Started my own saltwater corrosion test...

[metroplex]

After applying Militec-1 and CLP to a pair of iron nairs, I left them out in the rain and went to check on them about 12 hours later. Both had surface rust... so I decided to do this uniformly and grab about 6 nails of the same type and 6 different lubricants.

In about 12 hours I'll post a report on my findings.

The contestants are whatever I could find in my house:

* RemOil (Remington Oil)
* Outer's Gun Rust Preventative Lube (smells like SAE 20 machine lube you get in a squirt bottle)
* Break Free CLP
* Firepower-10
* Supertech Dexron III/Mercon ATF
* Mobil 1 15W-50

The reason I did not test Militec-1 was because I ran out of nails. Since it failed the initial corrosion test I wanted to give my two "hopefuls" a shot at the title (ATF and Mobil 1).

I'll post the testing methodology and everything probably tommorrow.


FYI - I made a modified version of Ed's Red to use with my VEPR K: Household Ammonia, 70% Isopropyl Alcohol, Kerosene, and Dex3/Merc ATF. The alcohol is miscible with polar and non-polar components, so I use it to make it as uniform as possible (solution rather than a pure mixture).

I also found Brasso to work very well in cleaning up the gas piston. Nothing else would take the carbon off as readily, and its designed for chrome, stainless steel, and other high luster metals so I figured it would be safe. Heck, I use it on Lexan headlamp lenses and it doesn't make so much as a scratch.

BTW do NOT use ammonia on aluminum - it will react!!! My Outer's rifle cleaning rod is aluminum and it started reacting with the ammonia. I could not see any violent reactions, more like an oxidation of the aluminum.

 

[deepsquat]

too bad you didn'thave more nails..I would have liked to have seen how WD 40 worked ot...

I used to work in a machine shop , valve grinding ..after grinding the seats and washing it up we would spray right away with WD 40 ..if not it would literally rust before your eyes! { not kidding , once walked from the parts washroom, to my work bench ...while staring at the we seat I watched some very small rust particles begin to take hold!

 

[metroplex]

Salt-Water Corrosion Test

Goal:
To find a product that will prevent metallic surfaces from rusting when exposed to salt-water solutions or similar corrosive materials.

Testing Methodology:
Procure several test nails, label each nail according to the product used and insert nail into corrosive solution. Record starting date, time, ambient temperature, water temperature, and store in a safe location.

Materials Required:
25 cc of Iodized Salt
Small plastic disposable drinking cup
Detroit tap-water
Mixing utensil
Iron Nails
Protective Products
100 Grit sandpaper
Brake Cleaner

Procedure:

1). Properly clean nails of all corrosion and foreign materials by sanding surfaces until they are shiny. Spray with brake cleaner and thorougly clean nails of all foreign materials.;

2). Apply labels to the top of the nail, marking what product is being used on the nail.

3). Apply the products by first spraying/swabbing/dripping onto the nail surface. Wipe off excess, and repeat 3 times for each nail. End the application with wiping the excess off and store on a dry and clean platform until the other nails are finished.

4). When the application is completed, insert the nails into the receptable holding the corrosive substance.

5). Mark the starting date, time, ambient temperature, water temperature, and store in a safe location.

6). Soak for 3 hours, and remove nails. Air “dry” them outside for 8 hours and note the temperature and time.

7). Retrieve the nails after 8 hours and observe the samples.

Qualification:

The objective is to not have any noticeable surface rust/oxidation after being soaked in a corrosive substance for 12 hours.

Initial qualification occurs after step 7. Record the observations and start test number 2 with new nails or clean the samples and start over. Find the few samples that provided the least rust and re-test with new product applications.

Test 2:

Procedure

Same as above with the following exceptions:

1). Soak for 12 hours in corrosive bath.

2). Air dry for 12 hours. Observe amount of rust/deposits that form on the nail.
**********************************************

I will clean the nails today and re-start the test with some minor modifications and new contestsants.

The results from my initial test are in...

drum roll....

1). ATF and Outers had only minor deposits (i can count them, 2-3 tops) and no surface rust.

2). Remoil had no deposits but had slight surface oxidation

3). CLP had lots of deposits

4). M1 15W-50, lots of deposits and surface rust

5). FP-10, had LOTS of deposits and LOTS of surface rust.
*************************************************

The next test will have Mercon-V, Dexron-III/Mercon, Militec-1, and WD-40 (as requested).

I'll throw in that real SAE 20 oil to boot and see what happens.

Mercon-V is a semi-synthetic ATF so it'll probably provide the same protection as Dex-III/Merc except it should perform marginally better in a hot barrel.

[ July 29, 2004, 05:37 AM: Message edited by: metroplex ]

 

[rgl]

I ran a similar test on Mobil 1 a couple years ago and found out that it was not very good at preventing exterior rust. But then again that is not what it is made to do best. It would appear that in the civilian world it might be best to have 2 separate oils, one for the outside of the weapon and one to lube the moving & wearing parts. I don't worry about it too much here because there is not an oppressively humid atmosphere. If I lived in Louisiana I would be doing more testing. I don't think there is a magic rust preventer/lube that is absolute best at both jobs on every kind of weapon.

 

[metroplex]

Bad news: the 12 hour soak is too much for any of the protectants and i guess they all started washing off.

The deposits and rust on the nails were discernable from one another so I'll have to repeat the same 3 hour soak / 12 hour air dry test with these products to compare them with the first batch.

 

[metroplex]

After a 5 hour soak and air-drying (i just wait until its fully dry)... these are the results of the second batch:

1). DexronIII/Mercon has no surface oxidation - just 1-2 tiny deposits.

2). CLP, slightly more deposits than ATF but no surface oxidation.

3). Militec-1: more surface oxidation and deposits than CLP

4). Mercon-V and 3-in-1 Machine Oil, both were about the same with lots of deposits. I wonder why this would occur, seeing that Mercon-V is a synthetic???

5). WD-40, extensive surface rust and deposits.

 

[416Rigby]

Try Eezox, you'll be impressed with it's protective abilities.

 

[loudist]

I wonder how well lube control would fare?