before hand. I am not sure how cold your area is, but a few years ago we saw -40F, although typically -20F is our colder days. If you don't see temps that low, a 5W30 or 5W40 HDEO would be fine. Typically a HDEO 30 weight will be a bit thicker than a conventinal oil 30W.
As for cold weather operation, that old cast iron 350 with a HUGE coooling system (front and rear heat) used to take a long time to heat up. I used a coolant block heater, a winterfront to assist with faster warm ups. I rarely ideled the truck, unless it was very cold. You're temperature gauge is reading low. Check your thermostat and also check your coolant temperature sensor. My sensor went bad a few years ago, and although the engine warmed up fine, the gauge read low all the time. Quick, cheap and easy fix.
I also installed a oil pan heater later on with the truck (I didn't need it, just playing around). In any case, it definitely will make it easier to turn over even with a thin synthetic at extreme cold temperatures. Heated oil will be thinner than non-heated oil. The first number refers to the viscosity of the oil at low temperatures, while the second is the viscosity at operating temperatures. For exmample, 5W30 compared to a 0W40 will be thicker when sitting cold in the oil pan at 0F, but will be thinner when operating at in the engine at operating temperature. An oil (regardless of rating) is always thicker at colder temperatures though, the viscosity rating just measures how thick it is compared to others at the same relative temperatures.
I used to run HDEO for the flat tappets. Due to the cold winters we see here, I ran Esso XD-3 0W30 HDEO synthetic. I switched at a high mileage with zero consumption or leaks, but my motor was leak free before hand. I am not sure how cold your area is, but a few years ago we saw -40F, although typically -20F is our colder days. If you don't see temps that low, a 5W30 or 5W40 HDEO would be fine. Typically a HDEO 30 weight will be a bit thicker than a conventinal oil 30W.
As for cold weather operation, that old cast iron 350 with a HUGE coooling system (front and rear heat) used to take a long time to heat up. I used a coolant block heater, a winterfront to assist with faster warm ups. I rarely ideled the truck, unless it was very cold. You're temperature gauge is reading low. Check your thermostat and also check your coolant temperature sensor. My sensor went bad a few years ago, and although the engine warmed up fine, the gauge read low all the time. Quick, cheap and easy fix.
I also installed a oil pan heater later on with the truck (I didn't need it, just playing around). In any case, it definitely will make it easier to turn over even with a thin synthetic at extreme cold temperatures. Heated oil will be thinner than non-heated oil. The first number refers to the viscosity of the oil at low temperatures, while the second is the viscosity at operating temperatures. For exmample, 5W30 compared to a 0W40 will be thicker when sitting cold in the oil pan at 0F, but will be thinner when operating at in the engine at operating temperature. An oil (regardless of rating) is always thicker at colder temperatures though, the viscosity rating just measures how thick it is compared to others at the same relative temperatures.
Looks like I was a little off on my water temp predictions...
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/headshot/car/DSCF1237.JPG
That picture was taken after 30 miles of highway driving and pulling up to a parking spot. That was 3.5 hours ago and it's 50F right now at 1:45PM so it was probably a fair bit colder. It currently has 10W-30 NAPA oil in it now.
Seeing that colder weather is coming, shouldn't the engine run a little bit warmer? Maybe block 1/4 of the radiator with cardboard? Or is that a horrible idea?
Looking in my records, the thermostat was replaced in 2004. I thought I had it done a few years ago as well but don't have any record of it. It seems to work fine...
I didn't get to Walmart today, will go on Friday. Although, I did see O'reillys has what looks like a 5-quart jug of Valvoline on sale for $21.99, maybe they have the maxlife too. I'll stop in and check on Friday.
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/headshot/car/DSCF1237.JPG
That picture was taken after 30 miles of highway driving and pulling up to a parking spot. That was 3.5 hours ago and it's 50F right now at 1:45PM so it was probably a fair bit colder. It currently has 10W-30 NAPA oil in it now.
Seeing that colder weather is coming, shouldn't the engine run a little bit warmer? Maybe block 1/4 of the radiator with cardboard? Or is that a horrible idea?
