Suggestion for a newbie? 1992 Chev Suburban

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Hey all. I've been a lurker on here for a while but recently registered because I want to ask a few specific questions that I haven't been able to find answers for.

First off, I want to say that the "Motor Oil University" has been very insightful and has made me understand aspects of oil that I have never thought of before.

Following the forum sticky, here's my answers to the questions:
1. What kind of vehicle you have
- 1992 Chevy Suburban 2WD. Pretty sure it's got the 350 engine in it, has an oil cooler too. Was an old forest service rig, had very little use 6-7 years ago but had a lot of work done to it and it's now our main vehicle.
2. What your owner's manual says -- not just viscosity, but certifications (look for acronyms like API SM, ILSAC GF-4, etc.) and change intervals as well
- I know the fill cap says 5W-30, beyond that, I have no idea. I can go out tomorrow and look to see if there's more info. I believe the Chilton's manual says 7500 for OCI which seems pretty high to me.
3. Where you live
- North Idaho
4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?)
- Pretty easy most of the time. Usually let the car warm up a minute or two before heading off during the winter, especially if it's straight to the highway.
5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?)
- Living in the country, the usual trips are a mile or so into the small town, run some errands, back home. Maybe once a week or so, drive 20-30 highway miles to the bigger city for other errands. I do live near the highway so after 1/2 mile of 20-30mph, I immediately get up to 40-50mph depending on where I'm going.
6. Whether your car has any known problems
- A lot of work has been put into it but there are some remaining issues. Seems to be a bit of seeping/wetness on the oil pan and tranny pan as well as some wetness next to the pumpkin in the rear. There might also be some seepage, I'm not 100% sure what the area is called though, there's 2 elongated black covers on the top of the engine, maybe the valve covers? They both seem, not wet but not exactly dry either. With that said, there's no leak bad enough where we lose any noticeable amount of oil, never have to top it off aside from shortly after changing the oil. Engine runs real smooth, starts surprisingly well at times.


So, here's my sin. The burb has pretty much always had whatever conventional oil has been cheapest. I did run some SuperTech High Mileage in it earlier this year but that's been changed out for NAPA 10W-30 (for the summer). Typically, I don't think we usually hit 3K miles on OCI, sometimes not even 2K. But, we have gone 5-6 months between changes. Now that it's getting cooler (below 48F at 8:30PM as I write this now), I want to at least change to 5W-30 but after reading the "Motor Oil University" posts, I'm wondering if a 0W-30 synthetic would be better. After reading that article, I did go out and get some M1 0W-30 synthetic for my snowblower as sometimes it doesn't even get above freezing during the day here.

Being that the burb is aging and might have a questionable seal here & there, I'm very cautious about sticking some synthetic in there. Is this worry unfounded anymore or is it still an issue with synthetic? Is 0W-30 even recommended for this 'vintage'? I want to treat the burb a bit better since it's our main vehicle and give it a bit more care. One final question, are oil pan heaters still recommended? Typically during the winter, I'd plug it in 20-30 minutes before leaving if it's anything below 40F.

Thanks in advance for any help
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Don't know how many miles you have on it, with the 2-3k changes the cheapest conventional was not a sin, it was smart to do. Try the 0-30 and see how it does. Pennzoil yellow bottle 5w 30 is excellent also. Pan heater sounds like a reasonable idea, how cold does it get there ?
 
0w30 is only best if you never really town with that truck, if you do you run the risk of shearing the oil down in weight and crating more wear than the 350s naturally put off, if you tow go to 5w30/10w30.

And technically any oil at room temp is too thick to properly lubricate the oil, it is once it reaches 212F that it becomes an optimal lubricant.
 
Wow, bunch of replies
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I did totally forget to mention mileage. I'm drawing a blank now but I think it's 140-160K. Never tow with it but I do want to get a trailer, however, it would only be hauled in warmer weather when I have 5W-30 or 10W-30 back in it.

As far as temps here, it can stay under freezing for days. I have seen negative temps overnight for a week or so. Typically we don't go out driving in that weather. Mostly looking to get a good oil to last the winter with startup temps between 20-40F with an oil pan heater.

Rotella 5W-40? I run the 15W-40 (non conventional) in my motorcycle since it's JASO-MA rated. Isn't 40 too heavy for the burb, especially for winter time? It doesn't smoke or noticeably use any oil.
 
