Stuck brake caliper slide pin and suspension dmg

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Went to change my rotors and pads and already knew I had a stripped bolt on the caliper slide pin bolt, the passenger side front caliper bottom bolt. I came prepared with a set of craftsman easy out sockets and new slide pins for both sides, but no matter how much I tried I couldn't get the socket to bite well enough without slipping off. I could get it to bite some but when I applied torque it would eventually slip off. I even rounded it off more so I was able to get the smaller size easy out on it but still no dice. What is the next best step when an easy out won't work? Also while I had the car jacked up I noticed some possible worn suspension parts.
 
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this is the slide bolt not the bracket bolt? doubt it would be locktighted.. unless they were stupid. if you think they locktighted it you can try some light heat CAREFULLY from a propane torch... last resort type of stuff where you are probably going to end up replacing the caliper. impact wrench with hammered on socket, last resort weld a nut to it but most likely have to replace the caliper then. you are turning it the correct direction? its on the backside of the caliper.
 
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your LCA bushing is toast. It will cause clunking sound during rough rides, your steering may shift during emergency situations (hard braking, etc.) and in general, you are in dire situation. If replacing the bushing is too challenging for you, consider getting a full lower control arm assembly (comes with bushings) and then replace the defective ones. Q.
 
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Does your attempts include doses of PB blaster or the like? Heat will likely ruin the rubber on those pins and the custom paint job. Good observation on likely needing some other suspension repairs.
 
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Put some dry ice on it, tap lightly with dead blow hammer. Metal gets weird when super cold, light blows. Wear gloves, beware frostbite. Can you cut a groove in the bolt and turn it with a screwdriver?
 
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I had that problem once...and I knew right away there was no getting it off. Had to buy a new caliper. I think a torn rubber boot was the reason it rusted on.
 
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Cut off the bolt head with a hacksaw. The threaded part will back out of the pin once the caliper is off using a small pick or reverse drill bit
 

901Memphis

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Well i hammered on the easy out and it still wouldn't stay on there when i turned it. Yes i am pretty sure i am turning it the right way. I even turned the wheel all the way to the right to get a better angle and it still didn't help. Not sure if i am using the correct terminology but i think its the lower slide pin of the 2 bolts that holds the caliper onto the bracket AFAIK. I can get the top one out but it doesn't seem to help. If i take the top bolt out the caliper pivots off the bracket, so the lower bolt is the only thing holding it to the bracket. Not really worried about the paint, the previous owner did that. I just wanted to get those [censored] cheap autozone basic pads off even though they are at about half, they shed black dust like crazy. Do you guys think if i have my transmission rebuild, the shop would charge extra to throw on the pads/rotors while they were in there? I mean if i am paying like $2500 for a new transmission surely they can remove the 1 stuck bolt since it has to come out of the way to remove the transmission anyways?
 
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If it's just the slide pins and not the caliper mounting bolts, replace the caliper. PS. What the heck does 'dmg' stand for?
 

901Memphis

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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
If it's just the slide pins and not the caliper mounting bolts, replace the caliper. PS. What the heck does 'dmg' stand for?
To my knowledge there is no way to remove the caliper without removing that bolt. The reason i short handed "DMG" = Damage, is because into the character limit for a title.
 
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
To my knowledge there is no way to remove the caliper without removing that bolt.
All the slide pins do is bolt the pad bracket to the caliper; they don't hold the caliper to the steering knuckle. Unbolt the two mounting bolts and the whole caliper comes off with the bracket still attached to it. When you remove one of those slide pins, it's so you can swing the bracket up and change the pads without removing the caliper.
 
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^ What he said. You should be able to get a caliper bracket for around $12. Cut the head off that stubborn pin with an angle grinder and "1mm" cutoff wheel. If you get your transmission done they are likely to remove the whole knuckle/ bearing/ brakes as one big blob, and/or stash them off to the side to gain access. But that would be on the driver's side, where the tranny is, they'd probably leave the pass alone unless they have to drop the subframe.
 
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Originally Posted By: eljefino
^ What he said. You should be able to get a caliper bracket for around $12. Cut the head off that stubborn pin with an angle grinder and "1mm" cutoff wheel. If you get your transmission done they are likely to remove the whole knuckle/ bearing/ brakes as one big blob, and/or stash them off to the side to gain access. But that would be on the driver's side, where the tranny is, they'd probably leave the pass alone unless they have to drop the subframe.
The subframe comes out. When I do them, I separate the ball joint, pull the axle and leave everything else hanging. The brakes are never touched.
 
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Like Merkava said, remove the caliper and its bracket as a unit and disconnect the flexible brake hose. Now you can work on it on the bench. Get the appropriate sized left-handed drill bit and go to town on the caliper slide. Either it will break loose while you're drilling it or you will eventually go all the way through and the two pieces will fall apart. No need to replace caliper.
 

901Memphis

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I do not have much of a tool box. I also do not have access to work bench. I have to go over to friends house when i work on my brakes and usualy only have a few hours at a time. I am pretty busy most of the week and my one day off usually doesn't leave time to work on the car. If i could get the bracket off i might just replace both calipers for good measure. Since i have meat left on the pads, it doesn't look like i will be touching it again til spring.
 
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That's an understandable response when you don't have all the necessary resources to dig into it that far. Hopefully they won't stiff you on the core charge if they see the caliper bolt is fused to the bracket. Don't mention that to the parts store clerk.
 
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