I have a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8, aluminum heads. Any recommendations for the type of anti seize, copper or nickle/silver colored and proper torque value for this engine using the anti seize.
Thanks,
Whimsey
Thanks,
Whimsey
Stuck Spark Plugs. Any tips??
- Thread starter 99Saturn
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some people had great success using an impact wrench (Ford modular) for removing the stuck spark plug. I probably won't have the guts to do it myself. I *think* couple of karate chops to the wrench from your bare hand might just do the trick without leading to more problems.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
some people had great success using an impact wrench (Ford modular) for removing the stuck spark plug. I probably won't have the guts to do it myself. I *think* couple of karate chops to the wrench from your bare hand might just do the trick without leading to more problems.
Up until sometime during the 2004 MY the Modular engines only had 3 to 4 threads in the aluminum head. You have to be real careful. Though they usually launched more plugs than the plugs being stuck in the head.
Whimsey
some people had great success using an impact wrench (Ford modular) for removing the stuck spark plug. I probably won't have the guts to do it myself. I *think* couple of karate chops to the wrench from your bare hand might just do the trick without leading to more problems.
Up until sometime during the 2004 MY the Modular engines only had 3 to 4 threads in the aluminum head. You have to be real careful. Though they usually launched more plugs than the plugs being stuck in the head.
Whimsey
Originally Posted By: danthaman1980
Originally Posted By: 99Saturn
'99 Chevy Cavalier with 170,000 miles - 2.2L OHV.
Went to change the plugs, and I'm having trouble with 3 of the 4 plugs.
Tried slight tightening and then loosening, multiple applications of PB Blaster over ~8 hours without luck.
Other suggestions?
3 ft. breaker bar and a 3 lb. sledgehammer?!?!
J/K! Don't break a plug off in the head!
Too much work! Go strait for the impact wrench
Originally Posted By: 99Saturn
'99 Chevy Cavalier with 170,000 miles - 2.2L OHV.
Went to change the plugs, and I'm having trouble with 3 of the 4 plugs.
Tried slight tightening and then loosening, multiple applications of PB Blaster over ~8 hours without luck.
Other suggestions?
3 ft. breaker bar and a 3 lb. sledgehammer?!?!
J/K! Don't break a plug off in the head!
Too much work! Go strait for the impact wrench
Originally Posted By: 99Saturn
How hot should I let it get (yes I realize that's subjective, but I'm assuming not a 1 hour highway run)? My concern was changing hot and damaging the threads.
I'm currently (at least by my feel) not getting any movement tightening and loosing.
I can't comment on how long they've been in. They at least don't appear to be original, since they are Bosch plugs and Carquest wires.
I don't know your engine but if it is a dohc with tubes in the valve cover I will pour a couple of ounces of Kroil or PB Blaster as second best and yes I will drive the car in the highway for an hour like you said (actually less more like 15~20 minutes) then stop and try to loose the plugs a bit when fully hot just crack them loose re-tight them drive home crack them loose again and leave them overnight to cool and try to get them out again or begin the loose-tight-loose-tight until they finally come loose; after that "cleaning" of the threads and unless you have the right anti seize and "know" how much to apply I'll stay away from them, take a look at this http://www.wellsve.com/video_odd_misfire_problems.html.
Good luck and be patience it will be more time consuming and expensive if you have to take the head out unless you want to use those thread repair bushings that have worked so well for me in the past.
Jorge
How hot should I let it get (yes I realize that's subjective, but I'm assuming not a 1 hour highway run)? My concern was changing hot and damaging the threads.
I'm currently (at least by my feel) not getting any movement tightening and loosing.
I can't comment on how long they've been in. They at least don't appear to be original, since they are Bosch plugs and Carquest wires.
I don't know your engine but if it is a dohc with tubes in the valve cover I will pour a couple of ounces of Kroil or PB Blaster as second best and yes I will drive the car in the highway for an hour like you said (actually less more like 15~20 minutes) then stop and try to loose the plugs a bit when fully hot just crack them loose re-tight them drive home crack them loose again and leave them overnight to cool and try to get them out again or begin the loose-tight-loose-tight until they finally come loose; after that "cleaning" of the threads and unless you have the right anti seize and "know" how much to apply I'll stay away from them, take a look at this http://www.wellsve.com/video_odd_misfire_problems.html.
Good luck and be patience it will be more time consuming and expensive if you have to take the head out unless you want to use those thread repair bushings that have worked so well for me in the past.
Jorge
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
I have a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8, aluminum heads. Any recommendations for the type of anti seize, copper or nickle/silver colored and proper torque value for this engine using the anti seize.
Thanks,
Whimsey
Use copper or Champion's stuff, iirc it is a non metallic base. Torque to 8Nm or 96in-lb.
That is really just snug not more. Spec is 11Nm, -25% for the never seize.
Quote:
Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, and fuel filter fittings
- See more at:
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/produ...h.6Wp7MLBh.dpuf
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/antiseize.php
Edit: Do not apply liberally as someone suggested but sparingly. You can use a Qtip to apply it to the threads.
