Maxlife is pretty much the same price, and it doesn't carry an actual Mercon LV license, they're both full synthetic low viscosity transmission fluids, they're pretty close, I'd probably use the licensed over multi-vehicle fluid since it's the same price.
Starfire brand motor oil?
- Thread starter Bitter
- Start date
Makes sense. I'll save the Maxlife to do a suck n fill on my CD4E trans soon and grab something else for her car, thanks.
D
Deleted member 89374
In every T-GDI vehicle that we had, I ran Mobil 1 EP 5W-30, and it did very well. We had a 2013 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T (fuel diluter) and a 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T, a fuel diluter. It doesn't matter if she commutes or short trips. Every time that engine has to do, be in stoichiometric rich burn mode, aka put your foot down to get more power, more fuel gets dumped into the oil. That's because, in GDI engines, fuel atomization is very poor. This oil will give the motor additional life and a safety net. Castrol EDGE EP 5W-30 is also a perfect choice, and it can even be run in light-duty types of diesel and fuel diluting Ford motors. The Mobil 1 EP has a $15 mail-in rebate per jug that you can fill out and collect online. You have a limit of two jugs/$30 per household. After rebate, you're looking at $20 for 10 quarts of high-quality motor oil. It cost Hyundai several billion dollars to learn that in some motors, they should use 5W-30 instead of 0/5W-20 because fuel dilution is so bad after 7500 miles that rod bearings seize and the connecting rods exit through the side of the block. The Theta II 2.4 in my 2018 Santa Fe Sport came with a 5W-20 oil filler cap. There is a TSB from Hyundai who clearly says not to use 5W-20, ever, only 5W-30. Even sites like Mobil1.com and Castrol.com, even Pennzoil.com recommend 5W-30 for my vehicle. This motor is a non-Turbo GDI and dilutes fuel like crazy. I don't go more than 5K miles on an OCI, and when I drain it, I can smell the nasty fuel mixed in there. One time I went 6K miles on a dealer synthetic blend, and the smell from draining the oil stayed with me for a few days. I couldn't shake it. It's not worth taking chances for a 0.05% fuel economy that she might never even get. I run 0W-20 in our Sonata, but one has an MPI/GDI dual injection naturally aspirated engine. The GDI doesn't kick in unless I'm in lean-burn mode cruising on the highway. Because of that, it's a very peppy car. A 2.5L MPI motor coupled to an 8-speed automatic can be very snappy
We see a lot of late model HyunKia with oil consumption problems but that's a whole different ball of additive there. I'll look for those bulletins at work and apply them going forward, we have a regular customer with a 17 Sonata 2.0 non turbo who drives Uber and is closing in on 200,000 miles of our oil changes with regular oil every 3,000 miles on the dot. She doesn't use any oil between changes and it never smells funky or comes out looking bad. We see her about every 2-3 weeks for an oil change and 'the light light or the tire light, i dunno one of them lights is on again'. Granny gets them miles!In every T-GDI vehicle that we had, I ran Mobil 1 EP 5W-30, and it did very well. We had a 2013 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T (fuel diluter) and a 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport 2.0T, a fuel diluter. It doesn't matter if she commutes or short trips. Every time that engine has to do, be in stoichiometric rich burn mode, aka put your foot down to get more power, more fuel gets dumped into the oil. That's because, in GDI engines, fuel atomization is very poor. This oil will give the motor additional life and a safety net. Castrol EDGE EP 5W-30 is also a perfect choice, and it can even be run in light-duty types of diesel and fuel diluting Ford motors. The Mobil 1 EP has a $15 mail-in rebate per jug that you can fill out and collect online. You have a limit of two jugs/$30 per household. After rebate, you're looking at $20 for 10 quarts of high-quality motor oil. It cost Hyundai several billion dollars to learn that in some motors, they should use 5W-30 instead of 0/5W-20 because fuel dilution is so bad after 7500 miles that rod bearings seize and the connecting rods exit through the side of the block. The Theta II 2.4 in my 2018 Santa Fe Sport came with a 5W-20 oil filler cap. There is a TSB from Hyundai who clearly says not to use 5W-20, ever, only 5W-30. Even sites like Mobil1.com and Castrol.com, even Pennzoil.com recommend 5W-30 for my vehicle. This motor is a non-Turbo GDI and dilutes fuel like crazy. I don't go more than 5K miles on an OCI, and when I drain it, I can smell the nasty fuel mixed in there. One time I went 6K miles on a dealer synthetic blend, and the smell from draining the oil stayed with me for a few days. I couldn't shake it. It's not worth taking chances for a 0.05% fuel economy that she might never even get. I run 0W-20 in our Sonata, but one has an MPI/GDI dual injection naturally aspirated engine. The GDI doesn't kick in unless I'm in lean-burn mode cruising on the highway. Because of that, it's a very peppy car. A 2.5L MPI motor coupled to an 8-speed automatic can be very snappy
I'll look for the Edge EP, and I was mistaken she takes 5W-20 but running 5W-30 makes sense. I run 0W-40 in my daily driver/winter driver and 5W-40 in my summer fun race car thing, going a little heavier in some situations is certainly warranted and it sure is warranted in her car. I didn't know GDI had poor atomization, I thought the whole super high pressure injection meant better atomization!