Originally Posted By: natenkiki2004
Wow, bunch of replies
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I did totally forget to mention mileage. I'm drawing a blank now but I think it's 140-160K. Never tow with it but I do want to get a trailer, however, it would only be hauled in warmer weather when I have 5W-30 or 10W-30 back in it.

As far as temps here, it can stay under freezing for days. I have seen negative temps overnight for a week or so. Typically we don't go out driving in that weather. Mostly looking to get a good oil to last the winter with startup temps between 20-40F with an oil pan heater.

Rotella 5W-40? I run the 15W-40 (non conventional) in my motorcycle since it's JASO-MA rated. Isn't 40 too heavy for the burb, especially for winter time? It doesn't smoke or noticeably use any oil.


I'd use it, It's possibly the next fill in my truck that spec's 5w20...
At 140-160K and a low W weight, I'd run it year round TBCH.
Your Burb will love the stuff, the T6 is the Full Synthetic of the Triple Protection flavor, High TBN, Zinc etc.
 
I know that the Rotella both conventional & synthetic is available at my Walmart so that's good but I'm still concerned about a 40 weight in a cooler environment. Also, is the 7,500 mile OCI still valid even after a year? I think as-is, we don't put much more than 6K on it in a year. With the heat cycles, won't all that time deplete additives in a year?

daves87rs, I think I've seen Valvoline Maxlife at Walmart too. I'll keep it in mind.

I'm still open to other suggestions, especially talk about synthetics in older vehicles.
 
I don't think you've got a bad a plan from what you were doing. On an older engine like that, I'd probably grab some Mobil Super 5000 5-30 or Pennzoil 5-30 and call it done. Change it out every 6 months or so with a decent filter. L34631 I believe is the Purolator classic number. Might try the HM version of those oils if you'd like to try slowing down those seeping gaskets.
 
Originally Posted By: natenkiki2004
I know that the Rotella both conventional & synthetic is available at my Walmart so that's good but I'm still concerned about a 40 weight in a cooler environment. Also, is the 7,500 mile OCI still valid even after a year? I think as-is, we don't put much more than 6K on it in a year. With the heat cycles, won't all that time deplete additives in a year?

daves87rs, I think I've seen Valvoline Maxlife at Walmart too. I'll keep it in mind.


I'm still open to other suggestions, especially talk about synthetics in older vehicles.



its a 5W40, the 5W is the winter viscosity, it will do fine.
the TBN of a HDEO is high enough that it will be more stable over time versus some others.
Rotella T6 is a Full Synthetic BTW, T5 is a Synthetic Blend

My Grandfather who passed a few years ago was a truck driver, anything not used in his semi (In this case Delvac or Rotella 15w40) was put in his 87 Suburban. and HE lived in Illinois.

I dont recommend using a 15w in cooler temps, but he had his ways.

I say Rotella T5 10w30 or Rotella T6 5w40.
If youre hesitant on putting a HDEO or a 5w40 in your vehicle look at QSHM or Pennzoil HM, both are good sturdy oils, QSHM having a good Zinc pack on top for only 15$ and some change.
 
I have a 98 suburban and have tried all sorts of stuff. I have really gotten to like the MaxLife semi synthetic. I never found the full synth version. I also have run Rotella 15-40 in it in the warmer weather with good results. Up till a few years ago, it had a steady diet of Mobil 1. Nothing against the Mobil but I think the engine is quietest on the MaxLife.
 
+1.
I'd use Maxlife 5W-30 year 'round in this beast.
Nextgen or red bottle, doesn't matter.
I've had good results with both.
I'd probably just change with Maxlife every six months and be done with it.
From what the OP said, it doesn't get cold enough where he lives to be seriously concerned about using a 0W-XX oil.
I'd forget the Rotella T6.
Check the UOA forum for UOAs of the current formula.
Nothing special in gassers, but maybe better with ULSD.
 
I run the 10W30 Maxlife in my ol' '94 TBI Sub, it's at 224K now, it's had everything from 20W50 to 5W30 in it, just keeps running! As long is your oil pressure is good, I would just stick with 5W30.
 
You need zinc in your oil. This is a flat tappet engine. I have the same 350TBI in my 1990 K1500. I run 10w40 Valvoline in my truck, with two ounces of Lucas Break-In additive. This stuff is $15 for a 12 or 16 oz. bottle, but it has a ZDDP concentration of 50,000 ppm.

