If I am not mistaken, if you need the struts on a high mileage old car, the chances are you definitely need the top mount and the rest of the assorted hardware even if your coil springs are not shot. Buying the rest of the stuff independently will soon approach the price of the quick strut.
Strut suggestions for a cheap car
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Originally Posted By: slowdime
I guess what I'm getting at with this thread is that I do in fact have plenty of money saved up to buy quality shocks, but seeing as I bought the vehicle with the intention of it being a cheap, low maintenance school/work commuter, is it even worth it putting more expensive suspension components on it?
If this is really a 2 or 3 year car then no don't spend big money on it. The econo matics will use the same spring and mount as the quick strut but will an entry level shock.
Realistically its a 30-40K unit. If you wanted to spend a little more go with the KYB, Gabriel or Monroe "quick Strut" which are about a 60-75K units (depending on road conditions).
Only the OE Delco and higher end aftermarket units like Sachs, Bilstein, KYB AGX, Tokico, etc will provide the same mileage life as the originals or better. No point in going there, they are big money.
IMHO you are correct in going with complete units, new struts and 12 year old mounts, seats and springs is a fools errand.
Here is what can happen to 10 year old springs. I took these off a car a couple of months ago.
I guess what I'm getting at with this thread is that I do in fact have plenty of money saved up to buy quality shocks, but seeing as I bought the vehicle with the intention of it being a cheap, low maintenance school/work commuter, is it even worth it putting more expensive suspension components on it?
If this is really a 2 or 3 year car then no don't spend big money on it. The econo matics will use the same spring and mount as the quick strut but will an entry level shock.
Realistically its a 30-40K unit. If you wanted to spend a little more go with the KYB, Gabriel or Monroe "quick Strut" which are about a 60-75K units (depending on road conditions).
Only the OE Delco and higher end aftermarket units like Sachs, Bilstein, KYB AGX, Tokico, etc will provide the same mileage life as the originals or better. No point in going there, they are big money.
IMHO you are correct in going with complete units, new struts and 12 year old mounts, seats and springs is a fools errand.
Here is what can happen to 10 year old springs. I took these off a car a couple of months ago.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: suspiciousmind
Look into SENSEN. They're dirt cheap and OEM quality. They may not make 'em for your application though.
No offense but they are far from OEM quality, they are cheap Chinese parts using poor spring steel.
I second SENSEN. I am currently running them on my Max and am very happy with them.
Trav, have you personally inspected and installed these parts, or are you simply an OMG they're Chinese" sheep?
Keep in mind, manufacturers such as Monroe and Gabriel also have Chinese production.
Originally Posted By: suspiciousmind
Look into SENSEN. They're dirt cheap and OEM quality. They may not make 'em for your application though.
No offense but they are far from OEM quality, they are cheap Chinese parts using poor spring steel.
I second SENSEN. I am currently running them on my Max and am very happy with them.
Trav, have you personally inspected and installed these parts, or are you simply an OMG they're Chinese" sheep?
Keep in mind, manufacturers such as Monroe and Gabriel also have Chinese production.
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Originally Posted By: Trav
Here is what can happen to 10 year old springs. I took these off a car a couple of months ago.
Oregon doesn't salt roads, and my 18YO springs looked like new still.
Here is what can happen to 10 year old springs. I took these off a car a couple of months ago.
Oregon doesn't salt roads, and my 18YO springs looked like new still.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Get the eco matics from amazon. Free shipping. Not the best but not junk they will do the job you need.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/186-0007211-2793569?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=02%20Chevy%20Chevrolet%20Cavalier%20struts
I'm with Trav on this one.
Get the eco matics from amazon. Free shipping. Not the best but not junk they will do the job you need.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/186-0007211-2793569?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=02%20Chevy%20Chevrolet%20Cavalier%20struts
I'm with Trav on this one.
Respectfully disagree with everything here.
if all goes to plan, it is a short term deal ... if it don't, you may wish you had not cheap'd out when you had the chance.
i just replaced the original struts on our 2002 outback (125k miles) and all the original hardware was just fine. the car started life in Iowa where salt is a way of life, and is becoming that way here. everything was reused, except the struts (of course). To be fair, i hired the labor out because i didn't have the time to do it myself (see earlier post about doing it now while you have time.)
