Still a tad confused

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Oct 1, 2002
North TX
I've been skulking about this board for a while and have learned more in a week or two about oils, filters, and the like than in the previous 50+ years. I'm still a tad confused as to which synthetic multi-vis (weight not brand) would be ideal for my car & conditions.

The car:'03 Corolla 1.8l four banger 5 spd manual
Recommended oil: 5W-30 year round 4QT capacity W/filter
Area: central/south TX - rarely freezes, 100+F common, A/C almost always on.
Driving habits: as most, some city, some highway. Very few short drives. Revved above 5000 RPM often.

I've read enough to make an informed synthetic oil & filter brand choice but which of these would you use?
0W-30 0W-40 5W-30 10W-30

Thank you from a 1st time poster
Quite honestly, if it's a high quality product you could run 0w-30/5w-30/10w-30 and you would see little difference in performance. If all three used the same additive chemistry, you would expect the lowest oil consumption with the 10w-30, followed by the 5w-30 and then the 0w-30. You would probably expect the 10w-30 to also be the most shear stable, but again I'm picking nits here ....

I'd start out with a 10w-30 and only use a 0w-40 if you are having issues with high oil consumption or low oil pressure. I run 0w-30 year round in Alabama with no problems at all, so I would not waste too much time thinking about it ....
A bit more info: I am currently using a 10W-30 full synthetic and the results have been beyond expectations...mileage regularly exceeds the hefty EPA ratings of 30/40, much quieter when revved, zero consumption, more oomph in the "no- torque" below 3000 RPM range. Why change a good thing? Well...the oil does not meet Toyota's API SL designation. I don't care to void the warranty over a technicality. Which brand, you say? Let's just say it's the most expensive and contains the most moly. It's obvious I must change soon in spite of the positive results.
Thanks Too Slick
I lived in 'Bama 10 years and STILL miss it by the way. The summers are similar to those here but not the winters! Perhaps I'll do just as you suggested and stick with 10W-30 except with API SL approval this time. I'm still open to all opinions however.

Oil analysis results are considered Legal proof that the oil is performing normally. If you are satisfied with the stuff you're using now, I'd just test it a couple of times and save a copy of the results. In the unlikely event that you have an engine problem under warranty, you'll have proof that the problem isn't oil related ....As long as you aren't extended drain intervals I doubt the issue would even come up.

Thank you for the welcome. Yes, the engine has been changed for '03. Direct injection, no distributor or plug wires, coil on plug(S), timing chain not belt, etc. I'm pleased with it overall but bump the rev limiter too often. My last was a 626 V-6 that I had doctored and the rev limiter came into play @8000 RPM. I used to pass BMW' I can only pass Exxon & Chevron stations.
Thanks for that info, I didn't realize that. Extended change intervals are not in the forecast for now... 7500 miles would be the max as per 'Yota's 5000 or 7500 mile intervals. This engine was not one of the sludgemonsters so I'm not concerned about that at this point.
I deleted the previous post because your next one offered a bit different message than the first and I was typing as the 2nd came in

This is a interesting post. We have a mystery Redline oil
doing a fine job with out a analysis but possible warranty issues? If the engine is broke in with Zero oil use as you say why would you think it might have a oil related failure in the future before warranty coverage is gone? The high RPM?

How many miles does Toyota cover a 03 Corrola engine? How many miles is on the motor now? Does whatever wear the engine will recieve early on negate the long term life of the motor because of warranty and oil choice?

This all can be bounced off the wall but ultimatley you will need to make the decision. My opinion? Mobil 10/30 SS with sensible drains based on analysis if you want a API Synthetic and possible 0/40 as the engine accumulates more miles. Who knows,you might stick with it after warranty if analysis shows alls good?

Good luck with whatever you decide and yes,,welcome to the site
The warranty, I believe, is the standard 36 mo., 36K. It now has a skosh over 2000 miles on the clock. Frankly I doubt that I'll go the analysis route simply due to expense and hassle. Oil changes will not exceed 7500-8k after warranty. Thanks, M1 SS 10W-30SL was on my (alleged) mind and may work equally well as the RL in addition to less expense and being readily available.
How about if I send you a free kit to test your second run at the end of the interval of the oil you choose? Would you consider testing it then?

I would do that if you want, just to see the Corolla engine and how it easy or hard it is on a oil.
Thank you, how can I refuse? It must be 'cause I'm wearing my Hot Boats T shirt! How is the best way to give you address etc.? To make sure I'm clued in here...not this coming oil change (still 4000 miles away) but the following one, correct?
We are on the same page on miles/change

Hotboat eehhh? I have a good friend whose Father wrote the Jet Tech articles for for them many years back. He also was in on the Design of the Jacuzzi pump for boats

E-mail is best way for info on addresses

"On this trailer lays a disease in which cannot be cured"

They don't make those bumper stickers anylonger that I've seen. I sold my old one,the guy got my Truck for free in the deal!

[ October 08, 2002, 08:55 PM: Message edited by: dragboat ]

As a moderator can you access my e-mail addy from the profiles & e-mail me? Perhaps I'm too new to the forum to understand how to e-mail you and give you the required info. Sorry, I dont mean to be a pain in the transom.
Disregard previous (DUH) I figured it out. Thanks to all that contributed to my question, it is appreciated.
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