HDEO oils have higher levels on zinc...Rotella or Delo or Delvac.

5w40 would be perfect in your truck. Or Mobil 1 0w40 or M1 TDT.

But any 5w30 will be fine if its not burning any oil....but M1 5w30 High Mile would be my first choice in this weight.
 
Lotsa advice, here's mine, FWIW...

1)If the manufacturer says 5w-30, you should use 5w-30. I certainly don't think i know more about motor oil for your car than the people who engineered it.

2) Despite all the brand loyalty 'round here, as long as the specs are all the same, all motor oil is really just about the same *Gasp!*, even the unbranded stuff at WalMart. So, pick a brand you like, or that's on sale, and as long as the specs are what GM recommends, you're golden.

3) I think it's unadvisable to switch a high mileage car that's had a steady diet of dino and switch to syn. Aside from the *Gasp!* fact that the actual protection offered isn't really THAT great, the seals in your older engine will leak like a MF if you put syn in.

4) Probably the best thing you can do for you engine is to select a 5w-30 you like, and then get a good filter (I like PureOne), which will filter out the crud and such, protecting your engine and keeping your oil cleaner. Also, forget the additives, your oil doesn't need it, and if your engine has been running well all this time (especially if it's been exposed to hard use) and it;s been fine, then it will continue to be fine.

Good look with your new car, and enjoy your part of our country, it's really beautiful out there.
 
I don't know much about the 0W-xx synthetics, so won't comment on brands of those. They might make good sense in your winters, especially since it's cold enough you're using a block heater.
As far as the question of a high-end synthetic finding leaks you didn't know you had - I don't know, the same thing worries me and I've not had the guts to risk it.

I'd probably use Quaker State Defy 5w30 in the winter, 10w30 in summer. The 10w30 version is slightly thicker when hot and has higher HTHS according to the datasheet.
http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140007079157_201203220840.pdf
Depending on oil pressure, I wouldn't be opposed to 10w40 in summer at your discretion.
QS Defy is cheap at WalMart.

I don't know much about Rotella but that's something else I'd look into.
 
Like several have said, pretty much any oil would do, but as said earlier, my suburban likes the maxlife. I also am not sold on going to a synthetic at any time or mileage causes oil leaks, I have done that countless times on several vehicles with no negative results or leaks. I also don't think a slight change in weight will have any negative impact, been there and done that many times too and never saw any negative impact. Not saying you should go and run a gear box weight oil or something, but any 0-20 and 30-50 wouldn't hurt.

Go with whatever you choose and I'm sure things will be fine.
 
Sorry it took so long to reply, other projects and life get in the way of nerding out on online forums sometimes
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Anyway, I went and re-read all the posts (thank you all again for your opinions and experience!) and I've come to the consensus that most of you recommend Valvoline Maxlife. I'll be going to Walmart so I'll take this info and see what they have and what the prices are. I'll still consider Rotella for summer time when the temps soar and that's also when the most use is seen.

In the mean time, I have a few questions about this Burby:

- I've seen oil pressure mentioned a few times and I do keep an eye on the gauge but I'm not sure what it means. What is the proper "zone" for optimum operation? I'm not sure off the top of my head what the gauge ratings are but it always seems to be just a little less than halfway.
- Also, I've seen many times on here that oil has to warm up enough to be effective so this makes me wonder about the water temp. It's always really low, barely above the first major notch which I think is 110F. I know that in normal operation, the water temp won't be near the oil temp but I'm wondering if it should be a bit warmer, especially in the winter. This makes me question sticking some cardboard in front of the radiator or something to help the engine hold heat.
- On the same subject of heat, I'm a bit confused on oil pan heaters. I have one and generally always plug it in before heading out on a cold morning, just out of habit. But is this really right? How is it that we have winter oil ratings yet people say the oil has to warm up to be effective? Isn't that what the winter ratings are for? With a cold engine, wouldn't it be better to start it with the oil being at 5W consistency (unheated) rather than 30W consistency (heated)? Let everything warm up gradually at the same time? Is an oil pan heater really effective, wouldn't a radiator heater do better? Or perhaps both?

Sorry about all the questions, it's just stuff I've been thinking about
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