Quality struts don't have to cost a lot of money, if you shop around. I bought KYB's GR2's (OE equivalent)and paid about $70 each for the front and about $55 each for the back with shipping included. now these weren't the loaded struts, but if the springs and bearing plates are fine, then there is no need to replace, aside from expediency.
with an impact wrench, changing springs to the new strut takes less than 5 minutes. Longer if you have to do it by hand, and it's almost impossible to get the top nut off without an impact (hence the cheapie electric).
IME, broken springs are vehicle specific. escorts break springs, thunderbirds break springs, but our 97 cavalier is riding on the original struts and springs with almost 220k on the clock (owned since new). if they aren't broken, or sagging, there is no real need to replace.
save the money on the loaded struts, upgrade to a quality strut, and do the labor yourself. If you can't do it in front of your appt (understandable), borrow a friend's garage for a day, or do like i did and drive 300miles home for the weekend and get your dad to help (or uncle or whatever).
I had to pay over $400 for labor on the subaru ... get in there and get 'er done right. i do think you get a much better unit if you don't get them loaded.
JMHO, no offence to anyone who differs in opinion.
Originally Posted By: Trav
If this is really a 2 or 3 year car then no don't spend big money on it. The econo matics will use the same spring and mount as the quick strut but will an entry level shock.
Realistically its a 30-40K unit. If you wanted to spend a little more go with the KYB, Gabriel or Monroe "quick Strut" which are about a 60-75K units (depending on road conditions).
Only the OE Delco and higher end aftermarket units like Sachs, Bilstein, KYB AGX, Tokico, etc will provide the same mileage life as the originals or better. No point in going there, they are big money.
IMHO you are correct in going with complete units, new struts and 12 year old mounts, seats and springs is a fools errand.
if all goes to plan, it is a short term deal ... if it don't, you may wish you had not cheap'd out when you had the chance.
i just replaced the original struts on our 2002 outback (125k miles) and all the original hardware was just fine. the car started life in Iowa where salt is a way of life, and is becoming that way here. everything was reused, except the struts (of course). To be fair, i hired the labor out because i didn't have the time to do it myself (see earlier post about doing it now while you have time.)
Quality struts don't have to cost a lot of money, if you shop around. I bought KYB's GR2's (OE equivalent)and paid about $70 each for the front and about $55 each for the back with shipping included. now these weren't the loaded struts, but if the springs and bearing plates are fine, then there is no need to replace, aside from expediency.
with an impact wrench, changing springs to the new strut takes less than 5 minutes. Longer if you have to do it by hand, and it's almost impossible to get the top nut off without an impact (hence the cheapie electric).
IME, broken springs are vehicle specific. escorts break springs, thunderbirds break springs, but our 97 cavalier is riding on the original struts and springs with almost 220k on the clock (owned since new). if they aren't broken, or sagging, there is no real need to replace.
save the money on the loaded struts, upgrade to a quality strut, and do the labor yourself. If you can't do it in front of your appt (understandable), borrow a friend's garage for a day, or do like i did and drive 300miles home for the weekend and get your dad to help (or uncle or whatever).
I had to pay over $400 for labor on the subaru ... get in there and get 'er done right. i do think you get a much better unit if you don't get them loaded.
JMHO, no offence to anyone who differs in opinion.
Originally Posted By: Trav
If this is really a 2 or 3 year car then no don't spend big money on it. The econo matics will use the same spring and mount as the quick strut but will an entry level shock.
Realistically its a 30-40K unit. If you wanted to spend a little more go with the KYB, Gabriel or Monroe "quick Strut" which are about a 60-75K units (depending on road conditions).
Only the OE Delco and higher end aftermarket units like Sachs, Bilstein, KYB AGX, Tokico, etc will provide the same mileage life as the originals or better. No point in going there, they are big money.
IMHO you are correct in going with complete units, new struts and 12 year old mounts, seats and springs is a fools errand.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
If you're only driving it until you're done with college, why replace them at all? Unless they are so bad that it's a safety hazard, I'd simply live with them as they are.
problem is, most avg joes or BITOGers won't know the difference (how worn their shocks/struts are) until it's too late (i.e. skidded during emergency braking, car out of control during emergency manoevring, etc.).