Looking in my records, the thermostat was replaced in 2004. I thought I had it done a few years ago as well but don't have any record of it. It seems to work fine...
I didn't get to Walmart today, will go on Friday. Although, I did see O'reillys has what looks like a 5-quart jug of Valvoline on sale for $21.99, maybe they have the maxlife too. I'll stop in and check on Friday.
Originally Posted By: natenkiki2004
Looks like I was a little off on my water temp predictions...
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/headshot/car/DSCF1237.JPG
That picture was taken after 30 miles of highway driving and pulling up to a parking spot. That was 3.5 hours ago and it's 50F right now at 1:45PM so it was probably a fair bit colder. It currently has 10W-30 NAPA oil in it now.
Seeing that colder weather is coming, shouldn't the engine run a little bit warmer? Maybe block 1/4 of the radiator with cardboard? Or is that a horrible idea?
Looking in my records, the thermostat was replaced in 2004. I thought I had it done a few years ago as well but don't have any record of it. It seems to work fine...
I didn't get to Walmart today, will go on Friday. Although, I did see O'reillys has what looks like a 5-quart jug of Valvoline on sale for $21.99, maybe they have the maxlife too. I'll stop in and check on Friday.
Like I said in my post, if the thermostat is still good, it's probably your temp sensor. It should be aroun 200 at normal operating temp, even in winter, even without cardboard.
Looks like I was a little off on my water temp predictions...
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/464376/headshot/car/DSCF1237.JPG
That picture was taken after 30 miles of highway driving and pulling up to a parking spot. That was 3.5 hours ago and it's 50F right now at 1:45PM so it was probably a fair bit colder. It currently has 10W-30 NAPA oil in it now.
Seeing that colder weather is coming, shouldn't the engine run a little bit warmer? Maybe block 1/4 of the radiator with cardboard? Or is that a horrible idea?
Looking in my records, the thermostat was replaced in 2004. I thought I had it done a few years ago as well but don't have any record of it. It seems to work fine...
I didn't get to Walmart today, will go on Friday. Although, I did see O'reillys has what looks like a 5-quart jug of Valvoline on sale for $21.99, maybe they have the maxlife too. I'll stop in and check on Friday.
Like I said in my post, if the thermostat is still good, it's probably your temp sensor. It should be aroun 200 at normal operating temp, even in winter, even without cardboard.
I don't think the temp sensor has ever been touched, I just went out and looked at it and it's all corroded on the outside, probably the one it shipped with from the factory. The water temp never gets higher than the picture shows except maybe during the summer hauling a load up the various hills on the highway we travel. But even then, it never gets close to the 210F mark.
I'll get to NAPA tomorrow and see what one of those runs, might just pick one up.
Thanks for the tip.
How's the oil pressure look?
I'll get to NAPA tomorrow and see what one of those runs, might just pick one up.
Thanks for the tip.
How's the oil pressure look?
Check your thermostat first, they do go bad and are cheap an easy to fix.
Oil pressure looks fine, I am assuming that's at idle? Factory gauges aren't always the most accurate though.
Oil pressure looks fine, I am assuming that's at idle? Factory gauges aren't always the most accurate though.
This has gotten way off topic hehe
How do I check the thermostat? I pulled the plug on the coolant temp sensor and checked for resistance as per my Chilton's guide and oddly enough, I don't get any kind of reading. Swapped the leads around, changed the resistance rating on my multimeter, nothing. I'm not sure if my cheap multimeter is acting up or if that sensor is really fried. I would expect some kind of reading, even if it's WAY off what it should be.
Those gauges were at idle. I had just pulled into a parking lot, got my camera, and took it.
Those gauges were at idle. I had just pulled into a parking lot, got my camera, and took it.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: natenkiki2004
This has gotten way off topic hehe
How do I check the thermostat? I pulled the plug on the coolant temp sensor and checked for resistance as per my Chilton's guide and oddly enough, I don't get any kind of reading. Swapped the leads around, changed the resistance rating on my multimeter, nothing. I'm not sure if my cheap multimeter is acting up or if that sensor is really fried. I would expect some kind of reading, even if it's WAY off what it should be.
