Subaru on M1 - Do I need to change?

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Melman

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Vehicle is Mom's 2002 Legacy Wagon, about 80K miles. Had routine dealer maintenance and OCI about 4K. At about 78K miles I offered to change the oil as early Christmas present for Mom. Got Mobil 1 0w30 on rollback at Wally's, and a Napa gold filter since they owed me a refund. Told Mom no need for oil change until Sept (one full year) due to great oil and filter combo. Would likely be about 6-7K OCI. Seems like I overfilled it a hair (1/4" above full), shouldn't be a big deal, right?

Checked the oil yesterday, no change in level. Less than 2K on Mobil 1. It never seemed to burn a drop before, so no surprise there. What was odd was the oil was very black and stinky. Not a fuel smell, more like a differential fluid smell. I assume the oil is just cleaning any old dirt, but the smell was so bad. Should I plan on changing this ASAP (i.e., warm weather) or just stick to the 1 year plan?
 
It wouldn't hurt to run it that far but to make things simpler for your mom just drop it at 4k miles. This will also get the fuel dillution and moisture out of the system. As far as the differential smell it's possible you pulled the front differential dipstick instead of the oil dipstick. I'm not insulting your intelligence but I am bringing up a possibility. In all of my experiences I've never smelled oil and it smell like differential fluid.
 
I am running 10k on M1 in our Subie. They are very easy on oil and at least the non turbos allowed 7500 mile OCI on Dino. As long as the engine is in good working condition, checked regularly, etc the oil should be fine. But if it is a little dirty you may want to keep the first change a little shorter.
 
Leave it for a year, it will be fine. The oil is doing its job cleaning - M1 is famous for this. Just keep an eye on the level, IMO it will drop.
 
Originally Posted By: Droopy
As far as the differential smell it's possible you pulled the front differential dipstick instead of the oil dipstick. I'm not insulting your intelligence but I am bringing up a possibility. In all of my experiences I've never smelled oil and it smell like differential fluid.


No offense taken, but on this model the front diff dipstick is on the opposite side from oil and way down in the engine bay, almost impossible for me to reach.

Coolant level checks out fine, but I know it's getting close to the time to be worried about HG issues. Never lost a drop of that either, but planning on doing a drain/fill or rad flush when the warm weather returns. Already got the official Subaru coolant and magic additive.
 
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Thanks for the ideas. I'll just take it to 4K and change when the weather is warmer. Of course, I'll be keeping a close eye on oil and coolant levels as well as appearance and smell.

I was also thinking of going to a Fram Ultra. Good idea or overkill? Mom drives like a grandmother. She's 76, after all.
 
Check the air box for signs of a nest/vermin. Could be running rich due to that. Or could be dirty O2 sensors.

Rotten egg smell (differential smell) could be signs of the catalytic converter going south. Any codes?

Do u check the PCV? or is it original?

How long since the fuel filter was changed?

Original spark plugs? if not are they the correct heat range?

Curious if its still on its original timing belt with such low mileage?
 
It looks like you are trying to do the best you can for your mothers car. The Fram Ultra is probably overkill..plus i dont think it has the correct 23PSI bypass pressure that subaru recommends. The napa 7712 or wix 57712 are better designed for your engines oil pump.. but i havent heard of any issues with using the incorrect filter either.

Not to be a buzzkill but that magical subaru coolant additive does not work. The head gaskets fail when they fail. Most just leak oil for years and years, while some fail and cause overheating. You dont really haven any control over this..its just luck of the draw.

Since you are planning on changing the coolant im guessing that your timing belt wasnt changed..thats usually when the coolant is changed when the timingbelt/waterpump is done.. so i would save that coolant for the next or first timing belt/waterpump job.
 
No codes, original timing belt, I think plugs are original. Mom has had the 15K, 30K, 45K and 60K services done at the dealer, but I don't know what all they did. She misplaced or threw out at least a couple of the work receipts. Didn't check the PCV, not sure where it is. I'll look it up on Google, YouTube, whatever. I did get a new air filter, the old one has a big dirty spot. I don't think it's oily, just where the airstream hits the filter. Planning on fuel filter, plugs when warm. And a brake flush.

I do take Mom to Wally's occasionally, drive the car at least once a month. Haven't noticed any drivability issues or changes, no loss of power or anything.
 
The dealer likely keeps track of the maintenance that was done. I have been dealing with transmission issues with my Montero and was surprised to find out they had maintenance records for my vehicle from the previous owner that happened to use them. I would ask them for the records of what they did.
 
Most dealerships use a system which uses your vin so records don't get crossed. At Valvoline we used an antiquated system that used an mvp number. We changed to a new system which used the vin for records. The fuel filter should have a 30k mile recommendation and those hoses are a PITA to get off. I would suggest you invest in some radiator hose picks which help remove the rubber hoses but don't damage them. Here's a link to what I'm speaking of:

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-4521....CFUg6gQodPBoAuw
 
Don't use Fram, it does not have the correct bypass setting. Keep with Wix or Napa filters with higher bypass rating.

And these years develop the external HG issue. Will not affect the oil with the Phase II engine. (My older Subaru with the phase I will fail internally). IF it develops the HG issue, it will run as long as it is topped off with coolant. Then again, some HG fail at 90K others 300K. The coolant "additive" aka stop leak will work in a Phase Two if it develops the small external leak but not major (so for Phase 2 engines), it will not work for my Phase I. That is why you get different claims about the effectiveness.

I would change it. Then again, black oil is not terrible. I rather have the oil black because it is better in the oil than engine. However, if the engine has not seen new plugs, I would do that, new ignition wires, clean out the throttle body, and new air filter. You would be surprised how the "tune up" can improve Subaru economy.
 
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
Fram ultra works great in the Subies. Don't worry about the bypass pressure internet invented problem.


Subies move a lot of oil. If you want oil bypassing the filter, why bother with a Fram Ultra? Might as well get the Tearolators are any old no-name brand. If you REALLY want to keep to FRAM, there is a Orange Can available. If you go with the FRAM Ultra, you are really getting something that is spec-ed more for a Honda that happens to fit a Subie. If the bypass what not that much of an issue, why would Subaru go through such trouble with their own filter when any 8-12psi filter would "work".
 
If the FRAM Ultra media has a higher flow rate than the Subie filter then there is less potential for a pressure differential and subsequently less potential for a bypass event.

The Ford Modular oil pumps are also very high volume, yet Ford does not have a strange proprietary higher bypass pressure
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Originally Posted By: Nate1979
Fram ultra works great in the Subies. Don't worry about the bypass pressure internet invented problem.


....Or maybe it was a Subaru Engineering department "invented problem".
 
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