My take has always been as follows:
I don't mind having a lousy engine or transmission, but when it comes to keeping myself and my family safe on the road, I'd always make sure that the following 3 parts are working in top notch condition:
(1) tires.
(2) suspension (shocks/struts)
(3) brakes
If either 1 or more of these aren't functioning as they should, you can pretty much bet your life on it (and fail).
Q.
If you're only driving it until you're done with college, why replace them at all? Unless they are so bad that it's a safety hazard, I'd simply live with them as they are.
problem is, most avg joes or BITOGers won't know the difference (how worn their shocks/struts are) until it's too late (i.e. skidded during emergency braking, car out of control during emergency manoevring, etc.).
My take has always been as follows:
I don't mind having a lousy engine or transmission, but when it comes to keeping myself and my family safe on the road, I'd always make sure that the following 3 parts are working in top notch condition:
(1) tires.
(2) suspension (shocks/struts)
(3) brakes
If either 1 or more of these aren't functioning as they should, you can pretty much bet your life on it (and fail).
Q.
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If you're that hard up for cash, try search craigslist or posting a wanted ad in a forum meant for your car, someone might have an acceptable pair sitting around if they upgraded to nicer struts. Or you could try your luck at a junkyard. Sometimes cars get trashed not too long after someone puts in new parts although it might be tricky trying to figure out how old the struts look on a car.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
If you're that hard up for cash, try search craigslist or posting a wanted ad in a forum meant for your car, someone might have an acceptable pair sitting around if they upgraded to nicer struts. Or you could try your luck at a junkyard. Sometimes cars get trashed not too long after someone puts in new parts although it might be tricky trying to figure out how old the struts look on a car.
I'm not hard up for cash though. I could buy top of the line struts if I wanted to. But like I said, I'm only planning on having this car a couple years tops, so if decent alternatives to the top dollar parts exist I'd prefer those. I think I'm going to go with the Monroe's like Trav and a few others suggested, it's an actual brand I've heard of (Unity and FCS came up when I was searching but I'd never heard of them)
If you're that hard up for cash, try search craigslist or posting a wanted ad in a forum meant for your car, someone might have an acceptable pair sitting around if they upgraded to nicer struts. Or you could try your luck at a junkyard. Sometimes cars get trashed not too long after someone puts in new parts although it might be tricky trying to figure out how old the struts look on a car.
I'm not hard up for cash though. I could buy top of the line struts if I wanted to. But like I said, I'm only planning on having this car a couple years tops, so if decent alternatives to the top dollar parts exist I'd prefer those. I think I'm going to go with the Monroe's like Trav and a few others suggested, it's an actual brand I've heard of (Unity and FCS came up when I was searching but I'd never heard of them)
I have no problem if someone disagrees with me, i just give my opinion like everyone else.
Please read this before going any further, i have seen this on Subaru's myself. The broken spring took out the drivers side front tire.
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-p...o-i-do-now.html
http://www.dealerrater.com/recalls/Subaru/Outback/
Subaru and many others has a long history of coil spring failures Especially the older ones which is why i made the statement if they are 10-12 years old i wouldn't reuse them regardless of make or model.
When they fail it is without warning.
Old springs also sag and this will upset the shocks jounce and rebound balance, they can also alter CV joint angles if severe enough and cause drive train rumble especially when first starting to move (commonly mistaken for a brake grab issue).
Strut mounts and bearing are subject to very harsh conditions and may or may not show signs of material fatigue when it is present in the rubber at this age.
Bearing are something i always change when they are old or high miles, no point in redoing the job for a bearing or mount.
To the poster who asked if i ever used Sensen parts. I have when Rock first started carrying them.
I conditionally put them in for someone who bought them and brought them in. I was not impressed. All i will say is when i replaced them (one leaked), he paid for the labor again.
Please read this before going any further, i have seen this on Subaru's myself. The broken spring took out the drivers side front tire.