Alright, semi-successful trip. Mobil 1 5W-30 EP High Mileage is all they had for 5W-30 EP so that's what I got, she's almost 'high mileage' (since when was 75K high mileage?!?) so whatever lol. Fram Ultra filter, acquired. 75-140 'bag bottle' of Valvoline full synth gear oil, I guess they sell gear oil like they do milk now...in a bag so that's a little different. They had regular bottles too but this looks easier to handle up into the right place to get it all over myself while I fill the PTU, and I checked the cap it uses the same threads as the bottle pump I have at work so that's handy dandy as well. The only LV fluids they had were quarts of Supertech or jugs of Maxlife so I got the Maxlife and the came home and saw I already had a jug of it at home for one of my other cars I'm currently neglecting. I know from experience that her trans (well same trans as a Ford Fusion) will get almost exactly 4qt on a drain from the bottom plug, 4.5 if you pull it again after it sits overnight. Hers won't be sitting overnight so I'm confident I'll just get 4 out so I loaded both gallons into the car because I'm confident that my confidence is misplaced at the moment...along with that pesky 10mm socket.
I just replaced one of these identical PTU's on a 2.0T Fusion, not a terrible job but not something I want to do on her car on my lunch hours either. This guy I think just had bad luck or the previous owner was rough on the car, the PTU output bearing was loud like a wheel bearing starting to go bad. We'd changed the fluid in the unit about 30K miles ago and haven't noted any leaks from it since then but I only drained about 1/2 of the 1/2 qt those units hold. I'm not sure where the rest of the oil went, there was only the tiniest whiff of oil seepage around the right side axle seal. They're right under the turbo on these cars and I'm not sure how well the little airgap heat shield actually protects them. I've got some thermal blanket material, I may make a secondary heat shield for her PTU to better insulate it from heat damage. What I drained out looked and smelled pretty normal, barely any metal in it just a little in suspension my magnet collected to the side of the cup and some on the drain plug magnet. Did seem like more than normal for 30K miles though but nothing out of bounds I thought. Best I can figure is he was weeping some oil, some evaporated off from the heat, and there's just not much in there to begin with, and it was probably doomed from the last owner beating on the car.
I just replaced one of these identical PTU's on a 2.0T Fusion, not a terrible job but not something I want to do on her car on my lunch hours either. This guy I think just had bad luck or the previous owner was rough on the car, the PTU output bearing was loud like a wheel bearing starting to go bad. We'd changed the fluid in the unit about 30K miles ago and haven't noted any leaks from it since then but I only drained about 1/2 of the 1/2 qt those units hold. I'm not sure where the rest of the oil went, there was only the tiniest whiff of oil seepage around the right side axle seal. They're right under the turbo on these cars and I'm not sure how well the little airgap heat shield actually protects them. I've got some thermal blanket material, I may make a secondary heat shield for her PTU to better insulate it from heat damage. What I drained out looked and smelled pretty normal, barely any metal in it just a little in suspension my magnet collected to the side of the cup and some on the drain plug magnet. Did seem like more than normal for 30K miles though but nothing out of bounds I thought. Best I can figure is he was weeping some oil, some evaporated off from the heat, and there's just not much in there to begin with, and it was probably doomed from the last owner beating on the car.
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2006
- Messages
- 29,558
Lots of moly!!