I have a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8, aluminum heads. Any recommendations for the type of anti seize, copper or nickle/silver colored and proper torque value for this engine using the anti seize.
Thanks,
Whimsey
Use copper or Champion's stuff, iirc it is a non metallic base. Torque to 8Nm or 96in-lb.
That is really just snug not more. Spec is 11Nm, -25% for the never seize.
Quote:
Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, and fuel filter fittings
- See more at:
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/produ...h.6Wp7MLBh.dpuf
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/antiseize.php
Edit: Do not apply liberally as someone suggested but sparingly. You can use a Qtip to apply it to the threads.
Last edited:
I had a neighbor who was a technical salesman for a company making anti seize compounds, Dow, I think. He told me to use anti seize that does not contain either of the metals that are being attached. In other words, don't use aluminum based anti seize on aluminum heads or copper based anti seize on brass fittings. His recommendation has worked for me for more than 40 years.
Do you have a cordless 3/8" impact? Use that to get them out if you have a straight shot at the plugs and don't need a universal joint.
If you wan't know what's real PITA, check modern diesels. Injectors and glowplugs are stuck on the head, and intake manifold is full of egr gunk.
Just imagine the horror trying remove these pen type glow's after 150 000 miles:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/Mzc1WDUwMA==/z/z-QAAOxyQyJRjSZp/$T2eC16RHJHoE9n3Ke-J!BRjSZoV0qQ~~60_1.JPG
And when you fail and it snaps...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koghDoROFko
Just imagine the horror trying remove these pen type glow's after 150 000 miles:
http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/Mzc1WDUwMA==/z/z-QAAOxyQyJRjSZp/$T2eC16RHJHoE9n3Ke-J!BRjSZoV0qQ~~60_1.JPG
And when you fail and it snaps...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=koghDoROFko
I had a Grand Prix spark plug pull the threads once. There was carbon in the last two threads where they protruded into the combustion chamber.
Decarb the combustion chambers with MMO or water or whatever.
Decarb the combustion chambers with MMO or water or whatever.
Hope you have the plugs out by now but:
I often had stuck plugs in my mechanic days....luckily every one came out after allowing the engine to heat up to normal operating temperature. In fact they all came out with a normal amount of force, much less than my attempts with the cold engines.
I often had stuck plugs in my mechanic days....luckily every one came out after allowing the engine to heat up to normal operating temperature. In fact they all came out with a normal amount of force, much less than my attempts with the cold engines.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
I have a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8, aluminum heads. Any recommendations for the type of anti seize, copper or nickle/silver colored and proper torque value for this engine using the anti seize.
Thanks,
Whimsey
Use copper or Champion's stuff, iirc it is a non metallic base. Torque to 8Nm or 96in-lb.
That is really just snug not more. Spec is 11Nm, -25% for the never seize.
Quote:
Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, and fuel filter fittings
- See more at:
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/produ...h.6Wp7MLBh.dpuf
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/antiseize.php
Edit: Do not apply liberally as someone suggested but sparingly. You can use a Qtip to apply it to the threads.
Thanks!
Whimsey
Originally Posted By: Whimsey
I have a 2002 F-150 with the 4.6 V8, aluminum heads. Any recommendations for the type of anti seize, copper or nickle/silver colored and proper torque value for this engine using the anti seize.
Thanks,
Whimsey
Use copper or Champion's stuff, iirc it is a non metallic base. Torque to 8Nm or 96in-lb.
That is really just snug not more. Spec is 11Nm, -25% for the never seize.
Quote:
Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, and fuel filter fittings
- See more at:
http://www.permatex.com/products-2/produ...h.6Wp7MLBh.dpuf
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/antiseize.php
Edit: Do not apply liberally as someone suggested but sparingly. You can use a Qtip to apply it to the threads.
Thanks!
Whimsey
Thanks all - life and work have been getting in the way and as this is not my car but someone I know I have not gotten back to it yet. Appreciate all the advice.
Going to try to get back to it over the weekend and try it hot/warm. I'm fairly certain it's an aluminum head in this engine which was my original concern towards hot but it sounds like that is the next appropriate step to try.
Going to try to get back to it over the weekend and try it hot/warm. I'm fairly certain it's an aluminum head in this engine which was my original concern towards hot but it sounds like that is the next appropriate step to try.
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Hope you have the plugs out by now but:
I often had stuck plugs in my mechanic days....luckily every one came out after allowing the engine to heat up to normal operating temperature. In fact they all came out with a normal amount of force, much less than my attempts with the cold engines.
+1 The expansion and contraction of the engine and age can help it fuse up. When the engine warms up it will expand which will help. I say soak it with some Kroil overnight and the next morning warm up the engine. Should come right out
Hope you have the plugs out by now but:
I often had stuck plugs in my mechanic days....luckily every one came out after allowing the engine to heat up to normal operating temperature. In fact they all came out with a normal amount of force, much less than my attempts with the cold engines.
+1 The expansion and contraction of the engine and age can help it fuse up. When the engine warms up it will expand which will help. I say soak it with some Kroil overnight and the next morning warm up the engine. Should come right out
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