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-p...o-i-do-now.html
http://www.dealerrater.com/recalls/Subaru/Outback/
Subaru and many others has a long history of coil spring failures Especially the older ones which is why i made the statement if they are 10-12 years old i wouldn't reuse them regardless of make or model.
When they fail it is without warning.
Old springs also sag and this will upset the shocks jounce and rebound balance, they can also alter CV joint angles if severe enough and cause drive train rumble especially when first starting to move (commonly mistaken for a brake grab issue).
Strut mounts and bearing are subject to very harsh conditions and may or may not show signs of material fatigue when it is present in the rubber at this age.
Bearing are something i always change when they are old or high miles, no point in redoing the job for a bearing or mount.
To the poster who asked if i ever used Sensen parts. I have when Rock first started carrying them.
I conditionally put them in for someone who bought them and brought them in. I was not impressed. All i will say is when i replaced them (one leaked), he paid for the labor again.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
If I am not mistaken, if you need the struts on a high mileage old car, the chances are you definitely need the top mount and the rest of the assorted hardware even if your coil springs are not shot. Buying the rest of the stuff independently will soon approach the price of the quick strut.
Yes.
If I am not mistaken, if you need the struts on a high mileage old car, the chances are you definitely need the top mount and the rest of the assorted hardware even if your coil springs are not shot. Buying the rest of the stuff independently will soon approach the price of the quick strut.
Yes.
Originally Posted By: HangFire
That's just a strut, not a preloaded spring/strut assembly as requested. While the OP could rent a spring tool, it's a lot more work.
Righto, I missed that part of the original post.
When I did my struts I went to Autozone and got a loaner spring compressor tool. For those who are unfamiliar, basically I bought a used spring compressor from them for $55. When I was done a couple of days later I returned it and got the full $55 back. In my experience with replacing struts, compressing the spring is the easy part of the job.
That's just a strut, not a preloaded spring/strut assembly as requested. While the OP could rent a spring tool, it's a lot more work.
Righto, I missed that part of the original post.
When I did my struts I went to Autozone and got a loaner spring compressor tool. For those who are unfamiliar, basically I bought a used spring compressor from them for $55. When I was done a couple of days later I returned it and got the full $55 back. In my experience with replacing struts, compressing the spring is the easy part of the job.
Originally Posted By: Joel_MD
In my experience with replacing struts, compressing the spring is the easy part of the job.
Very surprising. I have done quite a few struts on my cars over the years and compressing the spring was always the hardest and [censored] scariest part of the job. I actually use two set of compressors to make sure I don't have an accident.
In my experience with replacing struts, compressing the spring is the easy part of the job.
Very surprising. I have done quite a few struts on my cars over the years and compressing the spring was always the hardest and [censored] scariest part of the job. I actually use two set of compressors to make sure I don't have an accident.
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Some are very light you could almost compress them by hand VW golf II rears is one i can think of.
Some springs are so strong its hair raising. I don't like doing some MB front springs, years ago i had one break the dam spring compressor, talk about live action. LOL
Some springs are so strong its hair raising. I don't like doing some MB front springs, years ago i had one break the dam spring compressor, talk about live action. LOL
Originally Posted By: tommygunn
Monroe, KYB, or Gabriel quick struts.
no-name Chinese imitations hardly ever make it past 10k. The name brands are good to at least 50k.
Yea I have done 14 struts in the last month or 2 and I really wanted to use the cheaper ones but I could not find anything good about them at all. As I said before I found some on closeout at eBay but I could not in good consequence install the no name Chinese ones on my customers and family members cars.
I do agree if the strut mount has bearings to replace it, or rebuild if it can be. I found some cheap ones at Amazon that worked well.
Monroe, KYB, or Gabriel quick struts.
no-name Chinese imitations hardly ever make it past 10k. The name brands are good to at least 50k.
Yea I have done 14 struts in the last month or 2 and I really wanted to use the cheaper ones but I could not find anything good about them at all. As I said before I found some on closeout at eBay but I could not in good consequence install the no name Chinese ones on my customers and family members cars.
I do agree if the strut mount has bearings to replace it, or rebuild if it can be. I found some cheap ones at Amazon that worked well.
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