Those gauges were at idle. I had just pulled into a parking lot, got my camera, and took it.
Feel the hoses, if the return is hot then usually the thermostat is opening. You can pull it our and throw it in a pot of boiling water to see if it opens and closes.
Personally, if I lived in a place with that cold of winters I'd replace the thermostat and coolant temp sensor now since they are both cheap and easy to do before it gets colder. Cheap insurance to make sure you've got good heat.
This has gotten way off topic hehe
Those gauges were at idle. I had just pulled into a parking lot, got my camera, and took it.
Feel the hoses, if the return is hot then usually the thermostat is opening. You can pull it our and throw it in a pot of boiling water to see if it opens and closes.
Personally, if I lived in a place with that cold of winters I'd replace the thermostat and coolant temp sensor now since they are both cheap and easy to do before it gets colder. Cheap insurance to make sure you've got good heat.
Jay, I will do that. I think I might just replace everything in the near future just to make sure it's working properly. I tried to test the sensor but got no reading then the guy at NAPA told me that there's 2 sensors and sure enough, there's another one on the side of the engine. I'm not sure which is which but like you said, they're cheap enough to replace and likely haven't been done on this vehicle ever.
I got to Walmart and saw the Valvoline MaxLife at about $17 for a 5-quart jug. I thought it would be more. I'd like to get the NextGen stuff but it's only available in the quarts which makes it somewhere around 30% more expensive compared to the jug.
What kind of OCI should I be looking at with the MaxLife? 3K miles might be around 5-6 months. I think I have about 1.5K miles on the current change and it's been in there just shy of 3 months.
I got to Walmart and saw the Valvoline MaxLife at about $17 for a 5-quart jug. I thought it would be more. I'd like to get the NextGen stuff but it's only available in the quarts which makes it somewhere around 30% more expensive compared to the jug.
What kind of OCI should I be looking at with the MaxLife? 3K miles might be around 5-6 months. I think I have about 1.5K miles on the current change and it's been in there just shy of 3 months.
Originally Posted By: natenkiki2004
Jay, I will do that. I think I might just replace everything in the near future just to make sure it's working properly. I tried to test the sensor but got no reading then the guy at NAPA told me that there's 2 sensors and sure enough, there's another one on the side of the engine. I'm not sure which is which but like you said, they're cheap enough to replace and likely haven't been done on this vehicle ever.
I got to Walmart and saw the Valvoline MaxLife at about $17 for a 5-quart jug. I thought it would be more. I'd like to get the NextGen stuff but it's only available in the quarts which makes it somewhere around 30% more expensive compared to the jug.
What kind of OCI should I be looking at with the MaxLife? 3K miles might be around 5-6 months. I think I have about 1.5K miles on the current change and it's been in there just shy of 3 months.
I just glanced on rockauto.com and saw everything you need (sensors and thermostat) for under 30 bucks. So that's good news.
If you only put 3k on your oil in 6 mos or 6k in a year. I would put a high mileage conventional oil in there and change it yearly. Maxlife 5w30 should be a good year round oil for your temperature changes.
Jay, I will do that. I think I might just replace everything in the near future just to make sure it's working properly. I tried to test the sensor but got no reading then the guy at NAPA told me that there's 2 sensors and sure enough, there's another one on the side of the engine. I'm not sure which is which but like you said, they're cheap enough to replace and likely haven't been done on this vehicle ever.
I got to Walmart and saw the Valvoline MaxLife at about $17 for a 5-quart jug. I thought it would be more. I'd like to get the NextGen stuff but it's only available in the quarts which makes it somewhere around 30% more expensive compared to the jug.
What kind of OCI should I be looking at with the MaxLife? 3K miles might be around 5-6 months. I think I have about 1.5K miles on the current change and it's been in there just shy of 3 months.
I just glanced on rockauto.com and saw everything you need (sensors and thermostat) for under 30 bucks. So that's good news.
If you only put 3k on your oil in 6 mos or 6k in a year. I would put a high mileage conventional oil in there and change it yearly. Maxlife 5w30 should be a good year round oil for your temperature changes.
- Status
Similar threads
